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Husqvarna RZ4824F Wiring Problem
#1
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
Hi, I recently purchased a 2012 Husqvarna RZ4824F with the Kawasaki FR730V-AS13-R on it. My friend was starting it by jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver. He told me all it needed was a new key switch. I replaced the key switch and nothing. I started checking the wiring harness and noticed some things were unplugged or disconnected. When i checked the only wiring diagram I could find there was a wire going to the solenoid that i didn't recognize. It's a black wire with a small white stripe on it. No idea where it goes. And I found a solid black wire in another part of the harness that looks like a ground and the diagram said connect that to the engine block. I would really appreciate any help with this, Thanks.
#2
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
If you bought the mower new and got an owners manual with it you will find the wiring diagram in the back of it.
Now if you did what 99% of owners do, remove the keys taped to the middle of the book then toss it out without so much as reading a single page then you can down load another from Husqvarna for free .
Plain black will be grounds and they can be anywhere
The starter solenoid trigger while should be Yellow
When faced with an unknown wiring mess I start by checking the solenoid by jumping from the battery cable to the trigger wire on the solenoid base .
No joy then I double check by running a jumper from ground to the metal base on single trigger solenoid or the other trigger terminal if the solenoid has 2 wires ( yours should only have 1 )
IF that works next step is removing the plug at the key switch and putting a jumper between the B & S positions .
Remember the plug will be a mirror image of the switch so double check the colours before using the jumper
After that it is following the START circuit which are all yellow wires and jump them at every switch till the starter spins
To check the battery has enough balls to spin the engine run some jump start cables from the battery + to the starter +
Engine spins = Stuffed power cable
If the engine does not spin then run another from the battery - to the engine
Engine spins = stuffed ground cable
If the engine does not spin then repeat from your car / truck battery
Engine spins = stuffed battery
engine does not spin = stuffed starter .
Now if you did what 99% of owners do, remove the keys taped to the middle of the book then toss it out without so much as reading a single page then you can down load another from Husqvarna for free .
Plain black will be grounds and they can be anywhere
The starter solenoid trigger while should be Yellow
When faced with an unknown wiring mess I start by checking the solenoid by jumping from the battery cable to the trigger wire on the solenoid base .
No joy then I double check by running a jumper from ground to the metal base on single trigger solenoid or the other trigger terminal if the solenoid has 2 wires ( yours should only have 1 )
IF that works next step is removing the plug at the key switch and putting a jumper between the B & S positions .
Remember the plug will be a mirror image of the switch so double check the colours before using the jumper
After that it is following the START circuit which are all yellow wires and jump them at every switch till the starter spins
To check the battery has enough balls to spin the engine run some jump start cables from the battery + to the starter +
Engine spins = Stuffed power cable
If the engine does not spin then run another from the battery - to the engine
Engine spins = stuffed ground cable
If the engine does not spin then repeat from your car / truck battery
Engine spins = stuffed battery
engine does not spin = stuffed starter .
#3
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
Thank you for the help. The reason I asked about the Black with White stripe wire that comes out of the harness with all the solenoid wires is because I can start the engine with the key switch. I thought the black/white wire might be some kind of ground wire as i have taken all the safety switches off and performed continuity tests on them and they checked out good. But when I release the Brake or pull one of the Control handles in to move the mower the engine will shut off. I tried grounding the black/white wire to the frame at the solenoid and it still cuts off when i release the break or handles. Not much info on the internet about this and most of it says bad safety switch, but they all check out good and the brake switch I replaced as it was bad. Thanks again.If you bought the mower new and got an owners manual with it you will find the wiring diagram in the back of it.
Now if you did what 99% of owners do, remove the keys taped to the middle of the book then toss it out without so much as reading a single page then you can down load another from Husqvarna for free .
Plain black will be grounds and they can be anywhere
The starter solenoid trigger while should be Yellow
When faced with an unknown wiring mess I start by checking the solenoid by jumping from the battery cable to the trigger wire on the solenoid base .
