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I have a newer model Husqvarna 125 B blower. I had to change the fuel lines (apparently a common problem), but after reassembling it, I can't keep it running. I have replaced the lines, fuel bubble, carburetor, and carb gaskets, and spark plug. I have double checked the fuel line assembly and it is correct (filter to carb, carb out to suction on pump, out from pump bubble to return into tank). What happens is, it turns over with full choke as it should. I then put it on half choke and it starts and keeps running. Every time I turn off the choke and give it gas, it dies. Does anyone have advice on the next step? Only thing I can think of to do next is changing the electrics. Or maybe a compression problem? Please help. Thanks.

I don't think you have a compression or spark problem. Sounds to me more like a carb problem. Most had Walbro carbs and would open the high speed needle 1/4 turn and the low speed needle 1/8 turn. If that does not help it would be time to clean and rebuild the carb.

I have this exact same problem. Cleaned the carb, replaced the carb, replaced the fuel filter, lines all look perfectly clean. Blower is very new as well. I am completely out of ideas.

SLH350 said:

I have this exact same problem. Cleaned the carb, replaced the carb, replaced the fuel filter, lines all look perfectly clean. Blower is very new as well. I am completely out of ideas.

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Ideas have nothing to do with it.
Methodical diagnosis is what pays dividends.
So if your tank does not vent air in, no fuel can come out.
If you tank does not hold 5 to 10 PSI pressure your engine will not run.


If the crankcase seals do not hold pressure & vacuum the blower will not run.

If the rings leak either way the engine will not run

If the exhaust is blocked ( mud pluggers ) the engine will not run

If the barrels are scored the engine will not run

If the rings are stuck the engine will not run

If he plug has some fouling down the bottom of the insulator your engine willnot run

If there is a short in the kill wire your engine will not run

If there is a short in the HT lead your engine wil not run

If the impulse line is blocked or cracked your engine will not run

Do you want some more ?

bertsmobile1 said:

Ideas have nothing to do with it.
Methodical diagnosis is what pays dividends.
So if your tank does not vent air in, no fuel can come out.
If you tank does not hold 5 to 10 PSI pressure your engine will not run.


If the crankcase seals do not hold pressure & vacuum the blower will not run.

If the rings leak either way the engine will not run

If the exhaust is blocked ( mud pluggers ) the engine will not run

If the barrels are scored the engine will not run

If the rings are stuck the engine will not run

If he plug has some fouling down the bottom of the insulator your engine willnot run

If there is a short in the kill wire your engine will not run

If there is a short in the HT lead your engine wil not run

If the impulse line is blocked or cracked your engine will not run

Do you want some more ?

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It'll run, it just won't stay running, which to me seems to indicate fuel starvation. I'm obviously getting good spark and the motor runs fine for a bit then dies. Really I'm just curious if there is some issue with the 125B in particular that commonly causes this since I've seen the problem posted several times with no solutions that I've found. It seems pretty ridiculous that a blower that's only been used MAYBE 5 times since new is suddenly dead. Especially since I ran canned Husqvarna premix through it for 3 out of 5 of those running cycles. Wondering if maybe the can I used was bad or something and clogged something up in the fuel lines that I can't seem to find. All the fuel lines running in and out of the carb and fuel line look brand new and clear.

SLH350 said:

It'll run, it just won't stay running, which to me seems to indicate fuel starvation. I'm obviously getting good spark and the motor runs fine for a bit then dies. Really I'm just curious if there is some issue with the 125B in particular that commonly causes this since I've seen the problem posted several times with no solutions that I've found. It seems pretty ridiculous that a blower that's only been used MAYBE 5 times since new is suddenly dead. Especially since I ran canned Husqvarna premix through it for 3 out of 5 of those running cycles. Wondering if maybe the can I used was bad or something and clogged something up in the fuel lines that I can't seem to find. All the fuel lines running in and out of the carb and fuel line look brand new and clear.

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Sure it is not constipation ?
OR gluttony ?

If you think there is only ever one problem, you are way off base.
If you think we can provide a one step answer with the information you have given us, you are wrong again.

Every one of the list previously mentioned will manifest itself in a can start but won't stay running situation.



Nothing is obvious unless it is specifically mentioned.
you have the blower, we have a computer screen.

You dredged up a 4 year old post and said you have the same problem as some one who gave us no information either.
The only thing we would assume is you have also replaced the carb & fuel lines the same as the original poster and still have a problem.

