Ok we know the switch is working. Your problem is eith a broken wire or safety switch between the switch and solenoid. I would start by checking the seat switch, then the brake switch and finally the PTO switch.
Help my cub cadet will not start and I do not know why
- Thread starter mrstevewayne575
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Bet they are all bypassed, LOL. If they are, get them working again. Wire them up as a new mower would be.
sgkent
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ALSO - Be sure you read the voltage on that red + wire when you try to jump it like you did before. If you got 12V, then set the meter down, and tried to jump it, the battery can go to 1 or 2 volts if it is bad, then recover to near 12V under no load. You have to monitor the voltage WHILE you are trying to start it.
sounds like a bad connection at the starter or a bad starter. Put your volt meter probes between the 12V+ at the starter, and chassis ground, then turn the key. Does it show 12V? If yes try it again with the postive (red probe) on the starter case and the negative (black) probe on the chassis ground. It should not read voltage. This would mean that the starter is grounded ok, and that it is getting 12V ok too. But if the starter case shows 12V (rare) it would mean a bad ground between the starter and chassis.
If you get a good ground on the starter, and a solid 12V at the starter, then it sounds like a bad starter. Do try to pull it thru by hand to be sure the engine is not frozen stiff or hydro locked.
sounds like a bad connection at the starter or a bad starter. Put your volt meter probes between the 12V+ at the starter, and chassis ground, then turn the key. Does it show 12V? If yes try it again with the postive (red probe) on the starter case and the negative (black) probe on the chassis ground. It should not read voltage. This would mean that the starter is grounded ok, and that it is getting 12V ok too. But if the starter case shows 12V (rare) it would mean a bad ground between the starter and chassis.
If you get a good ground on the starter, and a solid 12V at the starter, then it sounds like a bad starter. Do try to pull it thru by hand to be sure the engine is not frozen stiff or hydro locked.
mrstevewayne575
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OK, thanks for you helping me with this.I will report back after I do what you said. For the record for others who read this, I installed a new Battery, starter, Solenoid,(original equipment) and mower ran fine for several days. after couple days I went to start it to cut grass and nothing, no power at all that is what started my quest for help.
All wiring is original nothing was ever added to.
All wiring is original nothing was ever added to.
sgkent
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I don't know how the battery charges on your mower, but on automotive alternators there are diodes in the circuit and if one goes bad it can drain a battery. Also cables can break or corrode internally and have high resistance. A new part can go bad, or have been one someone else had trouble with and returned. Unfortunately, I run into that all the time with parts bought online.
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Would not hurt to learn the electrical systems on mowers. In this the engine is Briggs that most likely still using the dual circuit stator. And as the Cub Cadet design wiring it is impossible for the mower to drain when the ignition (assuming a good switch) is off; unless, something has been rewire or wired in. Leaving it in the run position will drain the battery all the way to flat.(zero charge) The only it can drain the battery other than leaving the ignition on is to have internal short in the ignition switch.
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Actually I say to my customers new don't always means good. And just throwing parts at it can get expensive fast.
Gord Baker
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Check the Starter with a known good battery. + cable to starter terminal, - cable to Starter bolt.
If starter engages, work backwards to battery. There is an 8-10 volt connector near the Ignition switch. Unplug it, spray with Battery Terminal cleaner then Brakcleen and reconnect.
If starter engages, work backwards to battery. There is an 8-10 volt connector near the Ignition switch. Unplug it, spray with Battery Terminal cleaner then Brakcleen and reconnect.
Three words of advice from someone who does auto electric troubleshooting, firing the parts cannon should not become an option. Very expensive. When checking electrical connections, do not use only a meter. The high input impedence will show the worst connection as good. Use a test light, not LED, to verify that the connection or switch is indeed good. A high resistance connection will look fine with a meter, but unable to light even the smallest light bulb. And also, start your testing with clean and tight battery connections. Again a corroded battery terminal may look good from the outside, but underneath there may be high resistance that would steer you back toward that parts cannon.