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So I picked up this machine and when I prime it, it will start and then die, unless I keep priming. I have been through the carb 3 times. I have cleaned carbs before. I note that the two plastic plugs that cover the holes where you stick the screw driver to screw in the screws that mount the carburetor - are missing. I feel it is taking in too much air. Isn't that why they have the plugs? The plugs are part number 611545, see highlighted part below. I am going to try and rig
up some temporary plugs and see if that resolves my issue. Thanks for any hints.

Those plugs are installed on some carbs to stop dirt from entering the air cleaner from the back side. Really have no value is changing the amount of air entering the engine. I suspect that you will need to clean and rebuild the carb, replacing the float needle and seat. You must also check and adjust the float level.

Thanks Rivets, you are correct, I doubt that has anything to do with my issue. Maybe I need to turn on the gas shutoff....

That seems to have cured the issue. ? Although it seems to surge for the first minute of running, then it smooths out.

Any adjustments I need to make on the carb? I think these type of mowers go for quite a bit used, would I be correct?

By shutting off the fuel supply, you are just charging the amount of fuel entering the carb, not really fixing the problem. These carbs have no adjustments and because they are so cheap, it costs my customers less to replace and to try to clean and rebuild. The only thing that you might want to try is to run a few tanks of fuel through the engine, with some good fuel addictive, such as SeaFoam to possibly clean the carb.

I'll try some Seafoam. I looked for a replacement carb parts and don't find any. Can you point me to a source?

Please post the model and serial numbers from both the mower and engine so we can see what you have. That way we can advise you how to proceed.

I have a Model 10546 Serial 6901101. See the attached photo and screenshot of information I found on it.

Looks like you need to try a carburetor overhaul and even then some of the parts are not available.

https://www.partstree.com/models/10...6900001-006999999-1996/carburetor-assembly-1/

Part number I suggest you get is 92-9697 when rebuilding the carb. This manual should be of some help. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html

I may try and post a video of it starting up. I can't remember how these typically behave. Here is how it is behaving:

- I turn the gas valve on
- Note, it is 40 degrees out right now
- I prime two or three times and pull it two or three and it starts
- I usually have to push the primer a couple of times or it will die
- It seems to do some surging and then smooths out after about a 30 seconds - 1 minute
- It then runs nice and strong

Normal? My dad bought a LB in 1971 that is still in use today. My brothers and I mowed a ton of lawns with it. I think it is on it's third magnesium deck. I seem to remember that when I started that one I had to press the primer on top of it a couple of times after it would first start to keep it running. That was many years ago. So possibly what I am experiencing might be 100% normal. I will be selling this machine and I want to make sure it is in good condition.

What is the ambient temperature around you now. I’ve seen if it is below 60 degrees the way you state you have to start the unit is normal. Second, with today’s gas these units are very touchy with their fuel/oil ratios. I advise my customers to use Opti synthetic 2-cycle oil, which works in a variety of conditions.

Right now it is 35 degrees. So I am starting to think what I am experiencing is normal. I will be heading out in the next hour and will try a cold start and note everything I do and how it behaves and report back. My gas is clean (sealed clean can - likley 10% ethanol) and relatively fresh < 4 months old, sealed up, Stabil, and Quaker State's 2-Cycle oil. Not a higher end version (i.e. no synthetic).

Being 35 degrees you’re doing good. Only thing is at 4 months I consider that old, tell customers if it is over 30 days, dump in your vehicle and get fresh. Two cycle fuel is only used in a one gallon can to keep it fresh.

Ok, the link below is about a 2 minutes video of me starting it this morning. You should be able to see the video from my DropBox folder. Let me know if you can't.

- It is about 40 degrees outside
- You will see me turn on the gas valve and then fiddle with the controls
- I prime it 3 times
- Starts on the first pull
- (1st Die) Starts to die and I prime it twice, it continues
- (2nd Die) Starts to die and I prime it once or twice again, it continues
- (3rd "Almost" Die) Starts to die a third time but it fixes itself, it continues
- (4th Die) Starts to die and I prime it once
- It no longer dies after this point. I would say the engine sounds mostly normal about 1:40 seconds after being started

My question is this what you would consider normal?

With these temperatures I would consider it close to normal, using old gas. If it came into the shop this way, I would recommend as I stated before, clean and rebuild the carb. Remember I am working in a shop, the customer doesn’t think it is running right, so I’m would be telling the customer I’m pretty sure I can make it start and run better by rebuilding the carb. It would be his decision whether to wait til the weather warms up and try it, or just rebuild it now.

Rivets, thank you for all your help. Yes, I think we are close to normal now. I am going to stop fussing with it now. Take care.

You are describing a lean start. Does it have a 'choke' position on the throttle, and are you using it to start and warm up?