Export thread

Help with information on lower drive belt, please?

#1

J

jstpsgthru

Mower = 2007 Cub Cadet i1046 Hours = 400

Please tell me if you have ever come across this and whether I'm being played. Thank you for your kind attention.

I just had a Cub dealer replace the lower drive belt. Mower sounds fine when driving, but applying the brake makes the belt wobble and makes a vibration (sometimes flapping) sound. The dealer put it on the rack and showed me how applying the brake affects the belt. It doesn't look normal.

Two techs said there was nothing that can be done; it is because the belt is too tight and will decrease with time. I don't know if this means decreased belt life.

Thanks, again, for your help.


#2

M

mechanic mark

www.ccpartsnmore.com

Cub Cadet Service Manuals

Manuals and Diagrams for Cub Cadet Mowers and Tractors. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet. Buy Parts for Less.
www.ccpartsnmore.com www.ccpartsnmore.com
Compatable is not OEM part.
www.ccpartsnmore.com

Cub Cadet LT 1046 Parts Manual

Cub Cadet LT Diagrams and Manuals. Shop for Cub Cadet LT1046 Parts. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet.
www.ccpartsnmore.com www.ccpartsnmore.com
see above website, is your tractor CH710, CH709, CH010? google belt & idlers part #'s for best price, make sure brand is OEM Cub Cadet, thanks Mark


#3

B

bertsmobile1

Applying the brake should make the belt go just loose enough that it can slip on the engine pulley without the pulley burning the belt .
Old belts can take on a set and require a fair bit of running to get hot enough to pull the set bends out of them from being doubled or tripled inside the sleeves .
If the belt has been stored poorly so it got a lot of sun this set can take quite a while to work out.
I had this problem when I first started so now all of my belts are stored in boxes on the floor in the shade and the problem no longer occurs .

Now if that is a variable pulley drive, both of the belts should have been changed as a set
And the belts must be OEM specification and branded as such
Varidrive belts are not a standard cross section and running standard belts will cause you grief.

Because I am trysting I will say they are not good techs & you should find some one else to do your mower work .
The folk here can walk you through any job and make sure you have done it properly

For instance you flapping problem could also be wear in the tension arm pivot .


#4

J

jstpsgthru

mechanic mark said:
www.ccpartsnmore.com

Cub Cadet Service Manuals

Manuals and Diagrams for Cub Cadet Mowers and Tractors. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet. Buy Parts for Less.
www.ccpartsnmore.com www.ccpartsnmore.com
Compatable is not OEM part.
www.ccpartsnmore.com

Cub Cadet LT 1046 Parts Manual

Cub Cadet LT Diagrams and Manuals. Shop for Cub Cadet LT1046 Parts. Factory Direct from Cub Cadet.
www.ccpartsnmore.com www.ccpartsnmore.com
see above website, is your tractor CH710, CH709, CH010? google belt & idlers part #'s for best price, make sure brand is OEM Cub Cadet, thanks Mark
Click to expand...
Thank you, very much. I called CC years ago, and was told they no longer had a service manual for my mower. I put it out of my mind. But, the link you provide has the i-series service manual!

I now have the owner's manual, parts manual and service manual.

I am 72 yo, definitely not a mechanic, and my health restricts some activities. I change filters and even remove the deck for cleaning and changing blades. I was pretty sure I didn't want to get on the ground to wrestle with the PTO. I thought the PTO had to be removed. Also, other sources led me to believe that steering rods needed to be realigned (which I was unsure of.) My main reason for wanting to know much more about the mower is to avoid bad experiences.

Thanks, again, for the link.


#5

J

jstpsgthru

bertsmobile1 said:
Applying the brake should make the belt go just loose enough that it can slip on the engine pulley without the pulley burning the belt .
Old belts can take on a set and require a fair bit of running to get hot enough to pull the set bends out of them from being doubled or tripled inside the sleeves .
If the belt has been stored poorly so it got a lot of sun this set can take quite a while to work out.
I had this problem when I first started so now all of my belts are stored in boxes on the floor in the shade and the problem no longer occurs .

Now if that is a variable pulley drive, both of the belts should have been changed as a set
And the belts must be OEM specification and branded as such
Varidrive belts are not a standard cross section and running standard belts will cause you grief.

Because I am trysting I will say they are not good techs & you should find some one else to do your mower work .
The folk here can walk you through any job and make sure you have done it properly

For instance you flapping problem could also be wear in the tension arm pivot .
Click to expand...
Thanks, so much, for the helpful reply. My mower has only two belts. They are the deck belt, which I have changed about every year since 2007, and the "lower drive belt."

The lower drive belt (754-04134) is the one I feel I need help with. The dealer ordered the part on the day I took in the mower, so "new belt" could be the situation. But, that leaves me with another question, that I would appreciate your knowledge on, please. Would 400 hours be early for wear on the tension arm pivot? AND

Let's say the tension arm pivot could be the problem. Is there a way to test it, like free play? How safe would it be to ride it out until it's time for another LDB? It only sounds funny when the brake pedal is applied.

