MrLarkins
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- Jun 23, 2023
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nope
Help Diagnosing Issue
- Thread starter MrLarkins
- Start date
Uh. Most mowers don't have seat belts and most don't have ROPS either.
Every time I have used a rider or a zero turn like that it has been in short pants and flip flops and I've never worn safety glasses when using any mower.
I've come much closer to having an injury from working on tools, saws, appliances, cars etc even just rust falling into eyes or brake fluid etc then I have ever by operating any mower.
To each their own....I guess.
This is a long shot but I was given a kohler engine on a heavy road equipment bitumen stripper. It presented the same symptoms but after having been serviced. After eliminating valves, plugs, air leaks, fuel age and quantity, I removed the fuel lines and found that an in-line filter had been fitted and was back to front by the directional arrow. I changed it around and the client advised it is now working fine.
Something so simple but easily overlooked by complex diagnostics and thinking. Trust this help.
Something so simple but easily overlooked by complex diagnostics and thinking. Trust this help.
I had a command 25hp twin.... It had an injection module that was going bad. It behaved the same way. After about 8mins it would stumble then die. Eventually, the module burned up smoking... This was nearly impossible to troubleshoot... eventually replaced the flywheel and ignition coils which eliminated the module. Your coil will have two spade tabs rather than one if you have this setup. And there will be a small electrical box (relay sized).
A second thing I've seen is a plugged air filter (that did not look that dirty) which would cause the engine to stumble after about 15 mins. Swapped air filter all was well.
Your situation sounds like a heat related issue or an issue that just takes time to develop. This can be electrical or mechanical.
Electrical issues (many electrical parts can fail in a way where they heat up, they stop working):
1) connectors where higher current is present (ignition switch, voltage regulator, battery terminals, ground connections)
2) Voltage regulator itself
3) Stator
4) backfire solenoid (on bottom of carb)
Mechanical issues:
1) look at joints (intake to head, intake to carb, hoses to carb etc.)
2) hose ends, look for loose fitting, cracked, dry rot etc.)
3) head to block
The above tend to manifest as spark and air problems.
Fuel Related Problems
1) Carb (you can bypass all other fuel related parts by using a gravity fed tank to see if the problem goes away; if so, the rest of fuel system is ok)
2) Filter
3) Pump
4) Sludge in tank. (can get "sucked" upto filter and prevent flow)
5) Cracks in fuel lines; (in tank, the crack can be below the fuel line and work fine until the fuel level drops)...
Many of these are things that may have been looked at directly or indirectly or seem simple. I don't mean to insult you or anyone else... I hope this will stir others' thoughts for more specific things.
A second thing I've seen is a plugged air filter (that did not look that dirty) which would cause the engine to stumble after about 15 mins. Swapped air filter all was well.
Your situation sounds like a heat related issue or an issue that just takes time to develop. This can be electrical or mechanical.
Electrical issues (many electrical parts can fail in a way where they heat up, they stop working):
1) connectors where higher current is present (ignition switch, voltage regulator, battery terminals, ground connections)
2) Voltage regulator itself
3) Stator
4) backfire solenoid (on bottom of carb)
Mechanical issues:
1) look at joints (intake to head, intake to carb, hoses to carb etc.)
2) hose ends, look for loose fitting, cracked, dry rot etc.)
3) head to block
The above tend to manifest as spark and air problems.
Fuel Related Problems
1) Carb (you can bypass all other fuel related parts by using a gravity fed tank to see if the problem goes away; if so, the rest of fuel system is ok)
2) Filter
3) Pump
4) Sludge in tank. (can get "sucked" upto filter and prevent flow)
5) Cracks in fuel lines; (in tank, the crack can be below the fuel line and work fine until the fuel level drops)...
Many of these are things that may have been looked at directly or indirectly or seem simple. I don't mean to insult you or anyone else... I hope this will stir others' thoughts for more specific things.
Most of us on here are all about safety. Why? Because there is a better alternative. You know, a smarter way of living slash doing things.
When I was a kid my grandfather lost an eye using a weedeater. No glasses worn while using. That was tough to see. I was there when it happened.
Later in life working on a yard crew, couple guys did the same. Oh it's just a small yard and left their safety glasses on the dash. We will just be here for a minute...... And we sat in the Emergency Room all day. One guy was leftie after that. Other was nicknamed RIGHT!!! I would yell it at him RIGHT.
Do as you wish guy. I hope nothing ever happens to you or your family.
Even Superman was not immune.
There was even a factory kohler TSB about fuel filters on the older commands. Using aftermarket filters could cause a problem or after it ran a while it would not flow enough fuel and a factory cooler filter fixed it up.
It's probably the only engine I've ever seen a situation for the fuel filter made any difference at all. Normally you can go 20 plus years on a fuel filter and not even change it and the fuel filters will never be full of fuel but only like a quarter to half full and they will run just fine.
You will notice I said nothing about weed eaters. I said lawn mowers and zero turns.
I hate weed eaters and when I use them, which is very, very rarely, I have to wait until I happen to have jeans on because using a weed eater in shorts beat your legs to death with debris and that's just uncomfortable.
It's also very smart to use safety glasses if you don't wear glasses when using a weed eater because those little jerks throw things everywhere..
I have no problem taking My chances with a push mower or sitting on a ride or a zero turn with no safety glasses on and frankly anytime I see someone who put safety glasses on for that I just roll my eyes, yes, I still have two of them, and shake my head.
As I said, to each their own but I do call a lot of people safety freaks.
In fact, for zero turn mowers and commercial grade mowers it's not the operator that should have safety glasses on it's the other people who may be in the vicinity!!
CubbyCommando
Member
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- Apr 27, 2022
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Hea,
Have you replaced the spark plugs or checked them very closely for cracks? I've seen a hairline crack in the ceramic part of the spark plug, start to act up once it gets hot. Also, almost 2k hours on that mower, wow. You've definitely gotten your money out of it, if that's any consolation. Good luck.
Have you replaced the spark plugs or checked them very closely for cracks? I've seen a hairline crack in the ceramic part of the spark plug, start to act up once it gets hot. Also, almost 2k hours on that mower, wow. You've definitely gotten your money out of it, if that's any consolation. Good luck.
Cajun power
Active Member
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- Apr 11, 2023
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I am going to suggest simple....look at your choke linkage and springs...also look at your throttle valve to governor linkage and main spring and damper spring. Sometimes that linkage gets damaged from debris, branches, twigs...and or the springs are missing. Without those linkages and springs the carb could be starving the engine of fuel...as either of those two valves might be erratically uncontrolled. Just a suggestion to rule out something, before you get elbows deep.
Buy a compression tester and a leak down tester. These are necessary first steps to diagnosis engine running issues. Everything is just guessing, seem to be getting off course?? Valve adjustment cold (70 degree ish) compression, warmed up engine. Good luck!!