I got the bolt out and it won't budge so I took the hood and grill off in order to get a clutch puller on it. The exhaust guard is in the way so I kind of angled the puller so I wouldn't have to remove the entire exhaust. I tightened the puller to the point of bending the pully and that dang clutch still won't budge.
At the shaft where you removed the bolt, is the ID of the clutch threaded? If it is you have a clutch that is EASY to remove. Using a common bolt that fits that thread, when you screw it into the center of the clutch it pushes against the end of the shaft... thus pushing the clutch assembly off.
If it is not threaded you will have to use a puller that fits squarely in front of the shaft. Tighten it tight and then give it a sharp blow with a heavy hammer.
With either type it is best to spray a penetrating lube like PB Blaster, into the end of the shaft before attempting to remove. KennyV
#3
Rooster7
Hey Thanks! The ID is threaded and I'll give it a whirl tonight. I took my clutch off my ATV a few years ago the same way. Not sure why it didn't dawn on me to do it here. :mur:
The OD of the shaft has a key that keys into the ID of the clutch assembly.
There is a bolt and washer that hold the clutch assembly onto the shaft.
On a lot of electric clutches The shaft is not flush with the end of the shaft. The shaft is usually 1/2 inch or so short of being flush. In that recess ON the ID of the clutch there are threads... the only propose for those threads is to use during removal.
You simply screw a bolt into the threads ON the clutch... the end of that bolt makes contact with the end of the shaft, turning the bolt in will push the assembly off the shaft.
If your clutch assembly has no threads on the ID you can not do it this way.
If this still makes no sense I will try to find a picture of this procedure... KennyV
Know what you are saying about grass growing... It's wet and things are green.
#11
Rooster7
Kenny,
It did not have the threads you were talking about. I put two breaker bars on either side of the clutch and braced my feet on the tires and just started rocking it back and forth and it wiggled free! I installed the new one, tested it, put everything back together, sharpened the blades, found out the idler pulley assy and bearing were toast, replaced that, put the deck back on and was ready to mow but then.....
Once I started the deck up it made a racket. Shut it down and checked. Everything looked good. Started the deck again and....well long story short, the center blade is HITTING the blade on the right (discharge or curb) side. I pulled the deck off and confirmed the blades are indeed engaging each other by looking at the flat spots on each end of the blades. The wife said it was making "tinking" noises after she accidently ran over a rock the last time she mowed (before all this happened).
I can't figure this one out. The spindles are all ok. They have not moved. The blades do not come in contact with each other when turning by hand but when run with the power of the PTO, they hit. There is an inch of clearance between the center blade and the left (roadside) blade and only a 1/4 inch between the center blade and the right (curb) side blade. I know that when the PTO is engaged, the centrifugal force causes the blades cutting area to expand but what could have gotten bent so bad the blades are hitting each other?
Sorry so long but this is frustrating and I wanted to get as much detail in as possible.
I suspect your deck is bowed...
Or one or more spindles are not mounted tight and square to the deck. I am not familiar with that deck... How heavy is it?
KennyV
#13
Rooster7
It is a pretty heavy duty deck. This is not a box store cub cadet. It's built a little more solid than those.
Something has to be wrong with the deck... You could spin the blades at 10,000 RPM and they will NOT change length...
Either the spindles are changing angles (check that they are securely bolted down) OR the deck is bowed or cracked allowing it to flex under load.
#15
Rooster7
Ha! I know that they won't change length.
Well after having everything apart several time yesterday, I decided to mow a couple rounds to see if the problem "straightened itself out". Tractor cut nice even with the blades contacting every few seconds. Then the drive belt exploded...
I'm at a loss. I may have to admit defeat and bring it in to a service center. :ashamed:
WHOA before you break the engine! The Kohler clutch has a double locking system. There a THREE allen head set screws ON TOP OF three more allen head set screws. The outermost set screws are just locks for the set screws that hold the clutch assembly to the crankshaft.
I've got three broken blocks out in the shed that people have used pullers, hammers, and touchs on.
