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Hi,
I have the HRX 217 Mower about 3 years old and notice when it sits a couple of week, is hard to start or won't start.

Tried to start it today and it would not start.

Checked the Auto Choke and it is working (Butterfly Closed)

Pulled the spark plug and it is wet but noticed the end of the spark plug and the electrod/post, is black with soot.

Cleaned it on my wire wheel put it back in and started first pull!

Is this just a need for a new spark plug or is there something else going on???

The auto choke is failing and not opening fully when hot.
This causes the mower to run slightly rich which cokes up the end of the plug
Carbon is a good conductor so the spark runs through the soot & not across the gap
Thus it won't start .

Hi,
Thanks, I'll look at that!

Maybe the Thermo Wax Pellet is bad or the Throttle Assembly is stiff?

Saw this on the Governor, but will check the throttle first.

Thanks again!

Hi,
Well, looked at the Mower this Morning and checked the butterfly choke...

Closed when cold and wide open when hot...

Checked the RPM's and it is running 3100 RPM's which is to spec.

Everything LOOKS good but the spark plug is still carboned up after running a few minutes???

Maybe the oil level is to high, I'll look at that, just thought of it here typing!

Hi,
Well, the Engine Oil, was over full. so pulled it out to the correct level, and will try that!

Rub the old oil between your fingers then rub the clean new oil between your fingers.
The old oil should feel thicker
If the old oil feels thin and has the slightest odour of fuel to it , drain the engine & change the oil.
Fuel dribbles into engines because the bowl vent is higher than the venturi outlet .
So if the float valve fails to cut off the fuel supply 100% the level in the bowl rises then the fuel runs up the venturi tube & dribbles down the carb throat into the engine.

This is all EPA stuff.
The vent has to be higher to prevent fuel dripping outside onto the mower ( where you would see & smell it so become aware of the problem )
The carbs all slope down into the engine so the fuel has no option but to dribble into the cylinder ( where you can not see it ) .

I fail to understand how this reduces pollution but I am not a law maker .

Hi,
Thanks for the help Bert!

No doubt also, why they have a fuel cut off switch installed, that I need to remember to use!!!

I'll check the oil!

Hi,
I looked at the oil and will change it tomorrow.

Is there anyway to keep the fuel from going into these engines???

Turn off the fuel tap where fitted
Where not fitted add one then get into the habit of turning it off & starving the engine off
The last few revolutions of very lean running will burn the plug clean so you get easier starting and no fuel contamination of the oil.
In theory the float valve should work
In practice you only need a tiny piece of dust to get stuck between the valve & the seat to cause a leak.
I have a 1927 motorcycle that has a rusty tank .
Rust regularly will cause the float to fail
Running the engine dry then opening the fuel tap usually clears it up

Hi,
Fantastic!

Thanks Bert, at least there is something I can do!

Thanks again, for your hard won knowledge!!!

Hi,
Well to put a cap on this, I changed the oil and then ran the Mower.

Shut the gas and starved it out...

An hour later I went back turned the gas on and it cranked on the first pull!

Sooooo....Thanks again Bert, I can mow now and not have to worry about starting or harming my engine!

The fuel cut off is a double edge sword for storage. I have an ancient Honda Snowblower and for many years I stored it by turning off the fuel and running it dry. Unfortunately you never get all the fuel out of the bowl. With the introduction of ethanol I began to have issues. The ethanol wicks in moist air and caused the bowl to oxidize ?. I cleaned it thoroughly, began using stable and leaving the fuel in the on position when I stored it. I haven’t had a problem since. The caveat is if if you have an issue in the carb it will fill the sump/oil with fuel.

Hi,
Well, I don't use ethanol gas in my lawn stuff, I pay a little extra for the non variety and feel it evens out by not having to work on carbs so much!

You might want to see where in your area you can get non ethanol from a pump in your area, not really that much more, that way.

Being a Honda certified mechanic, My prognosis is the choke mechanism isn't the issue, when the engine is shut down the governor is trying to wide open because it's rpms aren't related to throttle position. No one will tell you to pull throttle to idle position for about a minute before stopping. Other manufacturers inform consumers either.
If you watch governor control at shutoff it try's to wide open throttle to compensate

DOB said:

No one will tell you to pull throttle to idle position for about a minute before stopping. Other manufacturers inform consumers either.

Click to expand...

Are you saying to pull the throttle to idle before turning off?

DOB said:

Being a Honda certified mechanic, My prognosis is the choke mechanism isn't the issue, when the engine is shut down the governor is trying to wide open because it's rpms aren't related to throttle position. No one will tell you to pull throttle to idle position for about a minute before stopping. Other manufacturers inform consumers either.
If you watch governor control at shutoff it try's to wide open throttle to compensate

Click to expand...

Hi,
Well, there is no throttle on my mower, so...

"Idle" does not really come into the picture for me???

seagiant said:

Hi,
Well, I don't use ethanol gas in my lawn stuff, I pay a little extra for the non variety and feel it evens out by not having to work on carbs so much!

You might want to see where in your area you can get non ethanol from a pump in your area, not really that much more, that way.

Click to expand...

Glad you are able to source non-ethanol fuel nearby. Unfortunately, where I am the only game in town are the box stores. When I do the math, it’s about $24/gl. Given all the power equipment I own I would have to take out a second mortgage ?