Honda GSV 190 Recoil Bolt Stud Issue

Toro1

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Attempted to remove the recoil on a GSV 190 engine to replace the cord. The engine sits on a 2009 Toro commercial mower model 22156. When attempting to remove the three 10mm nuts holding the recoil, the studs came out of the top of the motor as the 10mm nuts were frozen to the studs. When trying to remove the nut/stud assembly from the upper engine/recoil shroud, I found that a deep set 10mm socket would not clear the stud flange under the housing. This made the nut removal very tedious.
Is this a common problem with these engines?
How does one avoid this, locktite on the stud threads to the engine and antiseize on the hold down nuts for the recoil?

Thanks,
Toro1
 

pugaltitude

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Yes it happens a lot on the GCVs.

Fit locktite and tighten down before threads start to strip and it should be ok.
 

Toro1

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Yes it happens a lot on the GCVs.

Fit locktite and tighten down before threads start to strip and it should be ok.

Thanks for the response.
Will follow your advice.

Toro1
 

robert@honda

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FYI, I spoke with an engineer about this, and he tells me the holes in the block for the fan cover/recoil starter studs are NOT tapped, but the studs themselves are self-tapping.

studs_zps5482eb24.jpg


Further, the torque spec used to apply the nuts for the recoil is probably higher than the effective torque used to tap/install the studs, so, when you try and remove the nut, the stud itself will comes almost always come loose first. :mad: I've had this happen on my HRX mower (less than 2 years old).

I'll mention this issue with our service guys...who knows, might get the factory to change the spec so this issue can go away.
 

Toro1

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FYI, I spoke with an engineer about this, and he tells me the holes in the block for the fan cover/recoil starter studs are NOT tapped, but the studs themselves are self-tapping.

studs_zps5482eb24.jpg


Further, the torque spec used to apply the nuts for the recoil is probably higher than the effective torque used to tap/install the studs, so, when you try and remove the nut, the stud itself will comes almost always come loose first. :mad: I've had this happen on my HRX mower (less than 2 years old).

I'll mention this issue with our service guys...who knows, might get the factory to change the spec so this issue can go away.

Wow. Having spent 36 years as an automotive engineer, I'm surprised to see torque specs for self tapping studs overwhelmed by removable nuts holding serviceable parts during the production process.
Thanks much for the explanation.
The other frustrating part of this issue is the flange that seats the studs against the engine block, are too large in diameter to allow a deep set socket to pass over and hold the stud from the bottom of the fan cover, allowing the removal of the stuck recoil nuts.
Hopefully, the engineers/service folks will come to our aid.
Thanks again for the great explanation!
 

wtmorgan1

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I'm having this exact same issue on my Honda lawn mower (HRT216SDA). Glad to see that I'm not the only one with this problem and I am not going crazy. I'm not sure why HONDA did not use reverse threads on the the lower portion of the bolt studs so that while removing the fan cover it would only tighten the bolt stud to the engine block.

As the OP, all three of my 10mm bolts are frozen to the studs. I guess I will try some liquid wrench or heat to losen them up. If I apply any more pressure to these bolts I'm going to end up breaking one off.
 
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