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HUSQVARNA 324L

#1

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

got a husqvarna 324L,4cycle, that apparently has a Honda engine, that is stumping me. Randomly dying, sometimes can save it with choke.. Fuel lines were about done for.
replaced fuel lines, filter, spark plug. Disassembled carburetor, it was spotless inside and everything is in good shape.
It may run for 4 or 5 minutes at full throttle and slowly lose RPM and die, no saving it.
It may also die if i tilt it the trimmer head up, engine down. Or it may stay running.
checked for air leaks around carburetor are and none present. Spark stays consistent, though i am using a glow tester and not one where it has to jump the gap.
problem seems to be more consistent once warm.
Oil level is good.
I'm going to inspect p&C next and check compression
I have not been able to find a published compression spec
This is my first time working on a 4 cycle trimmer so any help is appreciated.


#2

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Scrubcadet10 said:
got a husqvarna 324L,4cycle, that apparently has a Honda engine, that is stumping me. Randomly dying, sometimes can save it with choke.. Fuel lines were about done for.
replaced fuel lines, filter, spark plug. Disassembled carburetor, it was spotless inside and everything is in good shape.
It may run for 4 or 5 minutes at full throttle and slowly lose RPM and die, no saving it.
It may also die if i tilt it the trimmer head up, engine down. Or it may stay running.
checked for air leaks around carburetor are and none present. Spark stays consistent, though i am using a glow tester and not one where it has to jump the gap.
problem seems to be more consistent once warm.
Oil level is good.
I'm going to inspect p&C next and check compression
I have not been able to find a published compression spec
This is my first time working on a 4 cycle trimmer so any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Possible ignition coil problem. The coil is borderline and as it heats up, begins putting out weaker spark. Don’t spend a lot more time on it trying to figure it out.


#3

StarTech

StarTech

If this is like the GX25 then the compression should be between 131-150 psi.


#4

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

StarTech said:
If this is like the GX25 then the compression should be between 131-150 psi.
Click to expand...
Will be checking this morning. Thanks


#5

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Compression shows 60 psi, but that's with an ACR bump on the exhaust.
Hooked my leak down tester to it.
There's a slight, noise of air at the dipstick hole, but I can't feel air moving at all....


#6

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Scrubcadet10 said:
Compression shows 60 psi, but that's with an ACR bump on the exhaust.
Hooked my leak down tester to it.
There's a slight, slight, noise of air at the lipstick hole, but I can't feel air moving at all....
Click to expand...
Honda compression check for that engine states to install compression gauge and pull starter rope with force several times and compression should be 131-150 as Startech posted. So unless you are just playing with pulling the rope your 60 psi is the issue.


#7

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Not at all, i yanked it good. with throttle WOT ...
even still, with that low of compression, could it run fine for a few minutes then stall out?


#8

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

alright, this is with my leakdown tester hooked up, in the video i went from 40,60, to 90 psi.
Both valves are closed and the rocker studs are removed, there are definitely places in the cylinder where the air gets quieter and and louder. No air from the intake or exhaust.


#9

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Scrubcadet10 said:
Not at all, i yanked it good. with throttle WOT ...
even still, with that low of compression, could it run fine for a few minutes then stall out?
Click to expand...
When the engine warms up and the oil is no longer being held in the ring grooves compression could drop to the point that it stalls. Funny thing is they also claim that engine is a 8.0:1 ratio engine which puts the max compression at around 117 not the 131-150 they claim.


#10

StarTech

StarTech

Loosen whichever valve the ACR is on until it is no longer active. This should the ACR out of the picture. Kinda hard to pull at 2000 rpm but that is what they are taking the compression reading at.


#11

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10



#12

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

StarTech said:
Loosen whichever valve the ACR is on until it is no longer active. This should the ACR out of the picture. Kinda hard to pull at 2000 rpm but that is what they are taking the compression reading at.
Click to expand...
Loosened up the exhaust valve until the ACR wouldn't act, compression hit 64PSI after multiple quick pulls....

it's a shame my arm won't spin at 2K rpm....


#13

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Scrubcadet10 said:
Loosened up the exhaust valve until the ACR wouldn't act, compression hit 64PSI after multiple quick pulls....

it's a shame my arm won't spin at 2K rpm....
Click to expand...
So if you spent two hours doing a tune up, diagnostics, etc. to get this trimmer running, how much did you charge the customer? The trimmer used might be worth $125 on a good day, all in running 100% right.


#14

StarTech

StarTech

The Husqvarna 324L was a very expensive unit when it was available. Most were over $300.

Beside it is a good learning project on 4 cycle trimmers. OR at least I self train on project like this and only charge what it would normally cost the customer if I knew what I was doing. This is mainly due to lack of service manuals. Heck when I first started on two cycle handhelds it was a huge learning curve. Sometimes it would take me all day to fix one. Now it is usually an hour except for those that require complete disassembly.

Even the service manual that are available on the Honda 4 cycle engine is lacking on a lot of things but does cover the basics.


#15

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Yeah I see where you're coming from Tiger.
This is for a friend and I told him I'd do what I could. But I'm not making much head way with it... I finally found my briggs spark tester....it was next to the snake.... spark stays consistent and only stops when the engine stops turning, doesn't appear to be killing it.
But with the compression reading, accurate or not, and the amount of air I had coming into the crankcase during the leak down test I'm confident it's a low compression/wore out engine...didn't look the oil had been ever changed in it. Black...black..


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