PLEASE PLEASE HELP FOLKS. I was given a HUSQVARNA LTH 130 C RIDE ON - PRODUCT NUMBER 954-82-00-01...MEG ID NUMBER HE1 3H36D. When I got it the 5 spade switch was broken ( the spring starter option). It was started by turning the switch to the 2nd position then placing a wire from the positive terminal on the solenoid to the white wire terminal on the solenoid. This started it and when you turned off the switch it turned off the mower. I SHOULD HAVE LEFT IT BUT..... decided to replace the switch. I was then sent a 7 spade terminal switch from Husqvarna who insisted it was the correct one. There are 4 black wires which were already wired together in 2 pairs, One pair of black wires I connected to the G terminal on the switch, the other 2 black wires to the M terminal on the switch. The 2 black wires I have connected to the G terminal are grounded under the battery compartment along with the battery negative wire. I have connected the red wire to the B terminal, the blue wire to the L terminal and the white wire to the S terminal. The Y and A terminals are both unused.
At first the mower started great but would not switch off when I turned off the ignition. The only thing that would turn it off was by raising the mower deck lever which disconnected the black wires a the deck safety switch ?? Knowing this was wrong I then set about trying different wiring at the switch but to no avail. In the process I managed to blow the 30 amp fuse THREE TIMES before deciding to put the wiring back as described above. Now the engine turns but I have NO SPARK at the plug - even with a new plug. Could the coil have blown and if so how do I test it without any fancy tools other than a voltmeter ?? Also I am convinced the wiring through the 3 safety switches is faulty so although not recommended can someone tell me that if I put a wire directly from the S terminal on the switch to the white terminal on the solenoid, and then run a wire from the M terminal to the body. (ground) Will this bypass the safety switches and start. PLEASE PLEASE HELP GUYS. Nic, Northants, UK.
If you sent voltage to the coil even for the briefest period you will blow the module and they are not cheap.
Pull off the engine cowle and follow the thin wire back to the first plug which should hide behind the starter motor.
Disconnect it and crank the engine.
No spark = dead module.
When attempting to rewire leave this plug undone to prevent accidentally sending 12 V down the kill wire.
This wire should only ever be open circuit or earthed.
Below is 4 variations of the wiring diagram.
If you look at them you will see they are all basically the same and the connections at the Ignition & PTO switches are all the same.
On the back of your switch you will see some tiny letters that corespond to the letters shown in the diagrams but just to spell things out so there is no confusion
G = ground, earth or negative
M = Magneto
B = Battery or positive
S = Start, or Solenoid
A = Alternator ( 12 V when engine is running )
L = Lights View attachment LTH 129.pdfView attachment LTH 130 Owners .pdfView attachment LTH 130-A.pdfView attachment LTH 130-F.pdf
Thanks forgetting back to me. I will try what you suggested ad get back to you. I am still hoping it is just a wiring fault rather than the coil as it as running fine Thanks again, Nic
Hi Bert. When you say "Pull off the engine cowle and follow the thin wire back to the first plug which should hide behind the starter motor" not sure where you mean? Do you mean disconnect the thin black wire from the coil module then turn the key over and if no spark then coil has had it ?? Sorry to be a pain. I suppose I could hand spin the fly wheel magneto to try and get a spark ??
Yep that is the one.
It stops sparks happening by earthing out the coil.
All of the safety switches that cut out the engine including the ignition switch are ultimately connected to this wire.
You only ever disconnect it for the purpose of testing the wiring & module.
Otherwise you end up with a situation similar to the bawdy ditty of the great big wheel powered by steam.
"for now we come to the tragic bit for there was no way of stopping it "
The module works by measuring the rise in induced voltage and when it gets to a refference point the circuit trips and the coil fires.
The faster the magnets pass by the coil the faster & higher the voltage generated
You can not spin the engine fast enough by hand to get to the refference voltage that trips the circuit.
So you will have to crank the engine.
Many thanks for getting back to me again. I tried the coil by taking out the plug and holding it against the bodywork whilst turning the engine on the key - and no spark. I have now taken the cowling off, unplugged the black wire on the coil and then (DER) tried spinning the flywheel by hand to get a spark - having not read your second reply. I will try it again in the morning by using the key to crank the engine. In one way I am sort of hoping it IS the coil then at least I will know why the flipping plug is not sparking and the mower not starting. Thanks again Bert. Have a great day and I will let you know how I get on Thursday. Nic.
Yes well I am an old fart and do forums on the beige box not the thing which we used to use to talk to each other with our voices.
Thus I do not expect every one to get my messages the instant I send them and there is a bit of a time difference between the colony & old dart.
In fact I met some really interesting people in the que at the GPO waiting for my booked 10 minute phone call to Lewis Brothers at 1am local time chasing up BSA parts.
When you get around to it , make quadruple sure that under no circumstances you are getting voltage to that coil wire.
Check every combination of controls , brake on brake off, brake + seat, Seat + pto , etc etc etc.
Apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I have had problems logging back in to the forum but back again now.
The start problem is SORTED thanks. I did have to get a new coil in the end, the old one had blown. Made extra sure the wiring was correct before linking up the coil to the black wire and hey presto - it fires up great so thanks so much for that.
Unfortunately, I now have another flipping problem. Having fixed the start fault, the flipping thing will now not move when in gear. It does not even sound like the gears are engaging. Also, I can push the thing along with the break fully on even though I have not put it into free-wheel mode - and I can also push it along freely even when it is put into gear ???
Whilst re-spraying the machine I did jack it up at the rear and did remove the rear wheels but cannot think what I could have done to prevent it now from going along. I DID remember to put the axle keys back in when putting the rear wheels back so it is not that. Do you think I may have accidentally dislodged the gear linkage ? I have read about 'purging the gear hydrolics' and the on-line manual says how to do that but that would not explain why I can push the thing along with the brake fully on. I will purge it though to make sure anyway.
Start with the basics.
Remove the rear wheels.
Check that the brake pedal is activating the brake arm
While the wheels are off check that the input pulley on top of the box is turning.
The clutch works by relaxing the tension on the drive belt.
Drive is achieved by a spring pulling on the tensioning lever.
The spring may have fallen off or the tension arm might be jambed in place.
A brand new thread "lth 130 won't move" might get some better response.
It is never a good idea to take different problems on the end of a different thread.
I will have a look at the things you suggested and go from there. If I don't get any joy I will start a new thread as you suggested. Sorry about that. This is the first time I have ever used / joined a forum so my apologies for throwing a new problem at you which is different from the one I originally asked about which you kindly helped me fix. Thanks again for your help. Nic
#11
BlazNT
Look for the "KEY" on the axle. I have them circled in red.
Sorry for not cleaning up the picture. I should know better.
After some deliberation and considerable time searching Google for a wiring diagram of my particular variant (HE13H36E) I decided to re-draw the circuit diagram exactly as it is on my mower and have attached it in case it is of any use.
Mine does not have a fuel solenoid, ammeter or electric clutch, I have also added some helpful notes
