Export thread
How to start and stop a drive-train
#7
Two-Stroke
Two-Stroke
Hey... this is a great thread. :thumbsup:
Grampy, I hope you become a regular member here.
Please tell me more about those Maytag engines. Two-stroke or four-stroke? Please tell us more. I'm a big fan of Maytag washing machines... for me, that brand ranks just a little below Lawn-Boy, Stihl and Jacobsen... but that just my opinion.
Grampy, I hope you become a regular member here.
Please tell me more about those Maytag engines. Two-stroke or four-stroke? Please tell us more. I'm a big fan of Maytag washing machines... for me, that brand ranks just a little below Lawn-Boy, Stihl and Jacobsen... but that just my opinion.
#8
G
Gampy
They are all 2 stroke they range in hp from 1/2 hp to 1 hp. There are about 6 models. The most sought after are the uprights (2 models) they make up both the low end and the high end of the hp range. I do not own any uprights.
There are 3 more models and then some variations on those. (the model 92 "most common" is a 3/4 hp single cylinder, it has several sizes of bases and also some variations on exhaust) (the model 82 is most like the 92 with the cylinder turned sideways) and my favorite (the model 72-D 5/8 hp twin with opposing cylinders that both fire at the same time - how weird is that?)
They are all hit and miss engines by means of ignition interruption. This means that when the flywheel slows down enough then the governor calls for the magneto to send a spark to the plug. For most folks timing is somewhat hard to set (especially on the Model 92). I know of people that have messed around with setting the points on a 92 for weeks and the thing still won't run. They are mostly kick start engines except for the uprights which are "spin the flywheel by hand" to start.
I have just put new rings and rebuilt 3 of the 4 engines shown in the video above. The normal oil gas mixture is 16 to 1 using 30 wt non detergent mineral base motor oil. Modern 2 cycle oil mix was not invented in those days and I don't think it works well in these engines. I do know it produces less smoke as you go about the under lubrication of your engine. On newly rebuild engines I add more oil until the rings wear in for the first couple of tank full's (thus the extra smoke in the video). However, some say that you can't put too much oil on a Maytag, and yes they are supposed to smoke. They all come with a long metal flex hose for the exhaust to be put out the window or away from the area. This is so the lucky housewife in 1920 who had moved up from a rub-board to a wringer washer wouldn't kill her family on wash day.
They are mostly cast iron which is why they are still around after about 100 years. There are some aluminum parts such as the flywheel and ignition system on some models. They are called "Maytag Multi-Motor" because after electricity became available in rural areas these gas engines were replaced on wringer washers with electric motors and farmers would use the old gas engines to power all sorts of stuff around the farm. (Corn shelters, corn grinders, bench grinders, ice cream freezers:licking:, water pumps, small 1000 w generators, lawn mowers, little tillers, and the list go on and on :thumbsup
The engines weigh about 65 lbs or so when naked. I bought some kind of 6.5 hp gas engine from Harbor Freight and it, the whole thing, is only about 5 or 6 lbs. I'll bet it won't be popping a hundred years from now. I'm not even sure it had any metal :laughing:
It takes me about 1 hr to take apart a Maytag, a couple of days in my electrolysis tank removing old paint, rust and stuff, a day or so painting the parts, and about a half day to put it back together. If it is stuck add 2 hrs on the break down. I always use new gaskets and rings and de-glaze the cylinder. I also put in new bushings using a shop press and I use a line reamer to make it all fit just right.
Now after all of this book..... the bottom line is that I have fun.... and it beats the heck out of just sitting and staring at Dancing with the Stars on TV. I have found this hobby to be rewarding especially when they crank on the first push with my hand on the kick petal. It's also fun to figure new stuff to power with these Maytags and different ways to hook it all up. Poke around on my other videos and I think there is one that is shown being started on the first push.
I live on a farm and for mowing grass I use an eXmark 52" - to me a nice machine and a tractor for the larger areas
AND YES I AM STILL LOOKING FOR THAT PULLEY CLUTCH SHOWN IN MY FIRST POST
G
Gampy
Hey... this is a great thread. :thumbsup:
Grampy, I hope you become a regular member here.