Now if you are ready to help us to help you diagnose your problems and fix your blower the start with an EXACT description of what happens when you start the blower.
Does it stay running a idle & only stop when you pull the trigger ?
Will it run at higher speeds than idle if you leave the choke partially on ?
Does it start 1st or 2nd pull or do you have to pull it 20 times ?
Does the primer bulb pop up quickly when pressed ?
is it full of fuel ?
If not does the fuel level go up or down ?
Are you sure the carb is connected to the line with the fuel filter and not the return ?
dose it make any difference if the fuel tank is totally full or 1/3 full ?
Does it make any difference if the fuel cap is loose ?
Does it make any difference if you remove the breather ?
Does it make any difference if you remove the muffler ?
Is the air filter wet or dry and does removing it make any difference ?
Have you tried a new plug ?
What does the old plug look like ?

If you expected a fold tab A into slot B and bend along dotted line C answer then you need to talk to the faries in the bottom of the garden not the forum

Haha okay, fair enough.

Does it stay running a idle & only stop when you pull the trigger ? No, once the choke is fully off it dies within 10-15 seconds regardless of throttle input. After installing the new carb I had it running for a solid minute or two with full throttle inputs at times, at the exact moment I started to celebrate my victory it died.
Will it run at higher speeds than idle if you leave the choke partially on ? No, tried to leave it half choked and throttle it up a bit but it still seems to die within maybe 20-30 seconds, leaving the half choke on preserves the run time a bit but not much.
Does it start 1st or 2nd pull or do you have to pull it 20 times ? Always starts within 3-5 pulls.
Does the primer bulb pop up quickly when pressed ? Pops right back within a second or so of depressing it, didn't seem off at all to me.
is it full of fuel ? Filled it up to the brim with a can of Husqvarna premix. Had issues, dumped all that, filled it all the way back up with another can of premix. Still had the same issue. Don't think I've tried it with anything less than a full tank.
If not does the fuel level go up or down ?
Are you sure the carb is connected to the line with the fuel filter and not the return ? That depends on your definition of sure. I was sure until you asked this question, now I'm going to check this first thing when I get home.
dose it make any difference if the fuel tank is totally full or 1/3 full ? Haven't tried it partially full, will attempt.
Does it make any difference if the fuel cap is loose ? Haven't tried loosening it, will give it a shot.
Does it make any difference if you remove the breather ? Nope.
Does it make any difference if you remove the muffler ? Haven't torn it down that far yet but I will see what that does.
Is the air filter wet or dry and does removing it make any difference ? Dry, tried removing it completley with no effect.
Have you tried a new plug ? Yes, no change.
What does the old plug look like ? Pretty much brand new.

OK, now we have something to work with.
Try pulling the muffler first EAR DAMAGE WARNING for a small engine they are bloody loud without the muffler.
Not odd for a mud plugger to get in there and block up the muffler, or the spark screen to block or rust up over winter.
And just like you, if nothing comes out you don't work for long :laughing:
Fish the fuel line & filter out of the fuel tank ( piece of hooked wire ) and pump the primer.
It should start pumping air after a 1/2 dozen presses if the carb is hooked up correctly.

Is it remote primer or is the primer part of the carb ?
If remote it goes filter to carb to primer to tank return , the primer sucks not pumps.

Did you get the carb from a mower shop of from a shonky internet dealer.
There are a lot of people on the web selling the cabs that Husqvarna rejected cheaply.
Profit margins in China are very thin so there is no such thing as scrap.

When you fitted the carb, there was a small hole on the engine side.
It is the impulse line to the fuel pump and must line up with the hole in the manifold.
Clots put silicon on the manifold gasket then refit it which blocks off the impulse line.

You can confirm the carb set up by pulling it off, leaving the fuel lines attached and blowing LOW PRESSURE air through the carb.
You should get a visible stream of atomised fuel coming out the end.
Usual warnings about smoking, naked flames, open fires, radiators etc etc etc.

This does not verify the pump but it does verify the carb is flowing fuel.
You should do this at varying throttle opening ( growing a 3rd hand rally helps with this. )

From the above post "It is the impulse line to the fuel pump and must line up with the hole in the manifold." yes a very common mistake to make......!

It has been my first hand experience that a muffler plugged by a mud dobber will not permit
the engine to fire even one lick................

