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Hello everyone,

As the tittle states, I have no idea what year, model etc this mower is that I found on the roadside. I have not seen another like it and I have looked.
When I type in the serial or model # of the chassis or the # stamped on the motor, I get nothing..

Serial # - 60-1618-2 (I have the link to the manual so I do know 'if I'm reading it correctly' its 1982-1985?)
Model # - 1059440
Motor # - D1-2 609408

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It was not running when I got it home.

-Gas tank and carb were fully gummed with goop.
-Screen in gas tank plugged.
-Float needle valve leak bad.
-Float out of spec.
-Muffler totally plugged with carbon (cheap oil I'd guess). Literally totally plugged, zero exhaust!
-Governor out of adjustment (previous owns attempt to make it run). When I cleaned out the packed muffle & started it up, it rev'd to the moon.
-Hand brushed paint :confused2:

She runs now and will be supreme when I get the new needle valve & seat.
High compression - very low blow by the rings, no sign of dirt, rust or water in the crank. Looks like a solid low hrs motor.
Overall a good find, and a good new home.
It is so light to throw around. I'm watering the lawn tonight, hopefully I'll be able to do more than start er up and take a sip of brew!

I love these Canadian LBs. They have a different look.

The model number you gave seems to have too many digits. I don't know what to make of it. :confused2:

I'm 99% sure you have an F-series engine. That's good news since parts availability is very good for that engine.

Thanks for posting the photos. And let us know how it comes out.

Thanks for the prompt reply,

Different look?, - no kidding! I can't find a darn thing in regards to this thing...

The neighbor I got it from was French, I wonder if it was a French CTC purchase then brought to Ontario? The neighbor in question passed away, the 'new people' tossed it in the trash. Glad I saved it..

Serial # does not jive with anything I've cum across :wink: & I've cum across a few hehehehe



This is why I've come to the LB knowledge base.. cheers..

On the serial numbers... could there be a Canadian numbering system? The US websites geared to selling parts for US mowers seem to use a different numbering system.

You mentioned in another thread that you late mother (sorry for your loss) worked at a LB facility in Ontario. Could you contact somebody there?

You also noted the light weight of the mower. That's one of the things I like best about LBs and one of the reasons I started collecting them.

Two-Stroke said:

could there be a Canadian numbering system?
Could you contact somebody there?

Click to expand...

There might be but I'm pretty confident it would be identified in a fact page somewhere.
No chance in contacting anyone there, the LB plant in Peterborough was closed decades ago.

OK -- 60-1618-2 is a valid model number -- you had the model # and the serial # switched in the original post. :laughing:

Your mower does have an F-series engine -- good news since that is probably the best engine ever made for a push mower.

Here's a link for an engine parts diagram.

If you live near that old LB plant there may be lots of these fine machines sitting in basements and garages... owned by people who don't really care about collecting them. :cool2:

You are correct sir. I do have them backwards :ashamed:

I did some more research today and still came up with no new useful info. I can only find green ones with front wrap around gas tanks.
Some of the green ones I came across looked like the gas tank was turning a brown tint. Only made from 1978 -> 1982. But, in the manual it states my model was made between 1982 -> 1985 so I don't know.. :confused2:

Thanks for the help Two-Stroke :drink:

That brown plastic thing that covers the engine is called the shroud. But you don't need one of those -- right?

Is that the float valve (and seat) that you need? That's the thing in the photo in your original post. Anyway... that will almost certainly be interchangeable among all F-series engines -- but check to be sure. You may want to get a carb rebuild kit -- which probably would include the float valve.

I would give you a link to where I'd buy it but I think you're better off dealing with a Canadian seller. If the air filter looks bad you should replace that too. Maybe you might add an inline fuel filter as well.

Let us know how it works out.

Yes that is the fuel needle. It looks fine in the photo and the rubber is pliable but fuel is leaking past slowly, so I was going to purchase this & the matching seat. It's not leaking enough to make the motor run rich but if the petcock was left on it would drain the tank. While I'm in there again I'm going to add a drain valve in the bowl. That way there will never be standing fuel in the carb to evaporate and cause jetting problems.

I don't think I like the 'utility deck' but I like my motor, it seems strong and tight. Would I be able to get a rusty old brick-top basket-cast and make good looking mower out of it & my motor? Would the mounting points line-up?

Two-Stroke said:

That brown plastic thing that covers the engine is called the shroud. But you don't need one of those -- right?

Click to expand...

The brown plastic thing on mine and this model is indeed the gas tank.. :dance1:
In some of the pics I've seen I think I can see a brown tint under the green paint. Might be my computer screen, or the rum.

WhyZed said:

It looks fine in the photo and the rubber is pliable but fuel is leaking past

Click to expand...

Old Needle valve with rubber tip.



New Needle valve with rubber tip



Click for larger pic.

In hind site :redface: I sorry :wink:

I should be able to get er running tip top now without overflowing the bowl, running rich, or leaking my tank empty if I (or Da-boy) forgets to turn the gas valve off after mowing the lawn.

Cheers.

WhyZed said:

Old Needle valve with rubber tip.

