Hi all,
Have a very old Toro 21" rear bagger Model number 26623. It's not been running well, and today quit completely amid lots of smoke! It's not seized, there is oil in the crank case, and it will start and run for a short period of time after a shot of carb cleaner. I took off the fuel lines and the fuel filter, and both had bits inside. I intend to replace both lines and filter, but feel that given what I've seen the carb will probably have junk in it too. Does anyone have a step by step to removing the carb on this machine, or can point me on the 'net to somewhere that does? Thanks...any help would be appreciated.
Thanks KennyV,
Strange...I went to the site and couldn't find the carb. When I looked more closely at my carb it has Mikuni on it, and a stamp on the engine that says made in Japan. Perhaps this is NOT a Briggs and stratton engine? Altho the fuel filter says B and S on it??
Also...I removed the valve cover and the oil inside smells very burnt?? Any ideas anyone?
#4
EngineMan
Post up the B&S engine number/type and any name/make/numbers on the carb, if the oil is burnt as you say, it could be the ring's. need doing. you can always do a compression test.
Thanks Engineman,
Unfortunately there is absolutely no numbers on the engine anywhere, only "Made in Japan". The carb. has "Mikuni Corp." on it but no numbers.
#6
EngineMan
Is there anyway of taking a few photo's and post them up here.
Copy the pic from the above post site and take apart the carb starting from 24 and remove bowl, next remove bowl float 28, needle 29, remove 32 clean out 21 with carb cleaner and all hole's that you can see, making sure that 21 is clean, use cleaner down the fuel inlet, repeat until you are happy then refit all parts.
and make sure seal 30 is in good order. when you put nut 24 back on, don't over do it.
if you damage part's 13 or they're are, repleace them.
:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown: Well....all back together, new fuel, 30 weight oil, new fuel filter and lines. Will start but runs like the choke's on, and then dies. After two pulls to try and restart, the plug is soaked. New plug? It's the only thing I haven't changed, but it seems to be a fuel problem still :-(
BTW, thanks for the help and your patience with this....what do I do now??:confused2:
yep...as per your instructions and the diagram. Perhaps the carb needs to be adjusted or I somehow didn't hook it up correctly....seemed fairly straight forward but......
#17
EngineMan
And what about a good spark, try a new one just to see if that would work, and recheck th carb. did you do a compression test in the end, and what was it.
No...didn't do a compression test yet....that will be next on my list. I'm thinking that maybe I did something wrong when I re-installed the carb.....maybe something is loose and sucking air....anyhow I'm going to take another look and make sure the choke lever/butterfly is working as it should, and that all lines are tight. the gaskets all looked good but maybe I should have changed them anyhow. I'll try a new plug as well.
Cheers
There should be a tab on the float, where it contacts the needle valve, a slight bend at that point will have a big effect on fuel level...
I'm assuming that the carb is similar to the illustrated parts break down that, pugaltitude linked in post #7....
BTW when bending the tab, Do Not apply pressure to the needle & it's seat... :smile:KennyV
I've disassembled and re-assembled everything....doesn't seem to be anything untoward. Now, the mower starts, and immediately revs extremely high for a few seconds and then dies. Any ideas??
Thanks.
I've disassembled and re-assembled everything....doesn't seem to be anything untoward. Now, the mower starts, and immediately revs extremely high for a few seconds and then dies. Any ideas??
Thanks.
Check your carb linkage, especially the governor linkage.
There should be a small spring that pulls the throttle wide open, and the governor should counter act that springs pull once the engine starts... :smile:KennyV
Check your carb linkage, especially the governor linkage.
There should be a small spring that pulls the throttle wide open, and the governor should counter act that springs pull once the engine starts... :smile:KennyV
Both linkages look fine...there is a very fine spring on the rear linkage that hooks into the same hole as the linkage itself. Is that right? If so, all seems to be well but the problem remains:thumbdown:
Yes...it looks exactly as shown. I've attached a few pics. Don't want to try messing with the governor in case I take on more than I can handle.:frown:
Just a thought
Is it possible that I've put the fuel filter back the wrong way round? When I blew air through it from either side the air passes through, but perhaps that doesn't mean it can work in either direction?
Thanks....still struggling with this:thumbdown:
1. Which end of this fuel filter should be towards the carb? Not very clear in the diagram
2. Does the break in the nipple attached to the gas tank explain my problem?
Thanks
Attachments
#29
EngineMan
Pic is not that clear, but I say that bottom right should go to tank, and yes you do have a problem with the tank outlet, if you can't fix it by replacing it, you would have to fit new tank.
At almost $60 for a new tank I don't think I'll be replacing it. It seems a shame after all this effort but that's life I guess. Thanks everyone for your help...I'm off to the dump!!!
#31
EngineMan
Am sure that it can be fixed with a hotgun if you take you're time at it. I would have a go before I'd bin it.