No joy then I double check by running a jumper from ground to the metal base on single trigger solenoid or the other trigger terminal if the solenoid has 2 wires ( yours should only have 1 )
IF that works next step is removing the plug at the key switch and putting a jumper between the B & S positions .
Remember the plug will be a mirror image of the switch so double check the colours before using the jumper
After that it is following the START circuit which are all yellow wires and jump them at every switch till the starter spins
To check the battery has enough balls to spin the engine run some jump start cables from the battery + to the starter +
Engine spins = Stuffed power cable
If the engine does not spin then run another from the battery - to the engine
Engine spins = stuffed ground cable
If the engine does not spin then repeat from your car / truck battery
Engine spins = stuffed battery
engine does not spin = stuffed starter .
#4
StarTech
StarTech
Most likely either the seat switch has failed, the seat connector is unplugged ( many have a shorting strip in them to prevent operators from simply unplugging them), or someone has jumper-ed the seat switch connector. It is meant to be a open circuit whenever someone is on the seat.
#5
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
Thanks for the info. I will check that out.Most likely either the seat switch has failed, the seat connector is unplugged ( many have a shorting strip in them to prevent operators from simply unplugging them), or someone has jumper-ed the seat switch connector. It is meant to be a open circuit whenever someone is on the seat.
#6
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
Update: I tried using a jumper wire on the seat switch and no change. I took off the jumper wire and put it back on the seat switch. Now I start the mower and engine runs and idles fine. I released the parking brake and the engine kept running fine but before it would cut the motor off. But when I pulled the control arms in the engine tried to shut off again. I have tried pulling each control arm in separately and it didn't matter which arm I pulled in the engine would try to shut off. Not sure what is going on with this thing but ideas would be helpful.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
if the seat switch has a 4 prong flat plug it can not be jumped at the female side because of the tamper proof shorting strip Star has already alerted you to
Did you read your owners manual ?
Do you understand English ?
To protect the braking system if you try to move with the brake engaged then the engine shuts down ( it is in the owners manual )
So your brake switch is wrong, wired wrong , defective or the wiring to & from it is bad
B
bertsmobile1
Have you actually looked at the wiring diagram yet ?Thank you for the help. The reason I asked about the Black with White stripe wire that comes out of the harness with all the solenoid wires is because I can start the engine with the key switch. I thought the black/white wire might be some kind of ground wire as i have taken all the safety switches off and performed continuity tests on them and they checked out good. But when I release the Brake or pull one of the Control handles in to move the mower the engine will shut off. I tried grounding the black/white wire to the frame at the solenoid and it still cuts off when i release the break or handles. Not much info on the internet about this and most of it says bad safety switch, but they all check out good and the brake switch I replaced as it was bad. Thanks again.
if the seat switch has a 4 prong flat plug it can not be jumped at the female side because of the tamper proof shorting strip Star has already alerted you to
Did you read your owners manual ?
Do you understand English ?
To protect the braking system if you try to move with the brake engaged then the engine shuts down ( it is in the owners manual )
So your brake switch is wrong, wired wrong , defective or the wiring to & from it is bad
#8
B
Bat57
It has a 2 prong safety switch, not 4.
Did you read the owners manual?
Can you understand and read English?
I have looked at the wiring diagram. Have you before you give advise and criticize someone?
The brake handle is all the way down and not touching the switch the motor stays running, switch is new. motor runs fine until you try to move with brake off.
This must be beyond your level of expertise , so you don't need to respond to any more of my posts now or in the future.
B
Bat57
Did you read everything I wrote about the problem I have with the mower?Have you actually looked at the wiring diagram yet ?
if the seat switch has a 4 prong flat plug it can not be jumped at the female side because of the tamper proof shorting strip Star has already alerted you to
Did you read your owners manual ?
Do you understand English ?
To protect the braking system if you try to move with the brake engaged then the engine shuts down ( it is in the owners manual )
So your brake switch is wrong, wired wrong , defective or the wiring to & from it is bad
It has a 2 prong safety switch, not 4.
Did you read the owners manual?