Depends a bit on how well the muffler is sealed against the cylinder, how much or the outlet is plugged.
We get a lot of beetles that seem to want to crawl into the muffler then die.
Most times there is enough leakage to start but the engine dies the instant you open the throttle on engine that start with a full closed choke,

bertsmobile1,

Would you believe I signed up for this forum, after searching for exactly what this poster was trying to get help on, and ended up here to see what an unbelievable cocksucker you were to him.

First, King jackshit, he was looking for perhaps a PATTERN FAILURE, that this particular forum/site had seen several of, and could quickly fireback with 'oh yeah, its the bulb, many people that that exact thing happen.' The guys has thrown part after part after it and in a world where you're a tech, that isn't the way to do it. You want to diagnose it. Fix it right the first time.

But no, you beat the **** out of him with your GODLY power and ask him all kinds of **** this parts thrower would have no real idea to check, OTHERWISE HE WOULD HAVE CHECKED THEM, your ******* holiness!

Why don't you try to stop making others feel like dipshits for signing up to a site that was meant to help others, and not LORD over them your all knowing experience.

There were two ways to do this-the good way, and your ****** up way.

In the end, everyone that comes here is looking for help. Is it hard as hell to diagnose a specific problem over the internet or phone? **** yes it is! Does someone looking for that help need to be squeezed by the neck till they take a **** in their underwear, only to have you let them come back to conciousness...and while telling them what a supreme little engine expert you are, smear their ****** underwear all over their faces????

its either that, or you're tired of the little man showing up in here asking the same old simpleton ****. if thats the case, you need a vacation you fucktard.

I wished I could be standing in a crowd when you started talking to someone like that. I'd pound your ***.

Punkass bitch.

Now, I can be kicked off the forum now that I said what I came to say.

Bully, did you go looking to pick a fight when you got up today? Bert is one of the techs on this forum who has helped a lot of members who know how to follow directions and has been thanked for his services many times. I don’t know if you have any knowledge in the repair field, but by reading your rant, I doubt that you have half the knowledge of the garage mechanics who think they know more than the service techs. If you even took 30 seconds to read other threads which he and many other techs subscribe to you would see what I am talking about. Many times people think that we have ESP, are mind readers and are standing next to you holding your hand. We offer free advice and admonish those who won’t help us or have the mechanical skills of a two year old. If you just want to look for a fight and are still trying to be the class bully, you can leave now, as we don’t need you or your foul language. I doubt that you came looking for or willing to offer good free advice. If you are in need of anger management courses or how to handle social situations, we would be willing to point you to many online sites to help you out.

Has anybody mentioned the in-tank fuel filter?
Those can become partially plugged and not permit adequate fuel flow ...........

Dearest Bully Killer.
I know this might be difficult for you to understand but there is a METHOD in small engine diagnosis.
If you have read any wider than you own rants then perhaps you may have come across the saying
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach him to fish and he will fed himself forever"

If I wanted to talk down to some one , belittle them & make them feel stupid then I would have packed the reply with jargon the poster would have trouble understanding and chided him for doing things out of order.
If I get off by hurling abuse then my post would have read like yours, full of words that the auto editor removes.

What you fail to understand is there are a lot of things that need to be checked.
If the tool was here in the shop, sounds & smells alone would have allowed me or any other 1/2 decent technician to diagnose it in a few seconds.
However on a forum we have nothing to work with but the words posted on a screen. And people use different words to describe the same think oft incorrectly which gives others the wrong perception of what is actually happening.
Engine dies means very little other than the engine does not work and is about as informative as you walking into a doctors rooms and saying "I feel sick, give me a pill"
There is a dead stop, a no spark stop a flooded stop & a lean stop they all look & sound different.
However as we do not expect posters to be able to recognise these subtle differences we ask them other questions to circumvent a perceived lack of knowledge.
If it becomes apparent the posted posses a higher level of aptitude then the tone of the thread picks up a bit.

In sympathy with the "fish" saying is one of Bertrand Russels
"Most people would rather die than think about what they are doing..... a great many succeed at this " or similar.
I am sorry that to follow the help offered to Dubber you were forced to do something you have great difficulty with , Thinking .
However lashing out with your tirade will do nothing to help Dubber, yourself or any one else who comes across the thread seeking help with their tools.

