Export thread

How to determine model #?

#1

W

Winch

I just bought an older Yard-Man garden tractor and I didn't get any doc with it. I found the model and serial # on the tag under the seat but I suspect it may not be the original seat. The reason I suspect that is because I own a Yard-Machines garden tractor that I have doc for and both seats have the exact same model/serial number which is 13BQ695H352 - 1C028H30215. When I try to find doc based on that model/serial even if I specify Yard-Man all I can find is doc for the Yard-Machines. The Yard-Machines has Hydrostatic trans, 46" deck and standard steer. The Yard-Man is 7 speed trans, 42" deck and is 4-wheel steer. Can anyone help me find the model/serial and/or documentation?

I want to read up on how to replace the drive belt and maybe other parts there abouts. It won't go up much of any incline. It just slips in about every gear. It's a little better in 3rd but not much. Does that sound like slipping drive belt? Maybe it needs a new tensioner spring?


#2

gfp55

gfp55

I just bought an older Yard-Man garden tractor and I didn't get any doc with it. I found the model and serial # on the tag under the seat but I suspect it may not be the original seat. The reason I suspect that is because I own a Yard-Machines garden tractor that I have doc for and both seats have the exact same model/serial number which is 13BQ695H352 - 1C028H30215. When I try to find doc based on that model/serial even if I specify Yard-Man all I can find is doc for the Yard-Machines. The Yard-Machines has Hydrostatic trans, 46" deck and standard steer. The Yard-Man is 7 speed trans, 42" deck and is 4-wheel steer. Can anyone help me find the model/serial and/or documentation?

I want to read up on how to replace the drive belt and maybe other parts there abouts. It won't go up much of any incline. It just slips in about every gear. It's a little better in 3rd but not much. Does that sound like slipping drive belt? Maybe it needs a new tensioner spring?
Could you post some pictures of the machine you are talking about and we may be able to help. Good front, back, both sides, under hood. Also give more info about tractor like engine size, trans type, belt drive or shaft, stuff like that.


#3

W

Winch

Could you post some pictures of the machine you are talking about and we may be able to help. Good front, back, both sides, under hood. Also give more info about tractor like engine size, trans type, belt drive or shaft, stuff like that.

I talked to MTD support and with the engine info they said it is a 1996 Yard-Man Model series 614. It should be model 1361614G401. They had the Owner's manual and the pic looks like mine. The book says the model and serial number can be found on the upper portion of the rear frame but I can't find it. Where would that be? Would it be stamped into the frame or should there be a plate of some kind? I could send some pics but the hood and sides are off it so not much help there. It has a 15.5 hp Briggs. Reading the manual on replacing drive belts looks complicated. Does it sound like belts is what is needed? There are 2 drive belts. Do both usually need to be replaced?


#4

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Changing the two drive belt system can be a pain in the rear. Just think about what you are doing and going step by step. think about if I move this or remove that what will happen. the other thing is you need to replace both belts at once. they have to sync to work properly, and a worn belt will throw things off. the other thing is make sure you use OEM belts, otherwise you will be inviting trouble down the road.


#5

Carscw

Carscw

Take pics before you start and as you move things around.

And as ILENGINE said use OEM belts and replace both. I can not stress this enough.


#6

gfp55

gfp55

Changing the two drive belt system can be a pain in the rear. Just think about what you are doing and going step by step. think about if I move this or remove that what will happen. the other thing is you need to replace both belts at once. they have to sync to work properly, and a worn belt will throw things off. the other thing is make sure you use OEM belts, otherwise you will be inviting trouble down the road.

Take pics before you start and as you move things around.

And as ILENGINE said use OEM belts and replace both. I can not stress this enough.
Both these guys ILENGINE and Carscw are telling you the truth, both belts need to be replace with OEM to do the job right.


#7

W

Winch

Both these guys ILENGINE and Carscw are telling you the truth, both belts need to be replace with OEM to do the job right.

OK. With the manual I have I may attempt this. When I'm getting new belts I will ask what they would charge then decide if it's worth attempting.