Can you understand and read English?
I have looked at the wiring diagram. Have you before you give advise and criticize someone?
The brake handle is all the way down and not touching the switch the motor stays running, switch is new. motor runs fine until you try to move with brake off.
This must be beyond your level of expertise , so you don't need to respond to any more of my posts now or in the future.
#9
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
1) Yes I read your post and wrote a reasonably comprehensive answer to your no start problem
2) the wiring diagram I found does not show a B & W wire either but does show a 2 terminal seat switch
3) Husqvarna is known for making changes to their wiring , sending out dealers updates but not changing the printed owners manual
3) Husqvarna is the only company that fits the and tamper switches & I have found them on mowers and not shown in the wiring diagrams
5) Yes I have read the manuals, done the trade courses got the certificates and run a repair business
6) here are a lot of people who come here where English is their 2nd 3rd 4th or 5 th language so they may or may not understand what is being aid to them
7) you are there with the mower I am around 10,000 miles away so it is a bit hard to see your mower from here
8) yes I looked at the wiring diagrams in fact I checked 11 of them looking for that B & W wire . however I can read & understand them it would appear that you have difficulties or you would have seen that the lap bar switches & seat switch & brake switches & PTO switch are all connected to one another via the brown wire which is connected to the magneto kill wire ( although that is not shown past the engine pig tail )
9) you got the mower second hand with faulty wiring & replaced the key switch , without trying to do any diagnosis, we have no idea if you bought the correct switch or not as you did not post the numbers nor do we know if any or all of the switches fitted are right or wrong as the switches come both NO & NC and on more than one occasion I have found an owners bought the cheapest of two switches which of course was wrong .
However as I do have manners and do not impose where I am not wanted then I shall wish you all the very best & happy mowing
2) the wiring diagram I found does not show a B & W wire either but does show a 2 terminal seat switch
3) Husqvarna is known for making changes to their wiring , sending out dealers updates but not changing the printed owners manual
3) Husqvarna is the only company that fits the and tamper switches & I have found them on mowers and not shown in the wiring diagrams
5) Yes I have read the manuals, done the trade courses got the certificates and run a repair business
6) here are a lot of people who come here where English is their 2nd 3rd 4th or 5 th language so they may or may not understand what is being aid to them
7) you are there with the mower I am around 10,000 miles away so it is a bit hard to see your mower from here
8) yes I looked at the wiring diagrams in fact I checked 11 of them looking for that B & W wire . however I can read & understand them it would appear that you have difficulties or you would have seen that the lap bar switches & seat switch & brake switches & PTO switch are all connected to one another via the brown wire which is connected to the magneto kill wire ( although that is not shown past the engine pig tail )
9) you got the mower second hand with faulty wiring & replaced the key switch , without trying to do any diagnosis, we have no idea if you bought the correct switch or not as you did not post the numbers nor do we know if any or all of the switches fitted are right or wrong as the switches come both NO & NC and on more than one occasion I have found an owners bought the cheapest of two switches which of course was wrong .
However as I do have manners and do not impose where I am not wanted then I shall wish you all the very best & happy mowing
#10
StarTech
StarTech
It doesn't matter if you have a 2 prong or 4 prong both style of connectors can have shorting strip.
Find the brown wire at the brake switch that comes from the lap bars and temporary remove it and test. There also maybe a second brown wire coming in from the PTO switch you may try each one.
I suspect you a wiring problem at the brake switch as seems you a couple poles swapped.
If I am correct this switch has two NO poles and one NC pole.
NO = normally open
NC = normally closed
Since we don't what was done before you got the mower anything is possible.Update: I tried using a jumper wire on the seat switch and no change. I took off the jumper wire and put it back on the seat switch. Now I start the mower and engine runs and idles fine. I released the parking brake and the engine kept running fine but before it would cut the motor off. But when I pulled the control arms in the engine tried to shut off again. I have tried pulling each control arm in separately and it didn't matter which arm I pulled in the engine would try to shut off. Not sure what is going on with this thing but ideas would be helpful.
