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Help finding the right replacement belt?

#1

H

Hustler27

I have a hustler raptor, 52" deck. Made it part way through the lawn today and the deck belt exploded. I mean, I had to get a box cutter to get that thing off of the mower. I'm pretty sure it was at one time a single belt. :)

Can anyone help me with what belt I need to replace it with so I can order a new one asap?

And does anyone know of anything useful for how to weave it back in there around all of the pulleys the correct way when it arrives?

Thanks guys!


#2

N

nbpt100

you will have to post your model number and serial number. Everything is model number based.


#3

sgkent

sgkent

The fragments of your old belt may have a part number on it.


#4

Mr. Mower

Mr. Mower

Download a copy of the Service Manual on your particular (specific) model of your Hustler mower and it should show you which belt is needed (part #) and how it is installed on the deck, etc.


#5

H

Hustler27

Model - 931899
Serial - 12101688


#6

StarTech

StarTech

PN 791988 for serial before 14030001.

Width: 5/8" Length: 140 3/4"

This should give the general idea of how belt pattern should look like after feeding around the pulleys.
1661441614336.png


#7

H

Hustler27

Thanks! Does it matter much which brand to purchase? Looks like there are a bazillion belts in this model. Anyone happy with one or trust one?

Thanks guys!


#8

StarTech

StarTech

If purchasing after market it needs to be covered and a Kevlar corded belt and meets the width and length specs above. Now I would avoid the Sunbelt (A&I) belts as they have been coming shorter than than spec'd size they are labelled being. This is why I quit buying them myself as I had to return nearly all of them for a 5/8 being two inches just don't work.


#9

H

Hustler27

Found a site with Hustler OEM parts and ordered. Thanks again.


#10

D

daved47

I buy buy belts off of E Bay. Lots of choices and great prices. Free shipping on belts and other parts. Be sure to look at sellers with a lot of items sold and that they have a user rating of 95% satisfaction or better. I prefer 99%


#11

StarTech

StarTech

As a professional I only buy and install OEM spec'd belts from good distributors; not some will fit belt. When I first started I tried using those will fit belts. Even one my former distributors was sending after market that were not the correct size even though they claimed them to be correct lengths. Needless to say I no longer buy belts from them.


#12

B

bertsmobile1

Buying off EvilPay or Ammozone is always a lucky dip
General rule is only buy stuff there that is BRANDED and the maker is listed in the add .
Reputable makers have lawyers who troll there sites & check the vendors off against customer lists to try and reduce the number of fake products out there
The check the other products, which is a better thing than feed back
If they are selling everything from condoms to prams then they are salvage / disposal sites and a better than average chance the stuff they are selling is defective quality control rejects, bought as scrap & resold as a good product.
And if they are selling prams & condoms , then that sort of tells a story .
OTOH is they are selling nothing but belts, or outdoor equipment parts then a good chance they are ligitimate mower parts vendors.
I get daily spam from Asia boasing that they can get me 100 good feedback on all my ebay sales ( for a small fee ) and they actually can do it .


#13

H

Hustler27

Purchased one and it just arrived, but I must not be doing something right. Got the belt on. It's tight, but should be right? Hence the tension pulley?

Anyway, when I turn the engine on, the deck belt is starting up with it. The level to engage the blades doesn't seem to be doing anything. They seem stuck on. Any ideas?

Thanks.


#14

B

bertsmobile1

Slip the deck off & take a photo of the belt run
Almost guarantee you have it wrong but too hard to describe in words
Photo will have to be sent to your computer and resize 12" @ 72 dpi or it will be too big for the server.
JPG,s upload as photos. PDF's upload as documents .


#15

StarTech

StarTech

Inspect the electric clutch as it may have part of a kevlar cord jammed it causing it to stay engaged. Either that or you have a clutch bearing failure.


#16

H

Hustler27

bertsmobile1 said:
Slip the deck off & take a photo of the belt run
Almost guarantee you have it wrong but too hard to describe in words
Photo will have to be sent to your computer and resize 12" @ 72 dpi or it will be too big for the server.
JPG,s upload as photos. PDF's upload as documents .
Click to expand...
Not sure how to take the deck off, but I'll see what I can do for a photo. Harder part will probably be getting it sized so I can post it. :)


#17

H

Hustler27

StarTech said:
Inspect the electric clutch as it may have part of a kevlar cord jammed it causing it to stay engaged. Either that or you have a clutch bearing failure.
Click to expand...
Any easy way to get under the plastic cover with the cup holders etc.? My immediate thought was to try to follow from the lever down, but I'm not sure how to get my eyes in/under there. And what would I look for?


