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I have a couple of questions regarding changing of points.

First, what kind of lubrication is best for points?

Secondly, I assume that timing is a function of gap. I have heard that .016 is the correct point gap?

The condenser seems to be riveted to the coil assembly through one of the mounting bolts. Any suggestions for removing and reassembling?

Thanks in advance,

Jim

Per the G100 shop manual:

Breaker points gap = 0.3~0.4mm (0.012~0.016 in)

There no mention of any specific lubrication for the points, just "Check the oil felt for "wet" condition. Apply oil if the felt is dry" Maybe others can suggest what type of oil is best for this use?

Make sure the point faces contact together flat and flush. Use a small file to grind material to make them fit correctly.

The condenser is a 0.24 microfarad capacitor. I understand you can use the continuity function on a VOM to test one, apply the test leads and the meter should go from 0 to infinite resistance. If you can check with a capacitance meter, that would be better. Replace the condenser (cheap) if unsure of it's status.

To adjust the timing, see attached screen shot.

Hey Robert,

I got up very early this morning and missed your information. You were right on about the points. I gapped them .3 mm, installed the new condenser, soldering it to the coil, and it fired right up. Your information helped conclude that it wasn't the coil. The other parts needed replacement anyway (they never had been).

I thought I would have problems with the carburetor since our unleaded gasahol has been causing problems with small engines but the carb works fine. I found a source for unleaded premium ($5.60 per gallon) which is okayed by our state for small engines and marine use.

I will check your timing setting post and fine tune it more. We are still thinking about getting the small 110 rototiller and donating this to a local arboretum. It will definitely be a Honda.

Jim

modela said:

Hey Robert,

I got up very early this morning and missed your information. You were right on about the points. I gapped them .3 mm, installed the new condenser, soldering it to the coil, and it fired right up. Your information helped conclude that it wasn't the coil. The other parts needed replacement anyway (they never had been).

I thought I would have problems with the carburetor since our unleaded gasahol has been causing problems with small engines but the carb works fine. I found a source for unleaded premium ($5.60 per gallon) which is okayed by our state for small engines and marine use.

I will check your timing setting post and fine tune it more. We are still thinking about getting the small 110 rototiller and donating this to a local arboretum. It will definitely be a Honda.

Jim

Click to expand...

I prefer to use the ethanol-free low grade because it works better on low compression engines. That high octane doesn't really burn that well in low-compression engines. What the high grade does is burn at a S L O W E R rate to keep the engine from knocking in a high compression engine. You can't run low grade in a high compression engine, say the newer Cadillacs because it will cause the engine to sputter, rattle, misfire, and worst cause detonation. Yep...sounds like the word...the gas DETONATES rather than a CONTROLLED BURN. The result is like a sledge hammer on the pistons! But try the 87 grade w/o ethanol. Probably get better service out of your mower. As re: points/condenser I replace both at the same time, but have been known to file them when I didn't have a replacement handy. I just use regular oil on the felt like the other mechanic mentioned. Yes..point gap is relative to timing. Remember this jingle and you can remember the function of point gap. "A closed-minded person is 'retarded', an open-minded person will advance!" Close the points= retard timing, Open the points= advance timing. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips. Another one I picked up regarding the problem of points versus condenser. A local mechanic told me that if you see a little mountain build up on the points (tit is what he called it) you see what side it is on. If it is on the base side it is condensor, on the moving side it is the points. Have you heard of that one?

Jim

The thread title suggests that you think your G100 is 6.5 HP. The G100 is rated at 2.2 HP, although I think I saw one that said 2.5, but I'm not 100% sure it was a G100. I have one of these engines waiting for just the right project.

As for lube, I use a silicon based grease on the points cam. That tends to make the points stay adjusted much longer. It is a bit more difficult to get the felt to "absorb" the grease, but you can "squeeze" it like a sponge and it will suck some in.

Thanks for your tip on the silicone grease. I have that and will use that.

I have a G200. Sorry for the slip. BTW this forum has been extremely useful.

Jim