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I have a Honda H2113HDA riding mower that keeps dying when I am mowing. It is sporiatic and always challenge to see if it dies before I get finished. Once it dies, it will not restart. I have to let it sit for awhile, then can go back later and it will fire right up. Sometimes when I am mowing, I can feel it start to die, and I can sometimes kick the mower PTO out and keep it running. I changed batteries, changed the filter in the gas tank and installed new fuel line, plus normal changing of spark plug, air filter, etc. Sometimes it dies a lot, sometimes not. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem is? I will say I bought the mower new and it always had trouble starting-I usually just use a squirt of engine starter fluid instead of grinding away at the starter forever. Also, when I kick the mower PTO lever on, it will often die. I have to let it run for a minute or two before kicking the PTO on. Are these normal problems with this mower, or is there adjustments I can make? I can (and have) lived with the last two problems, but would like to know how to keep the mower from dying.

Ron, there are a few things that will cause an otherwise healthy engine to shut down. Lack of spark, fuel/air mixture is wrong, or excessive load (binding belt, pulley etc.) overloads the engine.

The coil that supplies the power for the spark plug on that engine is pretty reliable. At this age, the wire may be cracked or broken in places, so inspect and replace if needed. I'd also put in a fresh spark plug at the same time.

The H2113 has a number of safety interlock switches that can shut down the engine. If any one of these is flaky, or has a poor connection, the spark to the engine will be shut down:

Brake pedal switch
PTO lever switch
Seat switch
Neutral switch (on transmission)

There is also the interlock relay and ignition switch as well, and either of these can possibly cause the engine to shut down if they are not making proper contacts. Same goes for any location on the wiring harness. The switches for the Seat, Parking Brake Lever, PTO lever, and Neutral are all normally open (no connection). They are closed (connected) when the tractor is ready to run. The interlock relay must get a ground through the Seat Switch OR the PTO switch, Neutral switch, AND Parking Brake Lever switch.

That said, electrical stuff is usually pretty durable, and it either works or it doesn't. You just have to try and find the fault when the tractor is in a "no start" condition.

Now the fuel/air side can be a possible problem area too. Often, debris or gunk inside the carburetor can form when the fuel is left too long in the tractor. A good cleaning of the carburetor and flush of the fuel system is probably a good idea given the age of this tractor. Sometimes, it's faster and easier to just replace a carburetor, rather than trying to overhaul one, especially if you've never done it before. A new carb for this tractor has a list price of $80.65, and is available from any Honda dealer; use Part Number 16100-AF5-V02.

When the tractor fails to start, does it turn over with the electric starter okay, but just doesn't start? This would indicate there's not a jammed belt or other heavy load. You can pull the spark plug, reconnect it to the cap, ground the electrode to the engine block, and then turn the key. You should see a faint spark jump across the electrode. If not, it's likely an electrical issue. If you do get spark, probably something the the fuel system (carburetor is often the main thing).

For DIY, I'd suggest at least getting a paper shop manual. Honda sells them direct on eBay, with free updates for 3 years. Here's a link:
Honda Shop Manuals on eBay

Hope this helps you get "started."

That is a good idea to check the spark-that would tell me if it is electrical or not. Yes, the starter does engage the engine, but the engine just will not fire. I replaced the spark plug and that did not help. If I let it set for awhile, then I can come back and it will fire right up. It may run for awhile, or may die on the next round. As far as being under a load, although I can kick the PTO off and sometimes keep it running, it does not necessarily die under a load. Thank you for the list of different safety switches. I know there are a number of them, but just did not know how many. However it seems if it was a bad connection, it would stay bad, and would not fire up after it had set for awhile. Anyway, I printed out your answer-when I start mowing next spring, I will remember to check for spark. If I have spark and no start, that tells me my switches are ok. If that is the case, then I will consider replacing the carburetor or . Do you know if the carburetor packet will include needle valve adjustment instructions? If no spark, I will check switches, and then the coil pack.

In the meanwhile, I will check the wiring so see if there are any cracks or flaws. I am replacing the starter so have the flywheel pulled off right now so I am in there already. Thank you for your help.

A new carb should bolt right on and the float valve/needle will typically not require any adjustment. You may need to set the throttle stop screw, using a tachometer, to the correct idle speed of 1,750 +200/-0 rpm (throttle set to SLOW).

The fuel/air mixture screw is pre-set from the factory and has an anti-tamper cap, and does not require any adjustment unless it is replaced at some point. In that case, gently screw it closed, then turn it open 2-1/2 turns out.

FYI, if the float ever does get out of whack, a float level gauge is required to set it correctly. The proper float height is 11.9-14.5mm (0.47-0.57 in).

Best of luck, and ask me anything Honda related.

Mostly it is a ground problem in the electric system. Ground connection on the engine must be clean. Behind the battery there a copple of black wires who are all connected by one connector. Remove this connector and make sure all wires are connected.

I have the identical problem as Ron Beard. I bought the Honda 2113HDA new in 2000 and it has been totally trustworthy until the last month. We use the mower down here in Florida 12 months a year, also. Never had a hard starting problem like Ron Beard. Never had a problem with it dying out while running until recently. It was misfiring and sputtering, and then it would just quit. Then I could start it and it would run OK for awhile, then stop again. Took it to a repair shop and he flushed out the carb and lines and rebuilt the carburetor. It worked fine for the front yard. I took a break and wanted to do the back yard, and couldn't get it started again. Tried 20-30 times. Pushed it into garage. A day later, started first time I tried! And then it quit again. Called up the repair man, put ramps on the truck to push it on - tried it one more time, and it started!! Drove it to the ramps, and it died on me before I could drive it up the ramps. No sputtering or backfiring like before. Pushed it on, took it to the repair man; and when I got to his business, I tried to start it and it started up!! 6 more cycles on and off and it worked fine every time.