Sorry, mowing is about to be a weekly thing, and when I do work on anything, it takes me five times as long as anyone else. Now, I've got a lot of reading to do in my new service manual.

Thanks, again, for your kind assistance.


#6

B

bertsmobile1

That is a little confusing
the transmission belt is above the deck belt right up high
So the term "lower drive belt " infers it is a varidrive transmission of some sort which some cubs do have
I got lazy and did not bother to check the specifications before answering your post .


#7

J

jstpsgthru

Sorry. I am attaching the page from parts manual. Part # 62.

Attachments


  • Lower Drive Belt Schematic.pdf
    312.2 KB · Views: 26


#8

StarTech

StarTech

What you have is just one motion drive belt. Not upper and lower belts. But to make sure someone didn't swap the hood please the model number from the serial number. it should start with 17 but may start with 13.

954-04134 1/2 x 88.2 (88-3/8").

Did the shop put on a 88" belt?

And no it very possible the pivot point is worn just depends on much is having to move around during operation.


#9

J

jstpsgthru

Thanks for the reply. I bought the mower new, in 2008. Model is listed on invoice that is attached.
The Owner's Manual listed the part # as 954-04134 "Lower Drive Belt" (attached)
The Parts Manual lists the part # as 754-04134 (88.4) V Belt (attached)

I also found the V Belt 954-04134 listed at "RepairClinic.com" as (88.2)
Cub Cadet's website states that 954** replaces 754** 88.2 is listed in extended info

Conspiracy? 😁😟🤷‍♂️

Anyway, l must assume that a Cub Cadet Dealer purchased an OEM part, and listed it correctly on the invoice.

This produces another quandary. Would .2 diff between 754** (original #) in Parts Manual and 954** at Cub Cadet Online Parts be enough to produce the judder, when new?

Do you have any suggestions for checking the tension arm pivot?

Thanks for your interest and assistance.

Attachments


  • V Belt.pdf
    470.3 KB · Views: 5

  • Lower Drive Belt - OwnMan.pdf
    177.6 KB · Views: 6

  • MacEquip Inv 30970 V-Belt Replacement 2023 06-14.pdf
    126.8 KB · Views: 3


#10

StarTech

StarTech

Just plain weird they called it a lower drive belt in the owners manual when obiviously there is only one drive belt.


#11

J

jstpsgthru

The service manual states shows two drive systems for this product. I have the "Hydrogear" version. There is also an IVT transmission, but it only has one drive belt, as well.

There is a "caution" that using a non-OEM belt may prevent the de-clutching mechanism from working properly WHEN THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED (emphasis is mine.)

So, if there was a difference of .2" that makes the belt too tight when new, is it likely that small a difference will fade and possibly correct the problem? I'm thinking maybe.

BTW, I think a service shop would probably want to sell me more stuff and labor, if the tension arm pivot was loose.

Thanks to everyone that has offered help. I am going to ride for a while and see if there is improvement. Hopefully, I won't break anything.


#12

StarTech

StarTech

If you have a PDF copy of the service manual I like to get a copy for my files. That way I can share it with fellow techs when needed.

You can send to this temp Email account.

amu7k65lp@mozmail.com


#13

J

jstpsgthru

StarTech said:
If you have a PDF copy of the service manual I like to get a copy for my files. That way I can share it with fellow techs when needed.

You can send to this temp Email account.

amu7k65lp@mozmail.com
Click to expand...
Mechanic Mark put the link in his reply. It is the link for "Cub Cadet Service Manuals." Look for the "i series" box, maybe half way down.


#14

StarTech

StarTech

Tnx for pointing that out. I was having a brain fart on this end. It didn't dawn me that the "I series" cover the 1040. I was kinda something labeled as i1000 series.

I had already DL that file back in 2021 so it is already available the forum I manage members.

Again Tnx for the redirect, much appreciated.


#15

D

Denali94

"Two techs said there was nothing that can be done; it is because the belt is too tight and will decrease with time."

Just a quick side note here. It is my understanding that today's mower drive and deck belts, due to both design and materials, do not "stretch". They will however "wear" causing them to ride improperly in the v-grooves giving the impression that they have lengthened or stretched. If the belt is too tight it is either the wrong size belt or there is a another mechanical issue.


#16

C

Cajun power

for what it's worth: check tensioner puller arm...make sure it swings freely...sometimes they get stuck with rust, corrosion, grass muck...etc. check this at the pulley wheel bearing and also the pulley arm. While you have it unloaded from spring pressure, see if the tensioner pulley rocks around. Sometimes they get beat up and do not move in the correct lever motion under spring force.

also check the tensioner spring and make sure is set into the proper hole in the frame. My nephew has a cub cadet zero (zr1 ultima)..when he changed the belt, he removed the belt tensioner spring to install the belt (did not know he could just push the tensioner over to slip the belt)...when he put it all back together, he did not notice the correct spring hole to use and the spring was hard stretched. He had also inverted the spring and it was directly striking the belt in rotation. After we relocated the spring to the correct position hole in the frame and turned it correct side down, worked as it should. I also put a slight bend in the end of the spring to prevent it from falling out when unloaded.


