HRC2163HXA MAKA 1094141 Blade Clutch Assembly Bolt Torque Specs

K

Koamolly

Member
Does anyone know the torque spec for the bolt that holds on the blade clutch assembly? This is for the one bolt in the center, not the two bolts that hold on the blades. Also, what's the best way to stop the engine from rotating when tightening the bolts? Thanks.
 
Koamolly said:
Does anyone know the torque spec for the bolt that holds on the blade clutch assembly? This is for the one bolt in the center, not the two bolts that hold on the blades. Also, what's the best way to stop the engine from rotating when tightening the bolts? Thanks.
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That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...
 
robert@honda said:
That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...
Click to expand...

Just be careful doing that that's a lot of torque on one side of the blade
 
Interesting, that's lower than I thought since the the owner's manual has 36-43 ft lbs for the blade bolts. I assumed they would be the same. Thanks.
 
Koamolly said:
Interesting, that's lower than I thought since the the owner's manual has 36-43 ft lbs for the blade bolts. I assumed they would be the same. Thanks.
Click to expand...

The blade bolts are made of a different material, and use special curved washers. They are subject to considerably more stress and must only be tightened to a precise torque for safe, reliable operation and blade retention. Thus, we have a a "special torque" spec for them.

Other "regular" bolts, nuts and fasteners on modern mowers are in different league for stress and operational performance, and are not subject to the type of demands required of a blade bolt, so the torque specs are SAE standard instead.
 
That's to stop the crank from spinning. You have your crank shaft which is perfectly balanced, and let's add your blade that is 21" long you stop one side of that blade with wood block and you begin torquing the crank bolt if you put to much pressure on one side of the blade 10" away from the crank you could bend the blade or even the crank . Granted you should be done tightening long before we get to this point some people don't know there own strength and could bend the crank ruining the entire motor.
 
robert@honda said:
That is a 10 x 25 mm hex bolt; Honda says to use a normal torque, which is 29 ft-lbs. (39 N瀕).

Ideally, you should use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel. I recall you may also be able to temporarily fit the blades and their bolts into place, then used a 2 x 4 or other block of wood stuffed into the discharge to hold the crankshaft in place...
Click to expand...

I retorqued the bolt. I don't think blocking the blades works since blade clutch is not engaged. I did try blocking but the crankshaft still easily rotates. Unless I misunderstood.
 
Koamolly said:
I retorqued the bolt. I don't think blocking the blades works since blade clutch is not engaged. I did try blocking but the crankshaft still easily rotates. Unless I misunderstood.
Click to expand...

Ahh yes blade clutch. The real best way is to either engage clutch and use the block or the best way is strap wrench the flywheel
 
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