Find the brown wire at the brake switch that comes from the lap bars and temporary remove it and test. There also maybe a second brown wire coming in from the PTO switch you may try each one.
I suspect you a wiring problem at the brake switch as seems you a couple poles swapped.
If I am correct this switch has two NO poles and one NC pole.
NO = normally open
NC = normally closed
#11
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
I have had several threads on here and in each and every one of them I have never stated or Implied that I am a Certified Small Engine Mechanic or have run a business repairing mowers. So I do not come on here and dismiss advice I get from others like they don't know anything and are stupid. As I do have experience working on vehicle engines, and small engines with electronics experience on reading schematics I feel I can say I am not a beginner. The way you came across in the post before this one was Aragant and Insulting. You could have easily said I want to help but i am having trouble understanding what you are having trouble with. So let me ask these questions so that I can better understand what you are having trouble with understanding my answers. I bought this mower used from a friend and he said all it needed was a new key switch. I have replaced all the parts on here using Husqvarna part numbers. He had been crossing the solenoid to start the motor. The new switch didn't work to start the motor. That's when I noticed the wiring problems. I checked all the Safety switches for continuity and found the Brake switch was bad but found one of the control arms Safety switches was cracked pretty bad at the prong that touches the control arm. Replaced it as well. Then I took the wiring harness off and did a continuity test on every wire from the starter switch to the PTO switch and from there to the rest of the length of all the wires. Everything good, no breaks in the wires anywhere. Replaced the solenoid with a new 3 post one per parts lookup. Motor stars and runs fine now even when I disengage the parking braking brake but as soon as as I move one of the control arms inward the engine tries to shut off. As someone that is married to a woman that English is not her native or first language I understand how that is. when you ask someone that, that is on an English speaking website the way you did it comes across as very rude an offensive. My wife speaks and reads and writes English fluently but has a little accent from her native language, she still gets asked if she can speak English good because of it. And she is a college graduate. So this is the Model number and the parts I have replaced on it just to get it to start with a key. I appreciate all the advice from the people on here I get because I know I can never know everything about everything. Thanks. MODEL- 967003801-00 (2012-02) Ignition switch-539107541/ 532175566 Brake switch-539113792 Interlock switch-532109553/ 539101080 Solenoid-539101714 As I appreciate everyone's help I hope this information helps you understand what i am explaining on here as I know you nor anyone else on here can see the actual mower I am talking about. If you decide not to answer then have a good day and continued success in helping others.1) Yes I read your post and wrote a reasonably comprehensive answer to your no start problem
2) the wiring diagram I found does not show a B & W wire either but does show a 2 terminal seat switch
3) Husqvarna is known for making changes to their wiring , sending out dealers updates but not changing the printed owners manual
3) Husqvarna is the only company that fits the and tamper switches & I have found them on mowers and not shown in the wiring diagrams
5) Yes I have read the manuals, done the trade courses got the certificates and run a repair business
6) here are a lot of people who come here where English is their 2nd 3rd 4th or 5 th language so they may or may not understand what is being aid to them
7) you are there with the mower I am around 10,000 miles away so it is a bit hard to see your mower from here
8) yes I looked at the wiring diagrams in fact I checked 11 of them looking for that B & W wire . however I can read & understand them it would appear that you have difficulties or you would have seen that the lap bar switches & seat switch & brake switches & PTO switch are all connected to one another via the brown wire which is connected to the magneto kill wire ( although that is not shown past the engine pig tail )
9) you got the mower second hand with faulty wiring & replaced the key switch , without trying to do any diagnosis, we have no idea if you bought the correct switch or not as you did not post the numbers nor do we know if any or all of the switches fitted are right or wrong as the switches come both NO & NC and on more than one occasion I have found an owners bought the cheapest of two switches which of course was wrong .