Please tell me more about those Maytag engines. Two-stroke or four-stroke? Please tell us more. I'm a big fan of Maytag washing machines... for me, that brand ranks just a little below Lawn-Boy, Stihl and Jacobsen... but that just my opinion.
They are all 2 stroke they range in hp from 1/2 hp to 1 hp. There are about 6 models. The most sought after are the uprights (2 models) they make up both the low end and the high end of the hp range. I do not own any uprights.
There are 3 more models and then some variations on those. (the model 92 "most common" is a 3/4 hp single cylinder, it has several sizes of bases and also some variations on exhaust) (the model 82 is most like the 92 with the cylinder turned sideways) and my favorite (the model 72-D 5/8 hp twin with opposing cylinders that both fire at the same time - how weird is that?)
They are all hit and miss engines by means of ignition interruption. This means that when the flywheel slows down enough then the governor calls for the magneto to send a spark to the plug. For most folks timing is somewhat hard to set (especially on the Model 92). I know of people that have messed around with setting the points on a 92 for weeks and the thing still won't run. They are mostly kick start engines except for the uprights which are "spin the flywheel by hand" to start.
I have just put new rings and rebuilt 3 of the 4 engines shown in the video above. The normal oil gas mixture is 16 to 1 using 30 wt non detergent mineral base motor oil. Modern 2 cycle oil mix was not invented in those days and I don't think it works well in these engines. I do know it produces less smoke as you go about the under lubrication of your engine. On newly rebuild engines I add more oil until the rings wear in for the first couple of tank full's (thus the extra smoke in the video). However, some say that you can't put too much oil on a Maytag, and yes they are supposed to smoke. They all come with a long metal flex hose for the exhaust to be put out the window or away from the area. This is so the lucky housewife in 1920 who had moved up from a rub-board to a wringer washer wouldn't kill her family on wash day
.They are mostly cast iron which is why they are still around after about 100 years. There are some aluminum parts such as the flywheel and ignition system on some models. They are called "Maytag Multi-Motor" because after electricity became available in rural areas these gas engines were replaced on wringer washers with electric motors and farmers would use the old gas engines to power all sorts of stuff around the farm. (Corn shelters, corn grinders, bench grinders, ice cream freezers:licking:, water pumps, small 1000 w generators, lawn mowers, little tillers, and the list go on and on :thumbsup
The engines weigh about 65 lbs or so when naked. I bought some kind of 6.5 hp gas engine from Harbor Freight and it, the whole thing, is only about 5 or 6 lbs. I'll bet it won't be popping a hundred years from now. I'm not even sure it had any metal :laughing:
It takes me about 1 hr to take apart a Maytag, a couple of days in my electrolysis tank removing old paint, rust and stuff, a day or so painting the parts, and about a half day to put it back together. If it is stuck add 2 hrs on the break down. I always use new gaskets and rings and de-glaze the cylinder. I also put in new bushings using a shop press and I use a line reamer to make it all fit just right.
Now after all of this book..... the bottom line is that I have fun.... and it beats the heck out of just sitting and staring at Dancing with the Stars on TV. I have found this hobby to be rewarding especially when they crank on the first push with my hand on the kick petal. It's also fun to figure new stuff to power with these Maytags and different ways to hook it all up. Poke around on my other videos and I think there is one that is shown being started on the first push.
I live on a farm and for mowing grass I use an eXmark 52" - to me a nice machine and a tractor for the larger areas
AND YES I AM STILL LOOKING FOR THAT PULLEY CLUTCH SHOWN IN MY FIRST POST
#15
Two-Stroke
Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I'll keep my eyes peeled to one of those old Maytag two-strokes... definitely worth collecting.
I don't get the bit about not using modern two-cycle oil. From what I understand, it's superior in all respects compared to using a lubricant that's not specifically designed for that application. But there may be unique aspects of these Maytag engines so that logic doesn't apply to them.
