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Hi All,

Just wondering how I test the Hydraulic lifters in a Kohler engine that has already been dismantled.

Your help and advice would be greatly appreciated :smile:

All the best.
Neo

To my knowledge, there is no way to test the hydraulic lifers on a Kohler engine.

Thanks Rivets,

There's not much to go wrong with things is there?
Has anyone had to change any in the past?... If so what symptoms did the engine have?

Shouldn't be too hard to pull them out later with a good magnet I guess?

All the best.
Neo

Post all the model numbers and I'll try to find a service manual.

Neo7 said:

Thanks Rivets,

There's not much to go wrong with things is there?
Has anyone had to change any in the past?... If so what symptoms did the engine have?

Shouldn't be too hard to pull them out later with a good magnet I guess?

All the best.
Neo

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If interested I will look in my archives (automotive) for tips. I know that deposits and dirt are the enemy, plus seems like I remember some checking/lubrication drills for reassembly. I am surprised if the mfgr was silent in his factory repair manual.

Back in the day when I was working on cars and trucks when you couldn't adjust them anymore is when we determen they were bad or when the camshaft wore out the bottoms. If you have any question as to if they are bad or not replce them. Boy its been years since I have seen a bad any type of lifter on anything and I don't ever rember seeing a bad lifter on a small engine. I have come across bent push rods.

reynoldston said:

Back in the day when I was working on cars and trucks when you couldn't adjust them anymore is when we determen they were bad or when the camshaft wore out the bottoms. If you have any question as to if they are bad or not replce them. Boy its been years since I have seen a bad any type of lifter on anything and I don't ever rember seeing a bad lifter on a small engine. I have come across bent push rods.

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Always asking myself why bent and ejected pushrods and not knowing due to small sample size (my 1 rider), I have seen the following named as culprits (1) stuck valve ( heat /deposits in guides); (2) pushed guide (heat); ( 3) stuck lifter. Heat and bad maintenance play major roles. Chime in and help others as you guys always do. :drink:

motoman said:

Always asking myself why bent and ejected pushrods and not knowing due to small sample size (my 1 rider), I have seen the following named as culprits (1) stuck valve ( heat /deposits in guides); (2) pushed guide (heat); ( 3) stuck lifter. Heat and bad maintenance play major roles. Chime in and help others as you guys always do. :drink:

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OK I will try, Just my opinion right or wrong. The reason lifters don't have problems any more is better design, materials, and lubrication's.. Some of your modern engines use a roller on the bottom of the lifter which can go bad. Push rods can bend for all the reasons you said plus. They are just hollow tubes which can bend easy.

reynoldston said:

OK I will try, Just my opinion right or wrong. The reason lifters don't have problems any more is better design, materials, and lubrication's.. Some of your modern engines use a roller on the bottom of the lifter which can go bad. Push rods can bend for all the reasons you said plus. They are just hollow tubes which can bend easy.

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Thanks reynoldson, more from others please...:anyone:

My engine is CV23S-75579

Here's some extracts from the CV17-CV25 service manual that I have.....

Hydraulic lifter malfunction can cause Engine knocks.

Hydraulic Lifters Inspection
Check base surface of hydraulic lifters for wear or damage. If lifters need to be replaced, apply a liberal coating of Kohler lubricant to base of each new lifter before it is installed.

Bleeding Lifters
To prevent a possible bent push rod or broken rocker arm, it is important to bleed any excess oil out of lifters before they are installed.
1. Cut a 50-75 mm (2-3 in.) piece from end of an old push rod and chuck it in a drill press.
2. Lay a rag or shop towel on table of drill press and place lifter, open end up, on towel.
3. Lower chucked push rod until it contacts plunger in lifter. Slowly pump plunger 2 or 3 times to force oil out of feed hole in side of lifter.

Install Hydraulic Lifters
NOTE: Hydraulic lifters should always be installed in same position as before disassembly. Exhaust lifters are located on output shaft (oil pan) side of engine while intake lifters are located on fan side of engine. Cylinder numbers are embossed on top of crankcase and each cylinder head.
1. Refer to Disassembly/Inspection and Service for hydraulic/bleeding lifter procedures.
2. Apply camshaft lubricant to bottom surface of each lifter. Lubricate hydraulic lifters and lifter bores in crankcase with engine oil.
3. Note mark or tag identifying hydraulic lifters as either intake or exhaust and cylinder 1 or cylinder 2. Install
hydraulic lifters into their appropriate locations in crankcase. Do not use a magnet.
4. If breather reeds and stops were removed from crankcase, reinstall them at this time and secure with screw. Torque screw to 4.0 Nｷm (35 in. lb.).


Good info but no word of how to test. ....But what's the problem with a magnet? ... or are Kohler trying to make some money on their Hydraulic Valve Lifter Tool (25 761 38-S)

Thanks Guys.
Neo

Problems with hydraulic lifters is usually a ticking noise coming from the engine.
A lot usually diagnose a cam lobe causing the problem but its the lifter ticking due to dirty oil.
Strip the lifter and squeeze the old oil out as best you can.
then fill the lifter with fresh oil.
The ticking noise is common on the command single cylinder engine thats about 16 hp fitted to the dixon 4516 ztr.
Used to get it alot on car engines aswell.

pugaltitude said:

Problems with hydraulic lifters is usually a ticking noise coming from the engine.
A lot usually diagnose a cam lobe causing the problem but its the lifter ticking due to dirty oil.
Strip the lifter and squeeze the old oil out as best you can.
then fill the lifter with fresh oil.
The ticking noise is common on the command single cylinder engine thats about 16 hp fitted to the dixon 4516 ztr.
Used to get it alot on car engines aswell.

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Great tip pugaltitude.... Thanks.

neo7, well on line nothing specific on kohler hydraulic lifters, but lots on the basic device. Very ingenious and MACHINED INTERNALLY TO .0002" which is smaller than oil filter screening! The message is that dirt , moisture, varnish kills h-lifters or makes 'em sick. Some other stuff you probably know.

don't swap them round
best not to replace unless cam is replaced
you can replace the inner piston if the outer is ok ( mated to the engine bore) if part is avail.
you should be able to disassemble and clean lifters of varnish/debris
changing valve length (as in grinding ) skimming head, new valve seats, new pushrods, may require new preload adj on lifters
plenty of car and aftermarket basics online on how to set preload for adj and non adj valve rockers

Let me know if you are interested in more if this forum cannot give you specifics for your engine

motoman said:

don't swap them round

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I wish I knew this before I took two of them out the other day :ashamed:

One was inlet the other was exhaust.... are the two lifter different in any way?....Any signs that might tell me which one was which?

Thanks Motorman.:thumbsup:

All the best.
Neo

The hydraulic lifter on a CV23S are all the same and can be interchanged.

What a relief.... Thanks Rivets :thumbsup:

Neo7 said:

I wish I knew this before I took two of them out the other day :ashamed:

One was inlet the other was exhaust.... are the two lifter different in any way?....Any signs that might tell me which one was which?

Thanks Motorman.:thumbsup:

All the best.
Neo

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Looking at various makes the ex and in lifters look alike. I believe the caution of interchanging is just to keep run-in parts together.
Kohler has a great color diagram of their basic lifter on their site, but the operation and maintenance is missing. If you need to identify which is which look at the OD of the lifter for marks and try to find the same marks on the lifter bore(s).

motoman said:

If you need to identify which is which look at the OD of the lifter for marks and try to find the same marks on the lifter bore(s).

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Thanks... I'll give that a go :smile: