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Well, I got my starting issues resolved, thanks again to everyone!

I now have another issue I want to throw out there. My steering wheel on my Huskee Premium Model 678, maybe a 2002 has alot of play in it, by alot I mean I start to turn the wheel and I turn it about 1/2 full turn and then the wheels start to turn. I looked at the gear and the teeth all seem to meet at the same time.

Have anyone else had an issue with steering wheels????

TH

Model number?

Model 678 its the Platinum Edition Huskee, circa 2004 I think.

Model number on the sticker under seat.

13AU678G131

Check the parts in attached picture.

Hey thanks. I will check when I get some daylight to check. I'll be back in a few days.

Hi BlazNT, the issue seems to be when the gear at the end of item #28 (steering shaft) meets with item #18, thats where I see most of the 'slop' or play.

????????

Thanks,
Jeff

If the steering gear lifts out from the fan gear when you turn the wheel one way and then seems to pull in when you turn the heel the other way that usually means the bush on the end of the steering shaft has gone.
That diagtam does not show one but it will be there either directly above or below the gear on the bottom

These are one of the things the owners manual tells you to oil but because the are almost impossible to get at very seldom get touched.

Ok so you turn steering wheel and then #18 turns right away or does not turn right away? If it turns right away but the wheels don't turn right away?

Bertsmobile is correct, as best I can seeing inside there with the gas tank and crap in the way. How do I find a part number for a replacement bushing(S)?

jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/cub-cadet/huskee-husky/13-lawn-tractors/2002-models/13au678g131-2002/axle-front-wheels-front-steering-assembly
Part number 29 and 30. One or both.

Do you mean 21 and 29?

21 is also a part but I did not think you would need a washer. #30 is an after market part to fix the turning problem you are having. Don't know how good it is but thought I would point it out.

Thanks, I'll order parts tomorrow. Now, how east it to replace this part? As I assume the steering shaft has to come out.

I have removed and replaced gear on MTD mower before. It was easy after I removed everything in the way.

Being fat, ugly lazy & out of condition I like to do things the easiest was possible.
Drain the fuel tank , remove the battery and drop the deck.
Find something to hoist the mower up with, tree, verandah post, kids swing set, don't matter.
Stand the mower on its bum the everything you need to get to is right in front of your dial.
Usually once whatever holds the gear to the shaft is undone the shaft slips back up out the way, bush gets replaced, occasionally they are bolted in from the top , then push back the steering shaft, align the steering , replace the gear and you are done,

Well, I finally got to take a peek under the tractor. I see no bushing. I've attached 2 pics of the underside. BlazNT? Bertsmobile1? Any recommendations now?

Back to my origional parts diagram #9 screws into steering shaft. Remove it and you will find bushing when you lift steering shaft.

I know standing this up on its end seems like the best way, but it's only me working on this. The best I could do is drain the tank and maybe drop the deck.

Once I get #9 screw out, how much more BS is there to get the steering wheel out?

If you are only going to drop the deck, then get it up high as you will be working on the underside of the mower.
No need to drain the tank, that is just to sto fuel pouring out of the tank.
If you have a trailer then drive it up on the back and chack the mower wheels & put a stand under the trailer.
Run the front wheels up the front steps, anything to give yourself hammer swinging space under there.
In most cases the steering stem will pull right out from the wheel end once the retainer under the deck is removed.
The pivot bolt No 8 in the diagram can come loose as does the guide bolt No 26
Because no home owner ever lubricates it the fan plate No 18 floggs out in the hole that the No 8 bolt goes through.
No real need to pull anything out on top of the mower it is all done from underneath.

But before you start, have a long close look at all the parts circled in the original diagram.
Note that there are 4 bushes ( no 30 ).
Look carefully at the steering stem to see if it is moving. It should rotate but not move.
All of the parts that were highlited for you should rotate but not move.
A little here, a little there and all of a sudden it is undriveable.

I'm going to add one thing that nobody else has addressed and that is the up and down movement of the flat rack gear #18. Find a piece of flat, dense plastic or the best material is teflon. You need a piece approximately .032 thick. If the wear on top of the gear pedastal (Floor of frame) the gear moves on is extreme, you may require a thicker piece of plastic.

Using the mounting plate, number 1 for a template, cut out the material and insert it between the plate and the rack gear #18. Make sure you time the gears and tighten everything up. This will set the correct installation height contact of#18 to #28, maintain that height and keep the gear from rearing up. This will not only serve to remove a great deal of the steering wheel slack, it will also give a better steering experience by maintaining the correct gear tooth of the #28 to #18.

I have in the case of extreme wear to the frame below the gear rack, adding an ultra thin piece of teflon cutting board material you can purchase at a home supply. They usually come in threes and are different colors. Now, before you jump in about the colors, the colors have nothing to do with hardness or lubricity, it is so you don't mix meats and vegetables while prepping food. lol

I've done these additions on several mowers in the community in the past several years. None of them have had to be replaced at this point. You can also drill and thread #1 and screw in a 1/4-28 90 degree grease zerk to make it much easier to lubricate the gear rack.

Time to do this is while you're replacing #28 and the bushing #28 resides. Grease them well with heavy high temperature grease.

Good luck.

Well, I got the issue fixed. After looking at everything, Item #10 was loose at Item #18. I took Item #19 off and screwed it clockwise and kept trying putting it back on and trying it. I have it to where it's tight now. Again, the steering was only loose going CCW and CW, not up and down. I also ended up putting a finger full of grease on the gears as well.

Thanks again for all the advice, I will for sure resort back to this page when things really go to hell.

Have a great weekend everyone!
Jeff

Glad to hear it Tube Jock. I was speaking to loose right / left slack. Much of that is caused by the rack moving upward away from the spiral gear and thus causes the two teeth to disengage somewhat from each other. If they are not at the proper depth, it makes it extremely difficult to turn the steering wheel and especially to return the wheel back to neutral. If you have those problems, you don't have to totally disassemble everything to add the spacer / flat plastic bearing material between the retainer and the steering rack.

Main thing is to make sure you time the gears for centering the steering. If it is off center, it will turn further one way than the other and not by choice as is some of the manufacturers.

Again, glad you're up and running.

Run it like you stole it. If you break it, fix it.

This thread is old, but my problem is not so old. I bought my Huskee LT4200 (13AD771G731) in 2004, and have had little or no problems with it, other than the usual wear and tear stuff. Then sometime back my steering got a bit too loose and found some slop in the wheel shaft gear and steering assembly, and a loose adjustment bolt. So, I adjusted the slop out, but, somehow slipped the gear over a tooth or two then tightened all down. Well, that was before I fell ill with cancer and have not been able to work on it for several months. Being and old dude, I forgot what I did.

I have seen a few "fix-it" videos, that in most cases, are so amateurish they make no sense. Any suggestions for a video for adjusting said system this old engineer can understand?