I had run a ground wire from negative terminal to the chassis, and it didn't seem to make any difference. All my safety switches seem to be working fine. No corrosion on the ground connection to the chassis. Did all the expected stuff - cleaned air filter, replaced inline fuel filter, new plug, etc. Sure sounds like an electrical problem to me. I should have checked the spark while it was acting up to see if I had a spark.
Some to think of it, we did check the spark before I took it to the repair man and it was not getting a spark. But I assumed it was all fuel related, and not electrical. My plug wire looks fine. I have always garaged the machine. If all my switches are OK, what would be the next course of action?

revummel said:

If all my switches are OK, what would be the next course of action?

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I think the H2113's stater will NOT operate if the safety interlock is engaged or not working. So, if the starter spins the engine, I think the safety system/wiring are okay.

Spark check is next. Not much can go wrong here, there's just a coil under the flywheel, a wire, plug cap and wire to inspect/test. If you are getting visible spark, then that's okay too.

Would be good to run a compression check to verify the engine internals are good (valves, piston, etc.).

At that point, all that is left is fuel, and generally, the carb likely has some kind of issue. Since the carb has been torn into already, I'd strongly consider replacing the carburetor with a new one. This can often solve poor running, intermittent problems. Part number is 16100-ZF5-V02, $80.65 list price; dealer sets actual selling price.

Please check also the breather of the fueltankcap. If you heard if the engine will go down you have to losen the cap. Other problem can be the breatherhose of the carb. If it is stock the float in the floatchamber will not close the fuel so the engine get to much fuel. Please check also your engineoil. Engineoil will raise whit that problem.

I took it to a small engine repair station and he finally identified the problem - the coil was bad, working intermittently . thanks for all youir thoughts. The carb rebuild was a good thing - when it ran it purred really good. Just needed the spark!

revummel said:

I took it to a small engine repair station and he finally identified the problem - the coil was bad, working intermittently . thanks for all youir thoughts. The carb rebuild was a good thing - when it ran it purred really good. Just needed the spark!

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Glad you figured it out!

revummel said:

I took it to a small engine repair station and he finally identified the problem - the coil was bad, working intermittently . thanks for all youir thoughts. The carb rebuild was a good thing - when it ran it purred really good. Just needed the spark!

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I have the same mower and it is also behaving in a similar manner. Do you think that you could have replaced the coil yourself. Would you mind telling me what the ballpark price was for the shop to do that? Thanks - things I have done already:

- replaced the air filter
- dumped all the gas from the tank and used the fuel dump screw to drain the carburetor

I just received the spark plug and fuel filter so that is next on the agenda

Which coil module was replaced? There is the large coil module that operates on the outside diameter of the flywheel, then there are two smaller coil units under the flywheel. (from parts diagram) On the diagram, the outside coil is listed as Sup Coil Assy and the two small ones under the flywheel are Sup coil assy, charge and coil assy, lamp. From the descriptions does that mean the two under the flywheel are to charge the battery and run the headlights? Were all three replaced or just the one on outside edge? Does anyone know what the clearance should be set between outside coil and flywheel? I do not know the shop cost, but from the internet it looks like the parts costs for the outside coil is around $60 and the inside ones are $32 and $38 plus shipping.

misnomerga@gmail.com said:

I have the same mower and it is also behaving in a similar manner. Do you think that you could have replaced the coil yourself. Would you mind telling me what the ballpark price was for the shop to do that? Thanks - things I have done already:

- replaced the air filter
- dumped all the gas from the tank and used the fuel dump screw to drain the carburetor

I just received the spark plug and fuel filter so that is next on the agenda

Click to expand...

Ron Beard said:

Which coil module was replaced? There is the large coil module that operates on the outside diameter of the flywheel, then there are two smaller coil units under the flywheel. (from parts diagram) On the diagram, the outside coil is listed as Sup Coil Assy and the two small ones under the flywheel are Sup coil assy, charge and coil assy, lamp. From the descriptions does that mean the two under the flywheel are to charge the battery and run the headlights? Were all three replaced or just the one on outside edge? Does anyone know what the clearance should be set between outside coil and flywheel? I do not know the shop cost, but from the internet it looks like the parts costs for the outside coil is around $60 and the inside ones are $32 and $38 plus shipping.

Click to expand...

Sorry if there was some confusion - I have not replaced any coils. I just noticed that the poster indicated that the problem was resolved when the coil was replaced and I wanted to find out what was involved. By your response it looks like there is more than one coil so to speak. I am hoping that after I replace the fuel filter and spark plug the problem will be fixed and I won't have to replace the coil. I have only one mower repair shop in my neighborhood and it has a really bad reputation for customer service and charging a lot for work and not repairing the problem. Their reviews on Angie's list and other review sites is awful. Want to avoid them if possible because the last time I took my mower there I got a bad taste as well.

(Ref 003) Power for the spark plug.
(Ref 007) Charges the battery.
(Ref 015) Power for the headlamps (H2113 only; H2013 does not have headlamps).