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I have a Honda Harmony 215. It is a HRM, self propelled, hydrostatic, blade brake clutch and poly deck. The rear wheels have fallen apart on me and most of the rubber has peeled off so I am needing to get new ones. Where is a good place to order?
I checked one place and the part number my mower shows is 42710-VE2-800 but the price is $50 per wheel.
I checked another part number 42710-VG3-B00 and it was priced $12 per wheel. There are other rear wheel part numbers too so I was wondering what the difference was and would either part # work on my mower?

Those are not the same tires by 3 inches. model number and i can check

Ok sounds like I should go with the part # 42710-VE2-800. I found them on amazon for $43 or $44 per wheel with free shipping. That seems to be worth it to me as I believe this mower will last another 20 years.

I was going to tell you the same thing about where to buy them.

I placed my order today, got free shipping. Came out to $88.52 total. Cheapest I could find them. The Honda will be good to go soon.

I have another question. When I engage the blades I have to engage them really slowly or the motor will stall. It acts like the clutch or something is locking up or dragging. What would be causing this?

javjacob said:

I have another question. When I engage the blades I have to engage them really slowly or the motor will stall. It acts like the clutch or something is locking up or dragging. What would be causing this?

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Sounds like your clutch is dirty

exotion said:

Sounds like your clutch is dirty

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How do I fix that? Just take it apart and clean it? Im not even sure how to get to it though. I have decent mechanical skills but I know nothing about these mowers.

javjacob said:

How do I fix that? Just take it apart and clean it? Im not even sure how to get to it though. I have decent mechanical skills but I know nothing about these mowers.

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I would try some compressed air between the two plates

javjacob said:

I have another question. When I engage the blades I have to engage them really slowly or the motor will stall. It acts like the clutch or something is locking up or dragging. What would be causing this?

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The engine must be running at full, wide-open throttle when engaging the blades. Even then, it will slow and bog down a bit, but should not stall. I'd double-check the throttle cable and use a tachometer to confirm the engine speeds is set correctly. With the blades engaged, the engine speed with the throttle set to FAST should be 3,150~3,300 RPM.

I'll bet it is an engine-speed issue that is causing the stalling, as most clutch problems are wear-related, and would not typically cause the engine to stall.

Finally, when engaging the blades, try and position the mower on freshly-mowed grass, or a sidewalk / driveway. Trying to engage the blades when the mower is in unmowed or very tall grass will also stall the engine, especially if the mower height is set low.

I engage the blades on my driveway at full throttle. It sounds like it is revved up where it should be. The mower is clean and the deck is clean so there is nothing there to bog it down. Its weird, I literally have to take a good 20-30 seconds to engage the blades slowly or it will stall out. If I have the motor off and engage the blades lever and then start it, it will start up fairly easy.

It could be carb, you could have a plugged jet, and when load is introduced to the engine, it dies because it isn't getting enough fuel.

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I don't think that's it. It only has trouble when engaging the blades. I can be mowing tall grass where it is working hard and it has no problems, only when engaging the blades. Acts like the blades are not wanting to turn freely and wants to stall the motor but once the blades get going it runs just fine.

javjacob said:

I don't think that's it. It only has trouble when engaging the blades. I can be mowing tall grass where it is working hard and it has no problems, only when engaging the blades. Acts like the blades are not wanting to turn freely and wants to stall the motor but once the blades get going it runs just fine.

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The wear areas of the blade clutch would usually not cause excessive load on the engine, in fact, if worn enough, they would not engage fully but slip and the blades would not match engine speed. Of course, there could be some other damaged or failed parts in the clutch assembly. Honda has very detailed paper shop manual that provides fully disassembly and inspection details of the Roto-Stop (blade clutch) mechanism. The manuals are available on eBay and Amazon.com direct from Honda (free shipping). You may need the serial number off the back of the mower's deck to get to correct manual.

Ok so that would be like a parts fiche? I will have to check that out. I went out in the garage and tried turning the blades by hand and they were very hard to turn and I could only move them about a inch or 2. I tried turning the blades on my John Deere 345 for comparison and they turned freely by hand.

javjacob said:

Ok so that would be like a parts fiche? I will have to check that out. I went out in the garage and tried turning the blades by hand and they were very hard to turn and I could only move them about a inch or 2. I tried turning the blades on my John Deere 345 for comparison and they turned freely by hand.

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The Shop Manual for your Honda Harmony 215 can be found by searching ebay or amazon for "Honda Harmony HR215 Shop Manual" I think they are about $35.00 or so. Really nice to have when doing repairs, and very detailed. Not just parts drawings, but full procedures and steps included.

It is normal for the blades to be hard to turn when the engine is off, and for this mower, when the blade clutch is released.

This is because all modern mowers have a blade brake. The purpose of the blade brake is to stop the blade from turning in 2 seconds or less when you let go of the handle. This is safety requirement on all USA mowers made in the last 25+ years.

Now most mowers don't have a clutch (they cost more), and instead just shut off the engine, but still need a brake to stop the blade quickly.

Your HR215 does have a clutch, and when you let go, the engine stays running, but the blades are disconnected (clutch) and a brake is applied to stop the blades < 2 seconds. If there was no brake, the blades would "spin down" like a helicopter shutting down, and the moving blades would be a hazard.

should the blade brake release when the motor is idling then? Maybe the brake isn't releasing? Or maybe a bearing is going bad? I might just take it apart and inspect all the parts if its not too hard to do. Sounds like that's what I might have to do.

javjacob said:

should the blade brake release when the motor is idling then? Maybe the brake isn't releasing? Or maybe a bearing is going bad?

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The brake releases and the clutch engages when you push down on the yellow button and then hold the blade lever against the handlebar. When you let go, the clutch releases and the brake engages. This is the same if the engine is on or off.

javjacob said:

I might just take it apart and inspect all the parts if its not too hard to do. Sounds like that's what I might have to do.

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Great idea; the shop manual will step you through it, including inspection of the wear surfaces on the clutch, etc.

Ok thank you for all the help. I will check all that out.

Update, I tried turning the blades with the lever engaged that engages the blades and the blades turn freely. I was expecting it to turn rough but it is smooth. I cant imagine what it is unless it really is the engine RPMs needs to be adjusted up. I will give that a try in the morning.

Tried it out this morning and it is better. I can engage the blades in around 10 seconds where before it took a good 30 - 40 seconds. Will still stall if I engage the blades quickly though. Maybe that is just how these mowers are? I cant adjust the RPMs up any more without losing the choke. I can live with it the way it is if there is nothing I can do. Wish I knew how many hours this thing has on it. :wink: