Thanks for the response.All that you need to do to have the drive working well is to lubricate the ratchets with some dry lithium chassis grease at the end of each season
While this is a PIA job because access is not easy, most of my customers have no problems doing it.
Water & mowers do not mix. particular if you have just finished mowing so parts are hot
Use an air duster to clean off the mower and never a pressure washer or even a high pressure nozzel on a garden tap.
Mowers are not designed to be used under water so things like the wheel drive mechanism is not water tight.
When you take the mower to an authorised daler, they will replace all parts that show wear thus many parts that are still within service limits get replaced so when it leave their shop it is returned to as near to "as new" condition as they can make it.
The contractors pull the wheels off weekly in season ~ 40 to 60 hours mowing.
Then they blow out the drive spray some grease in there rebuild the wheel and it is good to go for another week or so
Most do it weekly when they change the blades, some stretch it out to monthly.
Ratchet pinions last them around 3 season for the aftermarket ones or 4 seasons for the genuine Honda ones .
The major problem they have is tyres wearing bald so most go through a set of drive wheels every second season.
None of them ever wash their mowers.
I would need to pull my phone book stack of service tickets and receipts to confirm.Have the bushings that support the drive shaft been replaced?
What cracker-jack engineer designed the piece-of-crap self-propelled mechanics on the Honda HRR2169VYA self-propelled mower?
It worked flawlessly and marvelously the first few years, but since then, I wouldn’t recommend a Honda lawn mower to my worst enemy.
I literally cannot even make it 4 times around my 80 x 110 lot without one or the other self-propelled drive wheels “jamming up,” stop turning, resulting in me having to stop and put this piece of crap mower back together or hauling it to my local “authorized Honda dealer” for repair.
The issue? When I mow, one or the other of the self-propelled drive rear wheels “lock up”, resulting in my having to stop, shut off the mower, and push it to my garage.
The fix? I contact my local authorized Honda service center, haul this piece of crap mower over to them, pay countless dollars to them to replace not once … not twice ... but three times now a whole array of parts.
Viewing my receipts, here are the parts that have been replaced way too frickin’ many times, using genuine Honda parts:
Rear wheels PN 42710-VE2-M02ZE
Rear pinion gears 42661-VE2-800
Thrust washers PN 90502-VE2-800
Circlips PN 90651-VE2-800
Pinion gear collars PN 91559-VE2--800
Ratchet keys PN 42672-VE2-800
And … since it was all torn down, the drive belt as well once
Even after all of the above work and part replacements, I still cannot make it around my 80 x 110 more than 4 or 5 times without one or the other self-propelled drive wheels “jamming up,” stop turning, and resulting in me having to pull the offending wheel off and finding the circlip, washers, and pinion gears off the axle and ripping the “hades” out of the plastic splines of the offending wheel!!!
This mower is a bottomless money pit. I have a mechanical background and even after having the “experts” service this piece of crap mower, I’ve never seen anything so poorly engineered as this piece of crap!!!
P.S.
I thoroughly wash and clean my mower after each mowing.
I religiously change the oil in it annually.
For many, if not most it's a good mower. Given the wrong circumstances or conditions it's a heap.I have used this mower for 11 trouble free years, and have recommended this mower to many.
Here's a great video of one of the issues:The real fix
If you cannot repair stuff like this on your own and have to pay dealer service $$ is it worth it?
Don't bet on it. They have been selling this setup since the 90's....this thread below has a lot of good info and solutions presented to help hopefully permanently fix this design flaw from Honda.
Don't bet on it. They have been selling this setup since the 90's.
Glad you have found a resolution.I do thank those who responded with possible remedies to my issue. It is a shame no on from Honda so much as acknowledged any of my pleas for help I sent them. I filed that under "Honda Provides Great Customer Service" ... /sarc
As I have stated within this chain of messages, I have both attempted to resolve this issue myself numerous times and I have also taken it to an "authorized Honda service center" several times. Nothing resolved my issue.
UNTIL NOW ....
Yesterday I pulled both wheels of my mower, I cut two pieces of steel pipe I had on hand to a length equal to the width of the pinion gears, removed the ratchet keys, and replaced the pinion gear on each side with a piece of pipe.
My mower is no longer self-propelled, but for the first time in nearly two years I was able to mow my lawn without having to stop and reassemble all the components behind one or the other wheels. This will get me by until I do my research and purchase a new mower... and I can guarantee you that it will not be a Honda.
Yeah. I was responding to the post of the habitual honda shaft locking up.Have you read the thread?
For clarity, I never had any issues pulling the mower backwards. After making 4 -6 laps around my 80 x 110 yard, either the left or right wheel would stop turning while pushing the mower forward. When I removed the wheel, all of the components between the wheel and cover would be off the axle entirely and either be "jammed" into the plastic "fins"inside the wheel or lose.It almost sounds like you had a manufacturing flaw where the deck was manufactured incorrectly. I've not known them to just "fall apart" to where you can't complete the mow. Having issues pulling the mower backwards is a real design flaw, but doesn't prevent it from being used. The only thing that I have seen that's kind of like that is if the circlips on the adjusters wear and allow the adjuster to come loose. New circlips solve that issue easily though. Either way - I completely understand avoiding Honda in the future. Good luck and hope you find a good setup for you.