However as I do have manners and do not impose where I am not wanted then I shall wish you all the very best & happy mowing
#12
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
Thank you for the information. I removed the wiring harness and checked each wire individually for continuity from the starter switch connector to the PTO connector and from there all the way to the end of each wire at the other connectors in the harness. All wires were good. No breaks anywhere and continuity through each wire. There are only four poles on the brake switch that Husqvarna uses on this model. Brake switch-539113792. (2-NO and 2-NC)It doesn't matter if you have a 2 prong or 4 prong both style of connectors can have shorting strip.
Since we don't what was done before you got the mower anything is possible.
Find the brown wire at the brake switch that comes from the lap bars and temporary remove it and test. There also maybe a second brown wire coming in from the PTO switch you may try each one.
I suspect you a wiring problem at the brake switch as seems you a couple poles swapped.
View attachment 66183
If I am correct this switch has two NO poles and one NC pole.
NO = normally open
NC = normally closed
#13
StarTech
StarTech
You mistaking the number terminals for poles. Now if the switch don't look like the image I posted then you have the wrong switch. You should have a six terminal connector.
The 2 pole 4 terminal switch looks like this.
The 2 pole 4 terminal switch looks like this.
#14
StarTech
StarTech
Wiring Schematic for the 967003801-00
#15
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
Hi. I appreciate the help. Ok, I meant 4 terminal switch. I have the same switch in the picture you sent. Part# 539113792. The Control Arms use a 4 terminal switch as well. Part#532109533/ 539101080. I replaced one of those because of condition but the other one tested good. I am going to try and add some pictures of the wiring connectors and the brake switch. B switch is for Brake.You mistaking the number terminals for poles. Now if the switch don't look like the image I posted then you have the wrong switch. You should have a six terminal connector.
View attachment 66188
The 2 pole 4 terminal switch looks like this.
View attachment 66190
Attachments
#16
StarTech
StarTech
Houston we have a problem.
Your wiring is not matching the model number given. Also the 539113792 switch when I look it up here and on the internet all are showing a 3 pole switch and not a two pole switch. Btw I have a couple of the switches setup for my next distributor order as they are the same as the CUB ones I need but at a quarter of the price.
Look like rewiring is needed so it matches the wiring diagram. This depends how good you are at following the wiring schematic and have appropriate wire, terminals, and housings or you just replace the harness and install the correct switch.
Harness is PN 515980501 > 580798101.
Your wiring is not matching the model number given. Also the 539113792 switch when I look it up here and on the internet all are showing a 3 pole switch and not a two pole switch. Btw I have a couple of the switches setup for my next distributor order as they are the same as the CUB ones I need but at a quarter of the price.
Look like rewiring is needed so it matches the wiring diagram. This depends how good you are at following the wiring schematic and have appropriate wire, terminals, and housings or you just replace the harness and install the correct switch.
Harness is PN 515980501 > 580798101.
#17
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
I am not sure what is going on because it is the same part number you sent me in the last post that it should be. Thanks for the info.Houston we have a problem.
Your wiring is not matching the model number given. Also the 539113792 switch when I look it up here and on the internet all are showing a 3 pole switch and not a two pole switch. Btw I have a couple of the switches setup for my next distributor order as they are the same as the CUB ones I need but at a quarter of the price.
Look like rewiring is needed so it matches the wiring diagram. This depends how good you are at following the wiring schematic and have appropriate wire, terminals, and housings or you just replace the harness and install the correct switch.
Harness is PN 515980501 > 580798101.
#18
StarTech
StarTech
Well I can't just ordering a $6.50 switch and pay $16 shipping + the below minimum surcharge to get it in from the Husqvarna distributor just to prove that it is indeed a three pole switch.
I can't be any further help so I am dropping out of this thread.
I can't be any further help so I am dropping out of this thread.
#19
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
Thank you for all your help and the info about the wrong wiring harness. Thanks.Well I can't just ordering a $6.50 switch and pay $16 shipping + the below minimum surcharge to get it in from the Husqvarna distributor just to prove that it is indeed a three pole switch.
I can't be any further help so I am dropping out of this thread.
#20
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
I know I said I will drop out but I will add another point
With those push in safety switches, wear in the switch where it clips in plus wear in the switch plus wear in whatever pushes the plunger down can mean the plunger does not move far enough
Particularly with brake switches I put a self tapper into the end of the plunger to make it longer .