#18

H

Hustler27

TeBh35b.jpg

SJBouQs.jpg


#19

StarTech

StarTech

The belt is on correctly.


#20

H

Hustler27

+1 for me!

So what do I look for next to figure out why it spins up when I start the engine with the deck blades not engaged? Seems like something is preventing it from disengaging possibly.

Thanks.


#21

M

MParr

Hustler Belt part #791988
Stens part #265-336
Rotary part #15190
5/8” x 140.77 (140 & 49/64”)


#22

H

Hustler27

What are the three parts after the belt part? My lawn is getting to rain forest level.


#23

M

MParr

Hustler27 said:
What are the three parts after the belt part? My lawn is getting to rain forest level.
Click to expand...
1: Hustler belt part #
2: Stens belt part #
3: Rotary belt part #
4: Actual belt dimensions

If your new belt is not 140.77” long and 5/8” wide, it’s the wrong belt.
You should make sure that there is no belting material around the electric clutch brake (PTO).
Make sure that your PTO switch is in the off position before cranking. Some people will disconnect safety switches. I hope that you haven’t done that.


#24

H

Hustler27

MParr said:
1: Hustler belt part #
2: Stens belt part #
3: Rotary belt part #
4: Actual belt dimensions
Click to expand...
Are stens and rotary other parts or other brands or what? I purchased the hustler belt and am not having luck getting it working correctly.


#25

M

MParr

Hustler27 said:
Are stens and rotary other parts or other brands or what? I purchased the hustler belt and am not having luck getting it working correctly.
Click to expand...
Stens and Rotary are aftermarket parts dealers, manufacturers, distributors.
You need to confirm the dimensions of your new belt.
Also, give us the numbers off of the new belt. You could have the wrong belt.
If the belt is correct and you are still having problems, take it to your local Hustler or Big Dog dealer and have them figure it out.


#26

B

bertsmobile1

OK
Your electric clutch is gone to heaven
Confirm by removing the belt and watch the deck drive pulley while some one else cranks the engine
If the pulley turns with the PTO turned off then either the switch-wiring is bad or the PTO clutch itself is bad
Unplug the clutch and repeat test
Pulley still spins = dead clutch
Pulley does not spin = wiring problem
Let us know what you find


#27

H

Hustler27

MParr said:
Stens and Rotary are aftermarket parts dealers, manufacturers, distributors.
You need to confirm the dimensions of your new belt.
Also, give us the numbers off of the new belt. You could have the wrong belt.
If the belt is correct and you are still having problems, take it to your local Hustler or Big Dog dealer and have them figure it out.
Click to expand...
791988


#28

H

Hustler27

bertsmobile1 said:
OK
Your electric clutch is gone to heaven
Confirm by removing the belt and watch the deck drive pulley while some one else cranks the engine
If the pulley turns with the PTO turned off then either the switch-wiring is bad or the PTO clutch itself is bad
Unplug the clutch and repeat test
Pulley still spins = dead clutch
Pulley does not spin = wiring problem
Let us know what you find
Click to expand...
This seems like a solid plan. I will do this asap.

Start of dumb questions...
- Is this a specific pulley that I need to look up to figure out or is this applicable to any on the mower deck (Or is this on the engine itself?)
- Will unplugging the clutch become obvious if I take off the plastic housing where the lever to engage the mower blades is mounted?


#29

B

bertsmobile1

So now I am really confused
Unless the Raptors you get in the USA are different to the ones we get in OZ it should have an electric clutch on the PTO to power the blades
You keep mentioning a "lever" signifing a manual PTO engagement
This I have never seen except on old Dixons & current bottom end Husqvarnas & McCullochs
Feel like posting some model & serial numbers so we can make sure we are all singing from the same song sheet ?


#30

StarTech

StarTech

Well the model number posted show an electric clutch.
1662515215248.png


#31

H

Hustler27

bertsmobile1 said:
OK
Your electric clutch is gone to heaven
Confirm by removing the belt and watch the deck drive pulley while some one else cranks the engine
If the pulley turns with the PTO turned off then either the switch-wiring is bad or the PTO clutch itself is bad
Unplug the clutch and repeat test
Pulley still spins = dead clutch
Pulley does not spin = wiring problem
Let us know what you find
Click to expand...
This seems like a solid plan. I will do this asap.

Start of dumb questions...
- Is this a specific pulley that I need to look up to figure out or is this applicable to any on the mower deck (Or is this on the engine itself?)
- Will unplugging the clutch become obvious if I take off the plastic housing where the lever to engage the mower blades is mounted?


