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Husqvarna RZ5426 won’t crank
#1
Kswigington
Kswigington
My mower will not crank. I can hear the solenoid engaging when the key is turned to the start position.
Background- I have replaced the solenoid, pto switch, ignition switch. In the beginning it kept blowing the 20amp fuse when the key was turned. I completely removed the wiring harness and reassembled. It’s not blowing the fuse anymore, still won’t crank.
I’ve also checked resistance in electric clutch, removed flywheel to ensure the stator is intact. Jumped the starter both on and off the mower, it works. I jumped all safety switches to “bypass” them, which in turn gets power to solenoid. I can hear solenoid engage when key is turned to start, so I know switches aren’t the problem. I’ve also jumped from truck battery to mower battery to make sure I had adequate voltage.
im at a loss. I believe it has to be within the actual motor wiring.. it’s like it’s getting a “kill” signal somehow.
Any suggestions?
Background- I have replaced the solenoid, pto switch, ignition switch. In the beginning it kept blowing the 20amp fuse when the key was turned. I completely removed the wiring harness and reassembled. It’s not blowing the fuse anymore, still won’t crank.
I’ve also checked resistance in electric clutch, removed flywheel to ensure the stator is intact. Jumped the starter both on and off the mower, it works. I jumped all safety switches to “bypass” them, which in turn gets power to solenoid. I can hear solenoid engage when key is turned to start, so I know switches aren’t the problem. I’ve also jumped from truck battery to mower battery to make sure I had adequate voltage.
im at a loss. I believe it has to be within the actual motor wiring.. it’s like it’s getting a “kill” signal somehow.
Any suggestions?
#2
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Are you sure you are hearing the starter solenoid click and not a relay or the carb solenoid ?
Does the engine turn over by hand ?
Try without the spark plug(s) , does the starter spin
yes = compression problem
no = siezed engine or electrical problem
Jump from mower battery - post to a good ground on the engine & try the key
Jump from the mower battery + directly to the + terminal on the starter
Do the same with the ground jumper in place .
Do te same with your truck battery direct
Let us know what happens
Does the engine turn over by hand ?
Try without the spark plug(s) , does the starter spin
yes = compression problem
no = siezed engine or electrical problem
Jump from mower battery - post to a good ground on the engine & try the key
Jump from the mower battery + directly to the + terminal on the starter
Do the same with the ground jumper in place .
Do te same with your truck battery direct
Let us know what happens
#3
Kswigington
I have jumped the starter and the motor turns over fine, but will not actually start. However, without jumping the starter, it will not crank with the key. The engine can be turned by hand..
it acts as if a kill switch is grounded or something.. I have removed and inspected the entire wiring harness. I’m almost certain the wiring issue is on the motor side, and not the mower side.
Kswigington
Yes, it is getting power back to solenoid from ignition switch.Are you sure you are hearing the starter solenoid click and not a relay or the carb solenoid ?
Does the engine turn over by hand ?
Try without the spark plug(s) , does the starter spin
yes = compression problem
no = siezed engine or electrical problem
Jump from mower battery - post to a good ground on the engine & try the key
Jump from the mower battery + directly to the + terminal on the starter
Do the same with the ground jumper in place .
Do te same with your truck battery direct
Let us know what happens
I have jumped the starter and the motor turns over fine, but will not actually start. However, without jumping the starter, it will not crank with the key. The engine can be turned by hand..
it acts as if a kill switch is grounded or something.. I have removed and inspected the entire wiring harness. I’m almost certain the wiring issue is on the motor side, and not the mower side.
#4
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
OK it works like this,
I ask specific questions because I need specific answers to then in order to make a diagnosis
Yeah done that does not work for me
If you are not willing to co-operate then I can not help
Remember you have the mower in front of you I have only words on a screen and 11 years of doing repairs
I ask specific questions because I need specific answers to then in order to make a diagnosis
Yeah done that does not work for me
If you are not willing to co-operate then I can not help
Remember you have the mower in front of you I have only words on a screen and 11 years of doing repairs
#5
Kswigington
I appreciate your attempt to help, I really do. And I certainly realize it is hard to diagnose a machine without seeing it..
but I did give background on everything I’ve done and checked. You then proceeded to ask if I was sure the solenoid was engaging, after I said I put a new one on, it was getting juice back to it through the safety switches and I could hear it engage. So I simply responded “yes, it was engaging”…
You then lead me to a compression issue.. which I had already said the I jumped the starter on the mower.. indicating that the starter and mower cranks, when jumped.. but I answered you there by saying it was good.
then you give me a sequence of jumping the starter..(already have multiple ways) The one thing you did suggest was ensuring/troubleshooting the ground. I did not respond specifically to that portion. But yes, has been done.
pretty much everything you suggested are things I’ve already checked… and I explained that upfront. But I was in no way rude or ungrateful to your reply.. just simply reaffirming that the issues you mentioned were good. So I’m very confused by the attitude and rudeness? I was simply answering your questions. And explaining that I have ruled out everything on the mower side as far as wiring and switches… thinking it must be on the motor side.. I’m just confused which part of your suggestions I didn’t give a specific answer to.. (minus the ground troubleshooting) I also have about 18 years working on various equipment, so I wouldn’t be asking here if it was a simple compression issue, seized motor or grounding issue. Would’ve figured that out long ago.
Again, I do appreciate your attempt to help. But I’d prefer to not be barked at for simply answering your questions…that I had already answered in the initial post. Thanks anyway.