I sure wish I could find the model number on it to be sure. The manual says it is on the upper portion of the rear frame. Anybody know where exactly that should be?


#8

Carscw

Carscw

OK. With the manual I have I may attempt this. When I'm getting new belts I will ask what they would charge then decide if it's worth attempting. I sure wish I could find the model number on it to be sure. The manual says it is on the upper portion of the rear frame. Anybody know where exactly that should be?

I have sanded down mtd frames and have never seen a model number.

Doing the belts is not really hard. You just need to look and remember how everything goes.

I the pulley that both belts go on ( the variable speed pulley ) if you just loosing the guide pins it helps to slide the belts on.


#9

W

Winch

I have sanded down mtd frames and have never seen a model number.

Doing the belts is not really hard. You just need to look and remember how everything goes.

I the pulley that both belts go on ( the variable speed pulley ) if you just loosing the guide pins it helps to slide the belts on.

Reading the manual makes it look like just replacing both belts is not that hard but doing the speed control adjustment looks more complicated. Does that adjustment always have to be done?


#10

Carscw

Carscw

Reading the manual makes it look like just replacing both belts is not that hard but doing the speed control adjustment looks more complicated. Does that adjustment always have to be done?

I have never had to do a speed control adjustment.
But it really is not that hard.

Put the belts on then with the Engine running put the F-N-R lever on the N
Start at first gear and one at a time shift to high Gear then back down to first.
This will help set the belts.


#11

W

Winch

I have never had to do a speed control adjustment.
But it really is not that hard.

Put the belts on then with the Engine running put the F-N-R lever on the N
Start at first gear and one at a time shift to high Gear then back down to first.
This will help set the belts.

To make sure I understand: I start in 1st gear, shift to 7th gear then back to 1st. Then shift to 2nd gear, up to 7th then back to 1st? Then shift to 3rd gear, up to 7th then back to 1st and so on through all 7 gears?


#12

Carscw

Carscw

To make sure I understand: I start in 1st gear, shift to 7th gear then back to 1st. Then shift to 2nd gear, up to 7th then back to 1st? Then shift to 3rd gear, up to 7th then back to 1st and so on through all 7 gears?



Shift 1-2-3-4-5-6-7
7-6-5-4-3-2-1

Or you can just put it in 7th gear and push the clutch/brakes pedal down and up a couple times slow.


#13

B

BRubble

I sure wish I could find the model number on it to be sure. The manual says it is on the upper portion of the rear frame. Anybody know where exactly that should be?

On my '88, the Model and S/N, is located topside next to the battery. It's just a Sticker,, so it may have came unstuck and fell off. Mine is still on since '88.

If your Rear Axle is lubricated with Grease, now would be a good time to grease it.

Good Luck


#14

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

OK. With the manual I have I may attempt this. When I'm getting new belts I will ask what they would charge then decide if it's worth attempting.

I sure wish I could find the model number on it to be sure. The manual says it is on the upper portion of the rear frame. Anybody know where exactly that should be?

The MTD flat rate time for this repair is 1 hour. That is if everything goes right, which most if the time it doesn't, the biggest culprit is the engine pulley and getting it loose to install the belt. so you could easily get charged more than the hour time, and mtd times are somewhat unrealistic on some repairs.


#15

W

Winch

I finally got around to replacing the drive belts. What a hassle. Trying to get the front belt over the rear pulley and in between those pins was a b&(^*. I finally got it on there only to realize I let the belt go under a bar across the frame. This time I could not get the belt over the deck pulley in the front. The manual just says take the bolt off that pulley and let it slide down from the shaft. I'm pretty sure you need a puller. So I disconnected the belt from the rear again but then I realized if you let up the parking brake the rear pulley combo shifts back and lets the belt go on the bottom pulley go on easy! I had it back together in 15 minutes and now it works like a champ.

Thanks everyone


#16

mhavanti

mhavanti

1996 Year Model most likely. Model should be 1361614G701.


Top