#32

H

Hustler27

Probably just horrible non-technical vocabulary choices by me, sorry. If we are talking about the pulley right under the engine, I'll go give that a gander and see if anything looks visibly wrong there. (Some belt wrapped in there, something that looks damaged etc.). Thanks.


#33

M

MParr

Look at the parts drawing that @StarTech put up on page 3. Do you see the electric pigtail going to the electric clutch?
Have you consulted your operators manual?


#34

H

Hustler27

Help me with where to unplug the pto so that I can test starting it without it connected.

6OMU0dl.jpg


6FZHZJt.jpg


#35

H

Hustler27

Am I looking for #12 in the diagram?


#36

H

Hustler27

bertsmobile1 said:
So now I am really confused
Unless the Raptors you get in the USA are different to the ones we get in OZ it should have an electric clutch on the PTO to power the blades
You keep mentioning a "lever" signifing a manual PTO engagement
This I have never seen except on old Dixons & current bottom end Husqvarnas & McCullochs
Feel like posting some model & serial numbers so we can make sure we are all singing from the same song sheet ?
Click to expand...
Sorry. I have a red...I don't know. It's like what you have to shoot the ball in pinball??? Pull up and it sort of clicks and the blades engage. Push back down and it sort of clicks again and the blades disengage, except it's not doing that since the belt blew up.


#37

H

Hustler27

Okay. Found the electrical on the other side. Wife was able to get her arm in there and remove the wires. Blades still spun up with the engine.


#38

H

Hustler27

So call the dealer where I purchased the mower and see if they can get a new clutch for me? Ballpark idea on the cost? If I don't have a torque wrench, is it a better idea to buy a torque wrench and replace it myself, or find someone to help me haul the mower there to have them replace it for me?

Thanks for all of the help.


#39

StarTech

StarTech

The electric cable is pointed by the red arrow.
1662857768986.png

This is where the cable is plugged into. Note has a catch on it that will need to be undone.
1662857645061.png

Side note: you are due for a drive belt replaced. Also that little 2 inch flat idler should be replaced at the same time.


#40

H

Hustler27

:) Okay. I'll have to go look again. I didn't find anything on that side of the pto. I found that plug on the other side, but I don't think that little pig tail wire was the one we unplugged.


#41

H

Hustler27

Makes sense if one belt needed to be replaced, the other does too. Good thought. Where is the flat idler from your arrow?


#42

B

bertsmobile1

The plug can be anywhere on the outer case but there will only be 1 of them
If it is at the back and goes through the floor in the right place then it does not need to be undone every time you change the belts
If the blades spin with it unplugged then it is faulty
No real need to get it done at a workshop but you will need a rattle gun to undo the bolt as there is no real means of preventing the shaft from turning other than putting a strap on the flywheel or removing a spark plug and fitting a piston stop
I for one gave up tensioning then to exact specs ages ago
I just set the gun to it's lowest setting and tighten till the head stops turning with repeated applications
Apply some copper anti sieze to the PTO shaft so it comes off easier in the future as they get very hot in use and corrode tight on the PTO shaft
And do not stick your head directly underneath it because it won't budge, then it will come off in a rush & leave a sizeable divot in your forhead ( if you are lucky ) or even break your nose .
If it won't budge put a bearing seperator behind the top of the unit then a 2 jaw puller on the bearing separator
Do not try to lever it off as there in not enough room and you will end up bending the drive pulley ( more $$$$ ).

I am yet to recover full strength so when I refit electric PTO's I put an all thread in the bolt hole then slide the clutch over it and use the original washer plus a wing nut to wind it up so I can alighn the key way in the PTO shaft and the key in the PTO itself .
Take some photos so the new one goes back the same way very important if the drive pulley also comes off, which again I always do so it can get some never sieze as well ,


#43

StarTech

StarTech

Hustler27 said:
Makes sense if one belt needed to be replaced, the other does too. Good thought. Where is the flat idler from your arrow?
Click to expand...
1662891512568.png


#44

StarTech

StarTech

bertsmobile1 said:
No real need to get it done at a workshop but you will need a rattle gun to undo the bolt as there is no real means of preventing the shaft from turning other than putting a strap on the flywheel or removing a spark plug and fitting a piston stop
I for one gave up tensioning then to exact specs ages ago
I just set the gun to it's lowest setting and tighten till the head stops turning with repeated applications
Apply some copper anti sieze (seize) to the PTO shaft so it comes off easier in the future as they get very hot in use and corrode tight on the PTO shaft
And do not stick your head directly underneath it because it won't budge, then it will come off in a rush & leave a sizeable divot in your forehead ( if you are lucky ) or even break your nose .
If it won't budge put a bearing seperator (separator) behind the top of the unit then a 2 jaw puller on the bearing separator
Do not try to lever it off as there in not enough room and you will end up bending the drive pulley ( more $$$$ ).
Click to expand...
Bert,

