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Husqvarna 125b Blower Problem

#1

B

Bounje

Hi there,

More issues with this unit. Trying to learn to fix things on this equipment as I go. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Well after rebuilding the carb, tuning it, and installing a new spark plug I am having a new issue: the unit seems to run fine after warming it up. I put it into full throttle 'cruise control' and when I let it back down to an idle for longer than 10-15 seconds it cuts out when I put it back to full throttle. I tried starting it from half choke but will not until after I let it rest for 10-15 minutes. I also noticed a bit of gas leaked out somehow. Maybe when priming? I don't think it there would be any cause for leakage after pulling the start cord, right...?

Look forward to any advice. Thanks!


#2

I

ILENGINE

Does this blower have a primer mounted on the carb, or remotely mounted. If remoted mounted is the line from the fuel tank to the primer connected to the long nipple on the carb. If the lines are reversed can cause flooding because it overrides the metering diaphragm dumping fuel into the engine.


#3

B

Bounje

Yes, the unit has a remote primer. Could be the cause. Will look into it tomorrow and let you know the results.


#4

StarTech

StarTech

It can be that carburetor is just too lean at idle. When you rebuilt the carburetor did you set the metering lever height per specs? Setting too low will cause the carburetor to lean out at idle. Also sometimes even with it set correct the mixture must be set a little richer than you think as the idle speed drop so does the vacuum thru carburetor.

I am assuming you did install a new repair kit.


#5

B

Bounje

StarTech said:
It can be that carburetor is just too lean at idle. When you rebuilt the carburetor did you set the metering lever height per specs? Setting too low will cause the carburetor to lean out at idle. Also sometimes even with it set correct the mixture must be set a little richer than you think as the idle speed drop so does the vacuum thru carburetor.

I am assuming you did install a new repair kit.
Click to expand...
Yes, installed a new kit on the carb. From my research one should set the lever flush with carburetor surface so I did that. However, I did not follow any specs specifically for this machine regarding that setting.

So you are saying the idle speed should be slightly increased to run richer? (Still learning these terms)

Aside from all of that there seemed to be some flooding that would happen in the engine. After running for 10-20 min at full throttle I would put the machine into idle and then it would cut out after ~15 seconds. When I would go to restart it it acted flooded. There was the smell of gas and I even saw some on the ground when trying to restart.

I just operated it 30 minutes ago (tried clearing fuel out of the engine w/o spark plug, in choke, in full throttle while pulling start cable--not sure if this is effective). When I idled down after running this time it didn't seem to cut out but I was revving it up every 10 seconds or so to try and avoid that... It did start back up after I cut the engine with no problems contrary to recent past issues after extended running for snow removal.


#6

B

Bounje

ILENGINE said:
Does this blower have a primer mounted on the carb, or remotely mounted. If remoted mounted is the line from the fuel tank to the primer connected to the long nipple on the carb. If the lines are reversed can cause flooding because it overrides the metering diaphragm dumping fuel into the engine.
Click to expand...
So I opened up the machine and looked into the lines and connections and didn't find anything unusual. Wasn't quite sure if I was interpreting your explanation correctly so I have attached some photos for clarification.

The one photo shows the carb with top and bottom attachment points. The other photo shows how the lines connect. The long nipple at the primer bulb goes down into the tank with an open line. The short nipple on the primer bulb goes to the top of the carb. The fuel line with filter comes up directly to the bottom of the carb.

One other thing to note is that there still seems to be good pressure in the gas tank with the lid screwed on--according to how the fuel pumps through the lines when the primer bulb is engaged.

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#7

I

ILENGINE

Bounje said:
So I opened up the machine and looked into the lines and connections and didn't find anything unusual. Wasn't quite sure if I was interpreting your explanation correctly so I have attached some photos for clarification.

The one photo shows the carb with top and bottom attachment points. The other photo shows how the lines connect. The long nipple at the primer bulb goes down into the tank with an open line. The short nipple on the primer bulb goes to the top of the carb. The fuel line with filter comes up directly to the bottom of the carb.