#17

T

TobyU

jstpsgthru said:
Thank you, very much. I called CC years ago, and was told they no longer had a service manual for my mower. I put it out of my mind. But, the link you provide has the i-series service manual!

I now have the owner's manual, parts manual and service manual.

I am 72 yo, definitely not a mechanic, and my health restricts some activities. I change filters and even remove the deck for cleaning and changing blades. I was pretty sure I didn't want to get on the ground to wrestle with the PTO. I thought the PTO had to be removed. Also, other sources led me to believe that steering rods needed to be realigned (which I was unsure of.) My main reason for wanting to know much more about the mower is to avoid bad experiences.

Thanks, again, for the link.
Click to expand...
I don't have time to read this entire thread but two things on most Cub cadets or other MTD mowers.
I can't believe a tech would replace just the lower belt if it's a two belt double sheave pulley drive system!

I have found you never want to replace just one belt even if the other one looks great or nearly New unless it literally has only been on for no more than one time mowing like less than a week.
They just don't pay lastly and if you don't put two brand new Factory original belts on at the same time you will have jumping, chattering, slow top speed, etc.
Now I just mentioned the other thing - Factory of original belts!

I have seen nothing but trouble out of aftermarket belts and that they either don't work properly, I.E not engaged properly or all the way or smoothly or don't disengage all the way like I'm late belts or even if they do work they simply don't last very long.

I will not tolerate any of the above.

I get mowers that come in all the time that are 17 years old minimum that still have the original belts on them. These belts are cracked, chunks and pieces are missing one piece and they're still moving the machine and the people are still cutting with it.

They're not the absolute best belts in the business but they are a close second. John Deere has the best belts in the business.
Neither company makes their own belts from what I assume but whoever makes them for them makes a top-notch quality belt..

I will not buy the sunbelt, pix, or even Gates or stands even though the last two are good reputable brands... They just don't have as good of a belt as the factory MTD or the John Deere.

It's simply not worth saving 8 or 10 dollars on each belt for the short life and the risk of having to do it again.

I tell everybody you can try this or try that but until you put two brand new belts on you're dealing with too many variables that you'll never really know whether that was the only problem or not..


#18

F

first pull

jstpsgthru said:
Mower = 2007 Cub Cadet i1046 Hours = 400

Please tell me if you have ever come across this and whether I'm being played. Thank you for your kind attention.

I just had a Cub dealer replace the lower drive belt. Mower sounds fine when driving, but applying the brake makes the belt wobble and makes a vibration (sometimes flapping) sound. The dealer put it on the rack and showed me how applying the brake affects the belt. It doesn't look normal.

Two techs said there was nothing that can be done; it is because the belt is too tight and will decrease with time. I don't know if this means decreased belt life.

Thanks, again, for your help.
Click to expand...
Sounds a little fishy to me.


#19

F

first pull

TobyU said:
I don't have time to read this entire thread but two things on most Cub cadets or other MTD mowers.
I can't believe a tech would replace just the lower belt if it's a two belt double sheave pulley drive system!

I have found you never want to replace just one belt even if the other one looks great or nearly New unless it literally has only been on for no more than one time mowing like less than a week.
They just don't pay lastly and if you don't put two brand new Factory original belts on at the same time you will have jumping, chattering, slow top speed, etc.
Now I just mentioned the other thing - Factory of original belts!

I have seen nothing but trouble out of aftermarket belts and that they either don't work properly, I.E not engaged properly or all the way or smoothly or don't disengage all the way like I'm late belts or even if they do work they simply don't last very long.

I will not tolerate any of the above.

I get mowers that come in all the time that are 17 years old minimum that still have the original belts on them. These belts are cracked, chunks and pieces are missing one piece and they're still moving the machine and the people are still cutting with it.

They're not the absolute best belts in the business but they are a close second. John Deere has the best belts in the business.
Neither company makes their own belts from what I assume but whoever makes them for them makes a top-notch quality belt..

I will not buy the sunbelt, pix, or even Gates or stands even though the last two are good reputable brands... They just don't have as good of a belt as the factory MTD or the John Deere.

It's simply not worth saving 8 or 10 dollars on each belt for the short life and the risk of having to do it again.

I tell everybody you can try this or try that but until you put two brand new belts on you're dealing with too many variables that you'll never really know whether that was the only problem or not..
Click to expand...
Probably the pulleys are worn out, I have seen this more often than you might think. The pulleys are worn too deeply so the repair shops put the next size smaller belt on and tell you it has to wear in.


#20

S

STEVES

New belt, should be able to find part number on it, at least rule that out if factory belt. Like said, pulley grooves could be worn grabbing belt.


#21

F

first pull

STEVES said:
New belt, should be able to find part number on it, at least rule that out if factory belt. Like said, pulley grooves could be worn grabbing belt.
Click to expand...
Agreed


Footer Links 1

Top