They definitely do not build them like they used to. When I purchased this Honda, I gave my son my old Lawn Chief? (I think that was the brand). I bought the Lawn Chief new in 1981 and it is still running and operating great for my son to this day.Glad you have found a resolution.
It is too bad to hear about your troubles with this newer Honda, I suspect if you have had the long term experience with the older more robust models such as the HR series from the 80's you would feel much different about the quality of Honda. I have two HR series mowers, 214 SX and 215 SX that IMHO nothing else compares to today.
For clarity, I never had any issues pulling the mower backwards. After making 4 -6 laps around my 80 x 110 yard, either the left or right wheel would stop turning while pushing the mower forward. When I removed the wheel, all of the components between the wheel and cover would be off the axle entirely and either be "jammed" into the plastic "fins"inside the wheel or lose.
Also, I never, ever, reuse circlips. I always replace them with new ones.
I gave the lawn mower that I used before I purchased this Honda to my son. That mower, a Lawn Chief if I remember correctly, was purchased new by me in 1981, always gets washed after each mowing, and is still running and operating great to this day (39 years!). Unless we are relegated to mowing on only 100% moisture free lawns and days, a mower better be built to withstand moisture and water. If not, it only offers evidence of poor quality, craftsmanship and materials.Absolutely no water as bertsmobile1 said. Your Operators Manual does not say to wash mower with water. Over time water will destroy mechanical & electrical parts on any mower. I use a handheld leaf blower on my lawn tractor. I have a 1990 Honda HR215SXA self propelled mower that I purchased new & still runs strong. If you're not satisfied with Honda, sell yours & purchase a Toro, Snapper, etc. after researching & trying them out, just don't use water. Let us know what you decide to go with, thanks,Mark
I wouldn't wish this Honda heap on anyone, not even my worst enemy. It's going straight to the scrap heap.Push it to the curb. There are better mowers out there.
slomo
Baseball cleats ... great idea. I have one spot in my yard with a fairly steep gradeBizarre- I’ve never seen that and lord knows my mower has seen some serious hills and stress put on it. I have to wear baseball cleats to mow my yard. I really think something was off in the machining of your deck or something crazy like that. It’s a shame Honda didn’t step up and just replace the unit.
Trouble is the GCV160 is not powerful. I just mowed with a Snapper Commercial GXV160 that bogged in my yard. Also installed a brand new Oregon 99-121 blade. I would look for a 190cc Briggs. Those Briggs Professional 8.50 and 8.75 torque monsters is what I would look for. Course your grass might not be Tifway Bermuda like mine. This is by far the densest grass out there. It's super fine bladed Bermuda. People think St. Augustine is tough to cut. My cousin in Florida has it. Stuff cuts like butter. You might get away with a GCV160 in your yard. Honda makes a 200+cc engine now. It's close to a Briggs 190cc in torque. Try that one.As a few people have mentioned, the design of the shaft, bushing and gear system for the self propelled system on the later model Honda mowers is not great but it doesn't mean that it is bad either. There may have definitely been something defective with your mower from the get-go, and if nothing can be done to permanently fix the issue, then it is time to move on. As with all consumer products, your experience speaks for you only. Others may have similar experiences, but in this case there are likely many more that their's is nothing like yours. Despite your unfortunate luck with the HRR, Honda does make a good product. Reading the horror story that you have so nicely illustrated, I would still buy another Honda mower. Why? Because nearly 15 years of owning Honda mowers and have never had a problem.
Go out an buy a new Toro Super Recycler WITH the Honda engine. Your experience with Honda and their "poor engineering" has to do with their drive train, and not so much their engines. The GCV160 is plenty powerful, quiet and fuel efficient. Plenty of options out there my friend but this alternative would be a good one.
I have a love list of my personal dislikes about Honda mowers. I've owned many (then sold) Honda's and used many.I wouldn't wish this Honda heap on anyone, not even my worst enemy. It's going straight to the scrap heap.
I have a love list of my personal dislikes about Honda mowers. I've owned many (then sold) Honda's and used many.
1.They do NOT bag like a Snapper.
2.They don't mulch like a Snapper or Toro Super Recycler.
3.Mower price is generally higher than most.
4.The dumping grass at your feet and legs when discharging is a "wonderful" idea (sarcasm).
5.Replacement parts are pretty stiff.
6.All the many levers you have to hold while mowing. It's a mower not a Cessna aircraft.
7.That shaft drive and that Hydro transmission is ultra expensive to repair. Ask my neighbor. Price some of those parts out for yourself.
8.Well know can't back up issues on every mower forum.
9.Having to use what I call a "power strap" in tall grass. That is a bungee cord connected to the handlebar on one end and the other directly to the throttle. Engage the blade and tighten the bungee.
I will say they make good engines. Not class leading in torque but will last a good bit. For me, Honda's just don't perform. Lots of people have good luck with them.
slomo