Hechinger Wont Start

[davbell22602]

those types of ignition switches cost from $14-$9....im sure you have a multimeter to test the switch.......

I'm not anything off the switch except when the key is turned to I get unstable voltage on the "S" terminal then it stops on 10v. I already tried a new switch and same results.

 

[reddragon]

i would check all your grounds and that fuse deal [ before and after] .....go ahead and disconnect the battery and run continuity tests thru the harness to make sure its not a lemon.....its got to be simple...its just trying to hide itself:confused2:

 

[davbell22602]

i would check all your grounds and that fuse deal [ before and after] .....go ahead and disconnect the battery and run continuity tests thru the harness to make sure its not a lemon.....its got to be simple...its just trying to hide itself:confused2:

That fuse deal is the replacement MTD part number for the circuit breaker. I'm supposed to have a single spade solonoid but someone put a 2 spade on it.

 

[reddragon]

ive used universal solenoids with the more spades with no problem.....but if your not getting proper voltage to the ign. switch in the first place...then its irrelevant...tell us what your findings are

 

[davbell22602]

I can take top red wire thats on the spade and touch the hot wire that goes to the pos battery and the engine will turn over.

 

[davbell22602]

I was on phone with Dixie tech support since I bought harness from them. They told the top red wire with eyelet that had on top spade terminal goes the pos terminal on the battery because it provides power to the key switch through "B" terminal. So I did that. They told that funny lookin terminal on the other red wire slides/presses on the spade terminal so that goes on the top spade on the solonoid(they assumed I had 1 spade solonoid). So did that. So move all the tools off the flywheel then turn the key and it spins over with key switch now.

Still not certain if the blades will come on since I dont have seat with built in seat switch on it though.

 

[reddragon]

its good to hear!......figured it was a simple fix....on the seat switches..its often a case of having both closed and open parts to it...you just got to make sure which is which........out of curiosity,what year is this rig?

 

[davbell22602]

Not really sure what year it is. I wanna guess 1980's mtd/hechinger 46in, 18 L head twin briggs.

It just died on me. Now when I turn the key all I here is the clicking sound from the solonoid but starter wont spin. Jumping it wont spin the starter either. I assume that means bad starter or solonoid?

 

[reddragon]

you should feel the the solenoid thump when you turn the key.....of course you use the multimeter to see if the voltage is too low..........i would still get the battery load tested...just to get that question out of the way....you'll need to charge the battery before getting it load tested...i like to give a good 12 to 24 hours when charging a battery.....could you take a picture of the whole tractor?....id like to see which front end its got on it.......thanks:wink::thumbsup:

 

[davbell22602]

I can jump the starter with jumper cables and it spin with no problems. I got 12.73 at the battery. 12.36 at the spade terminal. 12.72 large post that has the red cable going to the starter. 6.50v on the hot side of the solonoid the drops to .04 when I turn key and here the click sound.

Here's the pic of the hechinger. This before I repainted the grille, hood and front fenders.