The only unfortunate thing is because Dubber did not respond to post #12 the thread went cold without a resolution to his problem.
This happens because many of us who come here daily use the "new posts" search so as Dubber never came back after post # 12 it is assumed that he either gave up or nutted his problem out on the basis of the information given but failed to come back us.

Now if you want help with your tools all you have to do is ask.

And just so you know I have several functionally illiterate mowing contractor on my books.
When the penny finally dropped, I went the extra few yards to "show & tell" when they brought equipment in that was not working properly.
When I took over the business, one of them was buying 2 batteries a season 15 chain saw blades, his total invoicing was in excess of $ 4000/pa and he was going broke.
Five years on his spend is around $ 300 /pa and that is only for parts as I took the time ( not charged for ) to walk him through the proper maintenance & use of his gear and he has now made enough to get a new ( used ) truck as he was using his sedan with a trailer.
HE used to work for a sheltered workshop and before long he had sent a lot of his fellow contractors who also suffer from a variety of problems to me for their servicing & repairs.
AFAIK all but one are now running at a profit, well until the drought set in they were so your perception of me could have not been more off base if you tried.

I "get off" by having some one come back with a final "it is running better than new" post.
There is no such thing as a stupid question, just stupid people who fail to ask them.

bullykiller said:

bertsmobile1

Now, I can be kicked off the forum now that I said what I came to say.

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As Curly Bill Brocius (Powers Booth) said to Wayatt Earp (Kurt Russel) in Tombstone:

Well, bye!

I have previously observed that making final inflammatory remarks and then leaving abruptly
is a characteristic of one certain type of individual....................

Won’t get kicked off, but we can fill his inbox each day with a “ you have a reply”. Probably isn’t worth the effort.

Quite correct.
A single response to refute the diatribe is all that was required and that is mainly for historical purposes.
I seriously doubt he will be back as he struck me as they type who hurl insults from passing cars or throw cans full of rocks at police from the rear of a crowd.
Thanks for the kind words.
Unless my Bully killer actually come back for advice then this thread is closed as far as I am concerned.

bertsmobile1 said:

Quite correct.
A single response to refute the diatribe is all that was required and that is mainly for historical purposes.
I seriously doubt he will be back as he struck me as they type who hurl insults from passing cars or throw cans full of rocks at police from the rear of a crowd.
Thanks for the kind words.
Unless my Bully killer actually come back for advice then this thread is closed as far as I am concerned.

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As a 35 year wrench turner on OPE, I say you were very rude. The way you phrased your replies were uncalled for. There's always someone better than you with knowledge and abilities to Dx and repair these small engines. Don't bother replying to me with your uneducated blathering. Poof.

oliver12 said:

As a 35 year wrench turner on OPE, I say you were very rude. The way you phrased your replies were uncalled for. There's always someone better than you with knowledge and abilities to Dx and repair these small engines. Don't bother replying to me with your uneducated blathering. Poof.

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Another in-and-outer.
Maybe the same guy??

Bert may be curt, but he is extremely knowledgeable and will openly share his knowledge and experience with anybody!
(I know you don't need me to stand up for you, Bertman; just contributing my $.02.)

Oliver, you read one thread and now you are the person that knows more than the rest of the techs who have been helping people for thousands of posts. Your 35 years of turning wrenches should have prepared you for a better response that you gave. You were probably the engineer who designed the graphite head gasket for the overhead valve engines, which keeps blowing because there isn’t enough material in between the cylinder and valve chamber. Are you a guy who knows how to lift his skirt to get the job done or another “one and done guy”, who likes to throw stones and then runs to mommy saying he is being picked on?

oliver12 said:

As a 35 year wrench turner on OPE, I say you were very rude. The way you phrased your replies were uncalled for. There's always someone better than you with knowledge and abilities to Dx and repair these small engines. Don't bother replying to me with your uneducated blathering. Poof.

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Rudeness like beauty & art is very much in the mind of the viewer.
So if you find the response I gave unpalitable uneducated then kindly put your fingers to the keyboard and type the response you believe Daubber should have received .
Then he and poster like SLH350 & of course Bully killer plus all future readers can ignore what I posted and go directly to your substantially better response.
I am always ready & willing to learn, it is why i came here in the first place and because I was educated in a science / engineering decipline I am always very happy to be shown to be or proven to be wrong.
Which of course is a very powerful method of education so we all await you showing us how you believe it should be done