On the clutch issue: have you looked at clutches from old motor scooters? Some of them (made before about the mid-1960s) had separate clutches between the engine and the (separate) gearbox.
Two-Stroke
They are all 2 stroke they range in hp from 1/2 hp to 1 hp. There are about 6 models. The most sought after are the uprights (2 models) they make up both the low end and the high end of the hp range. I do not own any uprights.
There are 3 more models and then some variations on those. (the model 92 "most common" is a 3/4 hp single cylinder, it has several sizes of bases and also some variations on exhaust) (the model 82 is most like the 92 with the cylinder turned sideways) and my favorite (the model 72-D 5/8 hp twin with opposing cylinders that both fire at the same time - how weird is that?)
They are all hit and miss engines by means of ignition interruption. This means that when the flywheel slows down enough then the governor calls for the magneto to send a spark to the plug. For most folks timing is somewhat hard to set (especially on the Model 92). I know of people that have messed around with setting the points on a 92 for weeks and the thing still won't run. They are mostly kick start engines except for the uprights which are "spin the flywheel by hand" to start.
I have just put new rings and rebuilt 3 of the 4 engines shown in the video above. The normal oil gas mixture is 16 to 1 using 30 wt non detergent mineral base motor oil. Modern 2 cycle oil mix was not invented in those days and I don't think it works well in these engines. I do know it produces less smoke as you go about the under lubrication of your engine. On newly rebuild engines I add more oil until the rings wear in for the first couple of tank full's (thus the extra smoke in the video). However, some say that you can't put too much oil on a Maytag, and yes they are supposed to smoke. They all come with a long metal flex hose for the exhaust to be put out the window or away from the area. This is so the lucky housewife in 1920 who had moved up from a rub-board to a wringer washer wouldn't kill her family on wash day
They are mostly cast iron which is why they are still around after about 100 years. There are some aluminum parts such as the flywheel and ignition system on some models. They are called "Maytag Multi-Motor" because after electricity became available in rural areas these gas engines were replaced on wringer washers with electric motors and farmers would use the old gas engines to power all sorts of stuff around the farm. (Corn shelters, corn grinders, bench grinders, ice cream freezers:licking:, water pumps, small 1000 w generators, lawn mowers, little tillers, and the list go on and on :thumbsup
The engines weigh about 65 lbs or so when naked. I bought some kind of 6.5 hp gas engine from Harbor Freight and it, the whole thing, is only about 5 or 6 lbs. I'll bet it won't be popping a hundred years from now. I'm not even sure it had any metal :laughing:
It takes me about 1 hr to take apart a Maytag, a couple of days in my electrolysis tank removing old paint, rust and stuff, a day or so painting the parts, and about a half day to put it back together. If it is stuck add 2 hrs on the break down. I always use new gaskets and rings and de-glaze the cylinder. I also put in new bushings using a shop press and I use a line reamer to make it all fit just right.
Now after all of this book..... the bottom line is that I have fun.... and it beats the heck out of just sitting and staring at Dancing with the Stars on TV. I have found this hobby to be rewarding especially when they crank on the first push with my hand on the kick petal. It's also fun to figure new stuff to power with these Maytags and different ways to hook it all up. Poke around on my other videos and I think there is one that is shown being started on the first push.
I live on a farm and for mowing grass I use an eXmark 52" - to me a nice machine and a tractor for the larger areas
AND YES I AM STILL LOOKING FOR THAT PULLEY CLUTCH SHOWN IN MY FIRST POST
Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I'll keep my eyes peeled to one of those old Maytag two-strokes... definitely worth collecting.
I don't get the bit about not using modern two-cycle oil. From what I understand, it's superior in all respects compared to using a lubricant that's not specifically designed for that application. But there may be unique aspects of these Maytag engines so that logic doesn't apply to them.
On the clutch issue: have you looked at clutches from old motor scooters? Some of them (made before about the mid-1960s) had separate clutches between the engine and the (separate) gearbox.
#20
Two-Stroke
Two-Stroke
#24
Two-Stroke
Two-Stroke