Because of their locations it is very hard to back probe them in situ so people push the plunger all the way down to test them when in practice it only goes 1/3 to 1/2 way down
Then some times there is a build up inside the switch so when it is depressed fully the crud is pushed out of the way so the switch now works again .
And remember this is not face book so we know nothing about the mower or you till we are told
So the safe assumption is the person on the other end knows absolutely nothing and dropped out of schooling after kindergarden
This deters us from using jargon that only techs understand which can result in to poster being injured because they did not understand what was posted
There are thousands of people on this forum and unless your thread goes on for a very long time I for one will never remember you as there are up to 100 posts a day most of which I skim over so you could have been here 20 times but few will remember you as we are primarily concerned about your mower problems
Australia does not have a fire arm problem so we tend to be blunt & strait forward ( very similar to Germans )
With those push in safety switches, wear in the switch where it clips in plus wear in the switch plus wear in whatever pushes the plunger down can mean the plunger does not move far enough
Particularly with brake switches I put a self tapper into the end of the plunger to make it longer .
Because of their locations it is very hard to back probe them in situ so people push the plunger all the way down to test them when in practice it only goes 1/3 to 1/2 way down
Then some times there is a build up inside the switch so when it is depressed fully the crud is pushed out of the way so the switch now works again .
And remember this is not face book so we know nothing about the mower or you till we are told
So the safe assumption is the person on the other end knows absolutely nothing and dropped out of schooling after kindergarden
This deters us from using jargon that only techs understand which can result in to poster being injured because they did not understand what was posted
There are thousands of people on this forum and unless your thread goes on for a very long time I for one will never remember you as there are up to 100 posts a day most of which I skim over so you could have been here 20 times but few will remember you as we are primarily concerned about your mower problems
Australia does not have a fire arm problem so we tend to be blunt & strait forward ( very similar to Germans )
#21
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
I appreciate the information. Thank you.I know I said I will drop out but I will add another point
With those push in safety switches, wear in the switch where it clips in plus wear in the switch plus wear in whatever pushes the plunger down can mean the plunger does not move far enough
Particularly with brake switches I put a self tapper into the end of the plunger to make it longer .
Because of their locations it is very hard to back probe them in situ so people push the plunger all the way down to test them when in practice it only goes 1/3 to 1/2 way down
Then some times there is a build up inside the switch so when it is depressed fully the crud is pushed out of the way so the switch now works again .
And remember this is not face book so we know nothing about the mower or you till we are told
So the safe assumption is the person on the other end knows absolutely nothing and dropped out of schooling after kindergarden
This deters us from using jargon that only techs understand which can result in to poster being injured because they did not understand what was posted
There are thousands of people on this forum and unless your thread goes on for a very long time I for one will never remember you as there are up to 100 posts a day most of which I skim over so you could have been here 20 times but few will remember you as we are primarily concerned about your mower problems
Australia does not have a fire arm problem so we tend to be blunt & strait forward ( very similar to Germans )
#22
B
Bat57
B
Bat57
I know it has been awhile since my post but I always like to answer those that help me on here. After doing some more research after this response you sent I finally got more information from the man I got the mower from. You were right about the wiring harness not matching up. It seems the previous owner decided ( for whatever reason ) to change the wiring harness and used one off another mower setting around. I replaced the harness with the proper one and a new brake switch. Installed and the mower works as it is supposed to now, Thank you for all your help.Houston we have a problem.
Your wiring is not matching the model number given. Also the 539113792 switch when I look it up here and on the internet all are showing a 3 pole switch and not a two pole switch. Btw I have a couple of the switches setup for my next distributor order as they are the same as the CUB ones I need but at a quarter of the price.
Look like rewiring is needed so it matches the wiring diagram. This depends how good you are at following the wiring schematic and have appropriate wire, terminals, and housings or you just replace the harness and install the correct switch.
Harness is PN 515980501 > 580798101.