Well I'm still trying to get the dang flywheel off. I have some time today so I got a bigger wrench and a better cheater bar. I'm using a 3 prong puller and I feel like I'm going to break something. I have the nut removed - not sure what else could be wrong. Why are these flywheels bonded so strongly to the motor???
Honda Mower Seized Piston
- Thread starter NJDan
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Try lightly tapping on the flywheel and puller with a hammer, while the puller has pressure on the flywheel. sometimes it needs a jar to release from the tapered crankshaft end.
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It is normal for them to stick a little. Matter of fact if you working some the specs I deal with like 300 ft/lbs or higher it then joints can be cold welded.
First make sure you using grade 8 (10.9 for metric) screws. Tighten the puller forcing screw up really good and tight then using a heavy brass hammer strike the end of the forcing screw. It may take repeats of tightening and smacking but it should bounce the flywheel off the taper.
First make sure you using grade 8 (10.9 for metric) screws. Tighten the puller forcing screw up really good and tight then using a heavy brass hammer strike the end of the forcing screw. It may take repeats of tightening and smacking but it should bounce the flywheel off the taper.
Well the flywheel came off. It just needed a longer cheater bar. I am trying to remove only what is necessary to figure out if the engine is recoverable. I haven't done this before so I will have some stupid questions if some of you will help me out. For instance do these plastic restraints need to be cut off or can they be removed and reused?
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Not to beat you up but, boy you are tough on equiptment. Before starting any piece of equiptment look it over and check the oil before proceeding. If you need to refill the gasoline tank while using recheck the oil . Same with an automobile when you fill the tank,pop the hood give a look see and check the oil.
Maybe better luck in the New Yearwith a new mower Be well!
Maybe better luck in the New Yearwith a new mower Be well!
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Oh darn, he ran one mower engine low on oil.
While I agree with most of the assessments on impacts, a QUALITY air impact will do everything needed to be done on lawn equipment and then some. Note I say 'quality' -impact wrench. This may be a moot point as they are disconiued but used ones are around. A Snap-On IM32 butterfly impact with 90+psi will twist a 3/8 grade 5 bolt in two. If one has and uses air tools in their shop,they will never regret buying an IM32. While other 3/8 inch impacts are toys,this one is a serious pro tool. These sold new for near $400 and when bought used,can usually be sold for as much or even more that the used purchase price,too.
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Those pieces on the wires can sometimes be re-used if the 'christmas' tree part isn't too beat up. If they will not go back into the hole they came out of and hold securely they must be replaced,otherwise ruining the wires is a likely possibility. What I do in such cases is to use a zip tie on the wire(s). A lot of times ,if clearance is an issue,I'll take a zip tie,run it through the hole and around the wires and then back through the hole and then through the zip eye,being sure the zip eye itself is big enough to not go through the hole.
Lack of oil galled the crank and broke the rod,maybe?
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Usually that what happens. Without oil on the journal the aluminum rod starts to melt transfering aluminum to the crankshaft journal. Even if oil is refilled the aluminum transfer just keeps getting worst via fiction. Until it reaches a point of either super heating the rod (melting the rod) or seizing the rod (which snaps the rod).