Hard to start

Z

z28derick

Member
Hey team. I've got a B&S that's very hard to start model 313-777 type 0112-E1. I've adjusted the valves to no avail. Replaced battery and starter. I think it has the "common" issue of the pressure relief mechanism on the cam being busted. It runs great once it starts. I don't really have the means of fixing that so I'm wondering if anyone with a similar issue has had any luck with a heavy duty starter? If so, any particular recommendations?
 
as others said - is it having trouble spinning, or trouble running even though it spins freely.

If the valves are gapped looser than spec, the compression release will be less effective.
 
slomo said:
1.Adjust valves to factory specs for YOUR engine.
2.LOAD test battery.
3.Clean all grounds.
Click to expand...
Yep I've adjusted the valves a few times with a feeler gauge. Brand new battery. I should add it used to help to adjust the valves but no longer does which leads me to believe it's the compression relief mechanism on the cam. Once it starts it purrs.
 
Were you on the heel of the cam when you adjusted clearance?

Most four stroke engines have 2 TDC strokes.
 
There is no "better" starter made to overcome a camshaft with a broken compression relief mechanism.

Have you pulled the spark plug with the valve cover off and watched the valve operation to see if the small bump of the intake valve is occurring? There are videos online about how to check for this,
 
the compression release lives on the cam gear. There are two cams depending on when the engine was built. One is NLA and the other $123. The other alternative is to buy a new motor for it. The cam is not all that hard to replace, pull the engine and then the sump. Put everything back together. It is like 8 or 9 bolts. Then adjust the valves when done. If it is laying on its side, the lifters won't even fall out. If they do, keep track of where they came from. Might have to replace the sump crankshaft seal too if the rust on the crankshaft damages it. Hardest part is scraping off the old gasket and cleaning the sump cover. Date code is on the engine. It reads YYMMDD-factoryID The serial numbers are not numeric when ordering parts. An engine that starts with say 11 was made in 2011. An engine starting with 99 was built in 1999. The 11 number is newer than than the 99 even though a serial reading 990612XX might seem newer than one reading 111203XX.

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The compression release is on the intake valve.
set the intake valve lash at .003 with the piston 1/4 inch past TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE.
If it still hangs insert a .002 feeler under the rocker so as to take the lash to .001 and test crank thru with the spark plug cable disconnected. I've seen some start and run at .001-.002 with a broken comp relief or a worn cam lobe is why I said to leave the ignition killed when testing. You are only testing the crank through.

You need to watch carefully for the intake valve rocker arm BUMP that auto doc's mentions with the intake lash at .003. The short bump on the intake is what DUMPS some compression just little before the piston reaches TDC allowing the starter to crank through the compression stroke. The valve recloses after the bump/dump allowing for enough compression to start and run at TDC.
You can find You tube video that shows how to watch for the momentary bump.
 
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