View attachment 14340

New Needle valve with rubber tip

View attachment 14341

Click for larger pic.

In hind site :redface: I sorry :wink:

I should be able to get er running tip top now without overflowing the bowl, running rich, or leaking my tank empty if I (or Da-boy) forgets to turn the gas valve off after mowing the lawn.

Cheers.

Click to expand...

Those photos are of float valves -- which controls the flow of gas into the float chamber. The needle valve looks much more like a needle and precisely controls the flow of gas into the carb's venturi. It screws into the carb and the fuel flow is adjustable by turning the screw.

On interchangeability of engines onto decks: you can use any F-series engine on any other F-series deck but it may be necessary to use the adapter for the deck you intend to use. Those classic brick tops were D-series (maybe some C-series also) and I don't know if you can bolt an F-series onto those decks -- easily anyway.

Two-Stroke said:

Those photos are of float valves -- which controls the flow of gas into the float chamber. The needle valve looks much more like a needle and precisely controls the flow of gas into the carb's venturi. It screws into the carb and the fuel flow is adjustable by turning the screw.

Click to expand...

Well ya learned me something new today :thumbsup: I had no idea :ashamed:

I was referencing those parts 'by name' from the Online Service Manual, Page 4-30. The official manual calls these parts the "needle valve" and seat.
I'll call Toro and tell them all their manuals are wrong, that we have different names for these now! joke :laughing:

Thanks for the info on the engine/deck.

I have 2 of these Canadian tire /Lawn boys. The first one my dad bought in 1982 ( I have the original mastercraft manual) . A few years ago I found an identical one in the trash so I took it home thinking it would be good for parts....added some gas and a plug and it started up....so now have two that run. The only problem is that they have a steel deck and my first one had some holes that I had to patch. Found another old 1979 Lawn boy and thought I could use its magnesium deck but motor will not fit on deck.....engine is almost identical except for shroud and gas tank.
Long story short I now have 3 of these 2 strokers and they run great as long as you clean the carb and use good fresh gas and oil mix.
The manual states the needle seat combo is # 681741 but I have used toro number 92-9697 which is the replacement.

Most of the time they do not need a new needle and seat just a good cleaning.
This you tube vid shows your exact carb and how to clean it....Carburetor Cleaning on Lawnboy Lawnmower - YouTube
My first 1982 still has all original carb parts but it does need cleaning especially if you use regular gas that has ethanol.

RJK said:

I have 2 of these Canadian tire /Lawn boys. The first one my dad bought in 1982 ( I have the original mastercraft manual) . A few years ago I found an identical one in the trash so I took it home thinking it would be good for parts....added some gas and a plug and it started up....so now have two that run. The only problem is that they have a steel deck and my first one had some holes that I had to patch. Found another old 1979 Lawn boy and thought I could use its magnesium deck but motor will not fit on deck.....engine is almost identical except for shroud and gas tank.
Long story short I now have 3 of these 2 strokers and they run great as long as you clean the carb and use good fresh gas and oil mix.
The manual states the needle seat combo is # 681741 but I have used toro number 92-9697 which is the replacement.

Most of the time they do not need a new needle and seat just a good cleaning.
This you tube vid shows your exact carb and how to clean it....Carburetor Cleaning on Lawnboy Lawnmower - YouTube
My first 1982 still has all original carb parts but it does need cleaning especially if you use regular gas that has ethanol.

Click to expand...

Yep, this CTC Lawn-Boy has really impressed me. It is so light I can throw it around with one arm..
Was at my buddies on the weekend, she has a bricktop on this chassis in green and she loves it. She calls it her ditch witch. I told her I'd buy it from her and she said "NEVER!" She knows what has there she's one smart cookie.

I was hoping to build the model/style I wanted but I've found the same as you - not all motors will bolt up to all chassis.

ESSO Gas Stations is the only one that sell high test with zero corn ethanol in my area.
I have 13 x 2 strokes in my stable and it is the only fuel I'll run in them.

I was looking at the pics of your mower and someone must have added an after market kill switch. Also the cover on the back is black and should be brown like the tank.
The only thing I have had to replace is a primer bulb and both gas caps.....a squirrel ate the tops off the caps ! Must be something with the oil and gas mixture ! Could not get new caps ...Toro is discontinuing many LB parts but my local dealer took me out back and showed me his huge collection of old LBs he uses for parts and gave me two gas caps.
I am finding the gas is getting very poor here in Ontario and goes bad after a few weeks if you are not using premium. I recently found out that CTC premium does not have ethanol.
I am attaching some pics of the LB collection that my son is using at the cottage with his grass cutting business. The CTC models are good with their larger gas tanks and light weight compared to the green LB. The CTC models should have white pull cord handles, gas caps and primers....you can see some have been replaced with what was available.

Very cool Braa!
A wise man once told me to never put anything but high test in any 2 stroke. Since I switched my engines have never let me down. It will still gum up (evaporate) if left sitting to long but the ESSO or CTC (thanks for this) corn free I highly recommend..

The kill switch is indeed not stock. It also functions backwards, in is on, out off.