This particular setup has a Double D setup. A simple large open ended wrench will fit it to hold keeping the crankshaft from turning. This is usually a SAE size but I ran into one that was metric.
I think this one is either a 1-3/8" or 1-1/2" Double D size. And the screw hex head should be a 5/8" (16mm).
1662891692830.png

Now I had made my own Double D holding tool make for this. Currently I have two double ended versions (fits four sizes of Double Ds) but I have ran into a couple sizes lately on larger ZTRs that I need have another one made. Currently I don't have an image of my tool; only the design drawings that I provided my machinist which I need to get patent. Beside I need make a slight design change for the washer I been running into lately. The tool still works but I would like to be holding the Double D fully and currently the washers are preventing this. On top some idiot OEMs are using washers larger than the Double D flats so my tool will not work on them.

You always leave the screw loose when first attempting to pull the clutch to hold the clutch so it just don't come off completely. Sometimes you will need a longer screw for this but it is safer than having it come off completely before you are ready for it to do so. As for the puller it will take one with long fingers but I yet to find one in my area that will work for the field part of the clutch assy duee to the rounded corners.

With the wrench or the Double D tool you can easily torque it back to 55 ft/lbs. Shouldn't need anti seize on the screw threads but the crankshaft to bearings does need it. Matter of fact some the mowers I work on actually have blue Loctite on the threads. Plus if drive belt pulley will come off a little anti-seize on the shaft is needed too (as noted by Bert). Boy I hate Cub Cadet ZTRs as they didn't use any anti-seize at the factory and I end destroying the drive belt pulleys just to get the engines off.

And those without the Double D you hold the flywheel at one of the ignition coil's posts with a large flat screwdriver in the ring gear teeth. Now of course you may need a helper for this.


#45

H

Hustler27

Okay, so new clutch, purchase a torque wrench to tighten the clutch after replacement, and I need to find an impact driver to remove the bad clutch?

How do I make sure that I invest in the right torque wrench for the job?


#46

M

MParr

Hustler27 said:
Okay, so new clutch, purchase a torque wrench to tighten the clutch after replacement, and I need to find an impact driver to remove the bad clutch?

How do I make sure that I invest in the right torque wrench for the job?
Click to expand...
A 3/8” torque wrench will work. You are looking at anywhere between 45 lb.ft. to 55 lb.ft. depending on the bolt size. You don’t necessarily need an impact driver to remove the bolt. All you have to do is prevent the crankshaft from turning. The Double D setup as mentioned above will make it easy. A strap wrench around the pulley will work. You will need to remove the belt for that. Heck, you have to remove the belt anyway.


#47

H

Hustler27

Dealership where I bought the mower said it was very unlikely there was anything wrong with the clutch due to the belt breaking. They figure there is still part of the belt stuck somewhere. I haven't found any yet, and all of the pulleys seem to spin without issue, but in cleaning around one, I found this. This feels like it could be the issue. Any thoughts?





Went to slide my fingers around the pulley to check for any remnants of the belt. Fit fine under one side, but could only get them about half way around before they didn't fit.


#48

M

MParr

It’s damn sure cocked sideways. You will need to pull it off and see how much damage there is and what needs to be replaced. I think that you may find the deck top to be warped a bit. The carriage bolt goes up through the deck and that area is not reinforced. The constant pressure from the belt on the pulley and carriage bolt causes the deck metal to warp.


#49

C

clubairth

One other comment since your in there already?
The upper cogged belt in your picture is the drive belt for the Hydro's. These are problematic and I have gone thru 2 in 350 hours of operation.

I have a Raptor SD 54" but I think your belt will be the same? Easy to check too.
Mine stock belt was Hustler #603907 this has been superseded by Hustler to belt #607400. Which is NOT a cogged belt. I read Hustler found the cogged belts had a much higher failure rate compared to the non-cogged versions.

Glad your found the cock eyed pulley as I was going to suggest that your pullies were most likely the reason why your machine threw the belt. I would for sure replace at least that one pulley. Be aware you might have additional pulley problems to.

Good idea on that plastic idler pulley replacement too! Do you have a part number?
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