Kswigington
I’m a little confused here…OK it works like this,
I ask specific questions because I need specific answers to then in order to make a diagnosis
Yeah done that does not work for me
If you are not willing to co-operate then I can not help
Remember you have the mower in front of you I have only words on a screen and 11 years of doing repairs
I appreciate your attempt to help, I really do. And I certainly realize it is hard to diagnose a machine without seeing it..
but I did give background on everything I’ve done and checked. You then proceeded to ask if I was sure the solenoid was engaging, after I said I put a new one on, it was getting juice back to it through the safety switches and I could hear it engage. So I simply responded “yes, it was engaging”…
You then lead me to a compression issue.. which I had already said the I jumped the starter on the mower.. indicating that the starter and mower cranks, when jumped.. but I answered you there by saying it was good.
then you give me a sequence of jumping the starter..(already have multiple ways) The one thing you did suggest was ensuring/troubleshooting the ground. I did not respond specifically to that portion. But yes, has been done.
pretty much everything you suggested are things I’ve already checked… and I explained that upfront. But I was in no way rude or ungrateful to your reply.. just simply reaffirming that the issues you mentioned were good. So I’m very confused by the attitude and rudeness? I was simply answering your questions. And explaining that I have ruled out everything on the mower side as far as wiring and switches… thinking it must be on the motor side.. I’m just confused which part of your suggestions I didn’t give a specific answer to.. (minus the ground troubleshooting) I also have about 18 years working on various equipment, so I wouldn’t be asking here if it was a simple compression issue, seized motor or grounding issue. Would’ve figured that out long ago.
Again, I do appreciate your attempt to help. But I’d prefer to not be barked at for simply answering your questions…that I had already answered in the initial post. Thanks anyway.
#6
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Jumped the starter ?
bridged the terminals on the solenoid
or
jumped directly from the battery to the starter ?
Not the same thing
Every one has their own way of doing a diagnosis
And I presented you mine .
The order is important in the diagnostics.
From our original post there was a lot of stuff that has nothing to do with failure to start, like the PTO clutch & alternator so the assumption is you are a novice with no idea about mower electrics .
Juice to the solenoid ? Trigger wire ? battery wire ? and what voltage ? 12 .5 V , anything under 10 and it won't trip
I can hear the solenoid engaging , hear what a click ? relays click, fuel solenoid also clicks how do I know what you are hearing ?
You said the engine won't crank = engine does not revolve
Then you say you tested the starter on & off the engine
So tested on the engine how?
We have no idea of the level of expertese of the person posting the question so we ask for things to be done, in a specific order so potential problems can be ruled out .
Reading your original post I am not sure if you really mean no crank or meant Wont fire
Your original post made no sense which is why you were asked to do those tests
Then when they get answered a new set of tests get prescribed
Now I am sorry if you find this offensive and you do not want to repeat any thing you have already done but unfortunately that is the way it works
Got any idea just how many times people have come here with a no crank situation, replaced hundreds of dollars worth of parts till some one finally asks "can you turn the engine over by hand ?"and it is revealed that the engine is siezed
Or how many times some one has said "won't crank" and 3 pages latter we find out that they really mean't was wont fire ?
Or how many times people swear blind that their battery is good and when they do a voltage drop est we find that the battery drops down to 2V under load so it is stuffed .
So you see why I and most others are a bit confused
If the starter tested OK on the engine then the engine has to be cranking
Now if you just want to sit there and cherry pick from all of the pet problems that those who do not have a methodical approach will present then tell me now and I will pop you on the ignore list & just hope you get your mower sorted before the season ends .
Choice is yours because it is your problem not mine.
My 5 mowers all work quite fine and as the season is nearly over I am now getting into my backlog .
bridged the terminals on the solenoid
or
jumped directly from the battery to the starter ?
Not the same thing
Every one has their own way of doing a diagnosis
And I presented you mine .
The order is important in the diagnostics.
From our original post there was a lot of stuff that has nothing to do with failure to start, like the PTO clutch & alternator so the assumption is you are a novice with no idea about mower electrics .
Juice to the solenoid ? Trigger wire ? battery wire ? and what voltage ? 12 .5 V , anything under 10 and it won't trip
I can hear the solenoid engaging , hear what a click ? relays click, fuel solenoid also clicks how do I know what you are hearing ?
You said the engine won't crank = engine does not revolve
Then you say you tested the starter on & off the engine
So tested on the engine how?
We have no idea of the level of expertese of the person posting the question so we ask for things to be done, in a specific order so potential problems can be ruled out .
Reading your original post I am not sure if you really mean no crank or meant Wont fire
Your original post made no sense which is why you were asked to do those tests
Then when they get answered a new set of tests get prescribed
Now I am sorry if you find this offensive and you do not want to repeat any thing you have already done but unfortunately that is the way it works
Got any idea just how many times people have come here with a no crank situation, replaced hundreds of dollars worth of parts till some one finally asks "can you turn the engine over by hand ?"and it is revealed that the engine is siezed
Or how many times some one has said "won't crank" and 3 pages latter we find out that they really mean't was wont fire ?
Or how many times people swear blind that their battery is good and when they do a voltage drop est we find that the battery drops down to 2V under load so it is stuffed .
So you see why I and most others are a bit confused
If the starter tested OK on the engine then the engine has to be cranking
Now if you just want to sit there and cherry pick from all of the pet problems that those who do not have a methodical approach will present then tell me now and I will pop you on the ignore list & just hope you get your mower sorted before the season ends .
Choice is yours because it is your problem not mine.
My 5 mowers all work quite fine and as the season is nearly over I am now getting into my backlog .
#7
Kswigington
Kswigington
Like I said, thank you for taking the time to respond and your attempt to help. Thanks again.