I have an older Honda F500 Tiller I've run into a brick wall on. The carb was pulled apart and cleaned. The spark plug was replaced, and shows spark. Tested it using the spark plug against metal, and again using a tester. It has compression. It was checked using a compression tester gauge. It also has fuel. Even replaced the old fuel with new fuel after cleaning the carb. The bugger still won't start. I tried putting a teaspoon or two of fuel directly into the cylinder, and had no luck. Any thoughts and/or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Scratch that last reply. I had the flywheel off 30 minutes ago. The woodruff key was solid and undamaged. Unless it's a different item you're talking about.
Scratch that last reply. I had the flywheel off 30 minutes ago. The woodruff key was solid and undamaged. Unless it's a different item you're talking about.
If that is an OHV engine check that the pushrods are still in place.
That is the other common thing that happens with a crash stop.
After that it gets expensive ( cams etc )
Here's a diagram I managed to find online. From the looks of it I'd have to go through the crankcase cover to check on the internals. That and unless I'm misunderstanding this design there doesn't seem to be any push rods.
Best regards,
Chris
#7
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Cmtul Putting gas in there doesn't always work......... That is fluid and not a vapor... It would take quite a few pulls to make it POP......
When you cleaned the carb, did you take the jet AND the fuel nozzle out of the carb ????? The jet has a small hole in it and the fuel nozzle has a few tiny holes in it that needs to be cleaned well......
I work on Honda carbs often and once the carb is off it takes me about 20 to 30 minutes to do it...... I know the process to clean a carb well though.... Also there are other things on a Honda carb to clean and deal with, such as the idle jet circuit.....
Un frère de louisiane .. heureux de vous rencontrer... Born and raised in Louisiana. When I cleaned the carb all components were removed, the float with needle, the jet with main nozzle. All adjusting screws (three total). Choke door, and the throttle door. Soaked everything for a day in carb cleaner. Used a nylon brush to clean it. Tough spots I used a brass brush. When done compressed air was pushed through it before reassembly. I would not be opposed to buying a new carb to rule it out completely. Who knows maybe this one just gave up the ghost. I have really fine broaches for watchmaking that fits the tiny holes. It allowed me the chance to ensure they were open.
Best regards,
Chris
#9
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Bien Bon Mon Frere' Where you from Mon Ami ............
I am only gonna be on here,,,,, In la mantin et la apres midi pour a peu while ..........
Ok I will say we should speak in english so others don't think other things LOL .......
Lol yeah it's probably best since I haven't really spoken it since I left home 20+ years ago. I was born and spent most of my childhood in Bogalusa. When I wasn't there I was in Metairie, Destrahan, Laplace, West Lake, Lake Charles, and even spent a few years in Morgan City. Used to do a few runs to Grand Isle every once in awhile when I was living in Morgan City.
The new carb came in today. Still not starting. Went back to checking the points and timing. Pulled the flywheel again, and double checked the opening and closing of the points against the F mark on the flywheel as per the shop manual. According to the shop manual the points are supposed to start opening right as the F mark hits the timing mark on the case. The points start to open at the beginning of the compression stroke, and closes as the F mark on the flywheel lines up with the timing mark on the case. The gap was readjusted to .020. The spark is more pronounced than before. I haven't checked the tappets yet. I figured I'd post this and see what input you guys have.
I pulled the head, and the valve tappet cover off. The head was gunked up with a good bit of carbon fouling. Along with some gummy black carbon substance. I cleaned all of that out. The valve surface was pitted pretty badly. Inside the tappet cover I checked the clearance as per the shop manual. It says the Min should be no less than 0.04mm (.002in), Max no more than 0.12mm (.005in). I have one reading at .127mm (.005in), and the other is reading at .203mm (.008in). Any input would be greatly appreciated. I ordered a tool for removing the valves so I can get a look at the seats, and try to clean them up some if needed. I'll check for leaking before I pull them.
I'm not too sure what else to look at that would cause it to not start. The manual gives the following reasons for hard start:
Clogged fuel filter (filter was clear of any debris and flows steady)
fouled, worn or pitted breaker points (inspected them, and everything looked new. even removed rust from corresponding surfaces of the rotor)
improper ignition timing (double checked this against the shop manual. readjusted them. gained stronger spark)
defective spark plug (replaced it with a new one and confirmed gap)
improper tappet clearance (which is where I'm at now. Could too much of a gap cause the engine to not start?)
