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So I hit a root and sank the lead edge of the right blade into the root far enough to stop the forward progress of the mower. I quickly disengaged the blades and the mower ran a bit before I shut it off. After freeing the mower, I cranked it no problem but it started to die within seconds and won't restart. I tried a whiff of starting fluid and it will start but quickly starve out. I eyeballed the throttle linkage and choke linkage and all seems okay although I didn't spend much time since it's 98 degrees here today. I can't imagine why a hard strike would affect the fuel delivery system but there's a lot I don't understand. Any Ideas?

Replace flywheel key with new key, engine timing is off.
Let us know how it goes, thanks Mark

Okay, I'll look at it tomorrow AM when outside temps are below 80. It's a rider but I guess the principal is the same as long as I can get down to the flywheel. Is it surprising it will crank with starting fluid? The idea that the key sheared makes perfect sense considering how the the blade imbedded suddenly.

mechanic mark said:

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Replace flywheel key with new key, engine timing is off.

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Let us know how it goes, thanks Mark

Click to expand...

Got the flywheel off and key is not deformed or marred. All looks good. Can you think of any other issues that might cause the symptoms?

check the belt system to see if any are twisted and jamming things up. Make sure that the whole system is set back to the same as if you finished mowing and turned everything off normally, then go thru a normal start routine. It is not uncommon for people who have a strike to accidentally leave switches and levers in the same position they were in when it died.

Pull the air filter off & start using the fluid
Keep on shooting short I said SHORT shots into the carb
If you can keep it running for a minute or more that confirms a fuel problem

IF you confirm a fuel problem then remove the fuel line at the carburettor and crank the engine
You should get a strong pulsed flow the full diameter of the fuel line, not a feeble dribble or drips .
Naturally no smoking etc and use some sort of a catch can

If the fuel flow checks out good that only leaves the carburettor and in particular the carb solenoid as the wires could have fallen out of the plug or have shifted & now melted etc etc

If you can not keep the engine running then remove the rocker covers and pull the pushrods out to check they have not bent or even jumped off the rockers .

Let us know how these tests go for more instructions

bertsmobile1 said:

Pull the air filter off & start using the fluid
Keep on shooting short I said SHORT shots into the carb
If you can keep it running for a minute or more that confirms a fuel problem

IF you confirm a fuel problem then remove the fuel line at the carburettor and crank the engine
You should get a strong pulsed flow the full diameter of the fuel line, not a feeble dribble or drips .
Naturally no smoking etc and use some sort of a catch can

If the fuel flow checks out good that only leaves the carburettor and in particular the carb solenoid as the wires could have fallen out of the plug or have shifted & now melted etc etc

If you can not keep the engine running then remove the rocker covers and pull the pushrods out to check they have not bent or even jumped off the rockers .

Let us know how these tests go for more instructions

Click to expand...

Okay, thanks. Family issues are interfering right now but I will get to this soon as I can.

Quick check with the starting fluid shows it will run if continuously given a puff intermittently. Will do the fuel checks next week. Going out of town now.

bertsmobile1 said:

Pull the air filter off & start using the fluid
Keep on shooting short I said SHORT shots into the carb
If you can keep it running for a minute or more that confirms a fuel problem

IF you confirm a fuel problem then remove the fuel line at the carburettor and crank the engine
You should get a strong pulsed flow the full diameter of the fuel line, not a feeble dribble or drips .
Naturally no smoking etc and use some sort of a catch can

If the fuel flow checks out good that only leaves the carburettor and in particular the carb solenoid as the wires could have fallen out of the plug or have shifted & now melted etc etc

If you can not keep the engine running then remove the rocker covers and pull the pushrods out to check they have not bent or even jumped off the rockers .

Let us know how these tests go for more instructions

Click to expand...

There is no flow at all from the fuel line taken off the carb. Is it looking like I need a fuel pump?

No we do not go replacing parts yet
You go back and try the fuel line on the fuel tank side of the fuel pump
Now I have a vacuum pump and brake bleeding canister so now I can hook that up and see if it pulls fuel through the line directly from the tank.
Prior to that it was the old suck it and see method like you would get a syphon going .
remove the fuel cap first
Strong flow = pump problem
Poor flow = obstruction in the fuel line or tank.

Bad fuel pump ?
test it by blowing & sucking in rapid succession with a damp finger just resting on the outlet
You should feel the air being pushed out
Try to blow back through the outlet side, you should not be able to do it as you are blowing against 2 check valves .

Pump appears to be good , check the impulse line going to it
A bit of tissue paper near the open end of the impulse tube should flap when the engine is cranked but you have to hold it high enough to be away from the draught that the engine fan produces

And while you are having fun playing with your engine and getting mouths full of fuel ( yum ) pull the solenoid off the carb and check it turns on & off wit the key switch

Something tells me I'm not headed for a Lawn Royalty rating. I guess the mower ran out of gas at the exact time I hit the root. I don't remember even thinking it was low and have looked for leaks since realizing it was out. It seems sound. Doh!! At least I'm learning some new procedures.