The flywheel teeth do not line up with the starter teeth. If I turn flywheel to allow teeth alignment then cranks right up and runs great. Starter, battery everything else checks out
#2
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
How much do you have to turn the flywheel ????? An inch or so ????
The starter gear should slam into the flywheel gear and engage when the key is turned to start. Maybe the starter is defective.
#5
Boobala
Sounds to me like it's time for a valve adjustment, if the teeth weren't lining up, you wouldn't get it started ( unless a bunch of teeth were missing from the flywheel ring-gear ) doubtful ... anyway it wont hurt to adjust the valves ...... I am of course assuming it's an OHV engine.......... keep us up-dated .
#6
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Try some graphite or something on the Gear spindle... WD-40 might do the trick and then work the gear up and down by hand...... It might need to be taken off and cleaned very well......
As John & Bou said, the Bendex ( spiral cut in the starter shaft ) should allow the starter gear to rotate enough to engage the teeth properly.
If not then the starter is weak, the connections are dirty/ corroded , the bendex is dry or worn out or the gear itself may need replacing .
The gear, bendex are replacable as a unit or individual pieces.
All mowers have a flywheel key.
So do you still have the old starter ?
There are a lot of different starters and in particular starter gears.
If you have fitted one with the wrong gear then it will not engage properly.
A flywheel stops any old place and the starter gear has to accomodate this by turning a little when they engage.
The flywheel does not stop at an exact position so that the flywheel & starter teeth will be in line with each other.
The new and old starter are identical. Same oem denso starter. Part number was on side of old one so matchingwas easy. By the way the opd starter did same as new old.
The Denso part number is for the starter less the Bendex & pinion gear.
The Briggs number if it has one includes the above items.
There are two different sized gears 14 & 16 teeth.
If the power supply to the starter is low then it will not be able to force the starter to engage with the flywheel.
This is an AMPs problem , not a Voltage one so you need a clamp meter to test it.
OTOH get a good battery and jump directly to the starter.
I like to put the + on the starter first then hook the - to the oil drain plug.
If the starter engages & spins the engine then your problem is in the mowers wiring.
If not then have a good look at both the starter and the teeth on the flywheel.
not sure what the bendix looks like on my gxv530 honda engine. over 250 cranking amps so don't think that is a problem. As i indicated before if I turn flywheel just a little it cranks right up.
OK you can disregard the previous post.
You have a throw out solenoid starter.
Only 2 reasons why that will not engage.
Buggered coils/contacts inside the solenoid .
Insufficient power available.
Other things like twisted or distorted mountings but generally it is electrical .
Grab your car / truck battery and jump directly from it to the starter as mentioned before.
Water gets inside the heavy power cables on ZTR's and the wires corrode away to nothing under the insulation.
Thanks ok do I disconnect the postive from battery to starter solnoid and the negative that goes to fuse then to starter before jump starting? Wiring could be issue since the mower is 8-9 years old.
No, leave the mowers wiring alone.
Hook the + up first because when the circuit is completed you will get a substantial spark, which is why you use a solenoid in the first place.
It is all too easy when this happens to jerk and put the lead directly on the starter case thus dead shorting the battery.
If you shake a bit making the ground contact it does not matter as everything around the drain bolt is also ground so no chance of a short.
If you want to start the mower, turn it on first then jump the starter.
I do this a dozen times a week to start customers mowers with flat batteries