One other thing to note is that there still seems to be good pressure in the gas tank with the lid screwed on--according to how the fuel pumps through the lines when the primer bulb is engaged.
Click to expand...
From the picture the fuel lines look correct.


#8

B

Bounje

The machine is back to its old habits. Despite increasing the idle speed slightly (which did make a difference in how it ran overall) it will still have trouble revving back up after 15-20 minutes use once I idle it. It either cuts out in idle or bogs down when throttled up and then cuts out. Then it will not start up again until resting it for a while.

Maybe it is simply time to get a different machine. I have heard multiple people complain about problems with this machine...


#9

A

AdamE

For what it's worth, I have the same blower and had similar problems. I bought a $15 Chinese carburetor (I know that's frowned upon around here) and it's run great ever since.


#10

B

Bounje

AdamE said:
For what it's worth, I have the same blower and had similar problems. I bought a $15 Chinese carburetor (I know that's frowned upon around here) and it's run great ever since.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. I tried it out. Don't know how I missed this but the carb is not the only problem (but was one of them)... Oh, boy.


#11

B

Bounje

Well, the blower has spark and the fuel system is now pretty good (changed fuel lines, tested tank pressure, changed carb, changed fuel filter) but... there is no compression whatsoever.

I thought I was going to give up on this machine before... Haha! Maybe now is the time? At least I'm learning lots from this process.

The cylinder doesn't appear to have scoring although I am not sure I'm looking for the right thing there.

I had a bit of fuel in the tank to try running with the new carb (when that seemed to be the only problem) and some fuel leaked out the top hole of the tank cap when I had the machine on its side to pull it apart. Does this mean it would fail a vacuum test? Or is it normal venting?

At this point I guess a leak down test would be the next step to troubleshooting the root of the problem. Any other recommendations?


#12

B

bertsmobile1

rings on these engines take a pounding as Husqvarna use only 1 ring which has to work in both directions
If you see any scoring of the bore when you take off the muffler then the engine is gone
Some of the aftermarket suppliers do replacement barrels & pistons ( Farmer tec ) but buy them direct from the manufacturer & not from ebay or amazon or any other mass platform as there are more QC rejects out there than good kits .
Usually you will see the ring is stuck because the piston has smeared over it
No compression at all is either a piston failure, cylinder loose on crankcase or hole in the crankcase or hole in the piston
In most cases you can hear a leaking barrel or holed crank case the top of the piston can be inspected through the exhaust port & the same for the ring
They just about always go at the exhaust unless run without oil .
I don't repair them because the labour charge, even if everything comes off easily exceeds the replacement price
And that rarely happens as 9 times out of 10 the fan is rusted solid onto the crankshaft and is impossible to remove without either breaking it or damaging the crank.


#13

B

Bounje

bertsmobile1 said:
rings on these engines take a pounding as Husqvarna use only 1 ring which has to work in both directions
If you see any scoring of the bore when you take off the muffler then the engine is gone
Some of the aftermarket suppliers do replacement barrels & pistons ( Farmer tec ) but buy them direct from the manufacturer & not from ebay or amazon or any other mass platform as there are more QC rejects out there than good kits .
Usually you will see the ring is stuck because the piston has smeared over it
No compression at all is either a piston failure, cylinder loose on crankcase or hole in the crankcase or hole in the piston
In most cases you can hear a leaking barrel or holed crank case the top of the piston can be inspected through the exhaust port & the same for the ring
They just about always go at the exhaust unless run without oil .
I don't repair them because the labour charge, even if everything comes off easily exceeds the replacement price
And that rarely happens as 9 times out of 10 the fan is rusted solid onto the crankshaft and is impossible to remove without either breaking it or damaging the crank.
Click to expand...
Thanks for reply! I don't think it's worth repair with so many variables in what the problem could be in the engine versus time and parts cost. When I tried turning the engine over gas would simply leak through the system into the muffler. Same issue with a new carb.


#14

B

bertsmobile1

For liquid fuel to do that then the carb or the tank venting has to be suspect, unless the engine has filled the crankcase with fuel that has yet to drain off .


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