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Hi guys, so recently bought another aerator (used) was just poking around comparing it to our first one cleaning it up a bit etc. Both are Honda Gx120. I noticed even tho it has the same springs etc they function differently. On the older one the governor arm sorta “clicks” the throttle valve open or close there’s no smooth moving the arm back and forth. On my original aerator as seen in the video the arm freely moves back and forth. Also on the older one the carb throttle doesn’t move at all when playing with the throttle arm or governor arm. The other one moving either arm moves it. Hope that wasn’t confusing lol. I’m just trying to understand how it works and if both are “correct”? Both run fine, I feel like the used one we just bought idles low but both function. Just curious why one clicks and the other is smooth? Ty!!

The truth is the first one should operate like the second one. the governor is binding some place. The throttle shaft in the carb could be causing the issues/ the governor arm could be rubbing on something or could be internal. Also could be something bent causing the throttle shaft to bind on the throttle control assembly. Either way the governor should move smoothly with clicking or binding.

ILENGINE said:

The truth is the first one should operate like the second one. the governor is binding some place. The throttle shaft in the carb could be causing the issues/ the governor arm could be rubbing on something or could be internal. Also could be something bent causing the throttle shaft to bind on the throttle control assembly. Either way the governor should move smoothly with clicking or binding.

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Thank you! That’s what I needed to know before I took apart something that was fine haha. Ty!

ILENGINE said:

The truth is the first one should operate like the second one. the governor is binding some place. The throttle shaft in the carb could be causing the issues/ the governor arm could be rubbing on something or could be internal. Also could be something bent causing the throttle shaft to bind on the throttle control assembly. Either way the governor should move smoothly with clicking or binding.

Click to expand...

ILENGINE said:

The truth is the first one should operate like the second one. the governor is binding some place. The throttle shaft in the carb could be causing the issues/ the governor arm could be rubbing on something or could be internal. Also could be something bent causing the throttle shaft to bind on the throttle control assembly. Either way the governor should move smoothly with clicking or binding.

Click to expand...

What would cause the governor arm to keep settling mid throttle (not sure if that’s the correct term). When I start up the idle rpm’s are already at 3600ish when max full throttle should be 3900. That’s with the throttle turned all way low. Turning the throttle stop screw does nothing to adjust cause it never touches it during idle. When I shut it off the arm that attaches to the governor just stays in the middle. In the video it looks like I’m pushing it but I’m actually pulling the arm towards me so it rests on the stop screw and idles correct. Soon as I let go it goes back to the middle and revs to 3600. If I push the throttle arm to fast it goes way above 3900 (only did it once to check)

Did you get the binding issue corrected. If not then they will need to be explored to find a cause. Also from the still picture it appears that the spring covering the throttle linkage may be connected to the carb in the wrong location. should be closer to the throttle linkage in its own hole. also appears that the throttle linkage could be bend close to the governor arm. And where the throttle is sitting without the engine running doesn't matter because it will move freely without the governor arm or governor spring pulling one way or the other. Also make sure that throttle cable is allowing the throttle control to move all the way to the idle position ie all the way to the right.

ILENGINE said:

Did you get the binding issue corrected. If not then they will need to be explored to find a cause. Also from the still picture it appears that the spring covering the throttle linkage may be connected to the carb in the wrong location. should be closer to the throttle linkage in its own hole. also appears that the throttle linkage could be bend close to the governor arm. And where the throttle is sitting without the engine running doesn't matter because it will move freely without the governor arm or governor spring pulling one way or the other. Also make sure that throttle cable is allowing the throttle control to move all the way to the idle position ie all the way to the right.

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I’ll check all those out ty! This one is actually the free moving one not the on that was clicking. That would be my luck haha.

Reversed the spring and replaced it with a new one still no joy. While toying with the old spring it accidentally popped off and the engine ran perfect lol. That’s not shown in the video, the video is with the new spring. I’d be happy with 2000 idle but it just stays high! If you even think about moving the throttle from minimum the thing starts screaming. What else can I check? Ty for the help

That is really weird
That spring goes from the governor arm & the throttle arm
All it does is hold the two arms tight against the rod that connects them so the throttle butterfly can not flutter due to wear in the holes the rod goes into
I have seen people hook it up wrong
It is not particularly important and most engines will run fine without it .

Is there any harm in leaving it off? Everything seems to run perfect with it off. If it would damage it I’ll just keep fiddling. Ty again

bertsmobile1 said:

That is really weird
That spring goes from the governor arm & the throttle arm
All it does is hole the two arms tight against the rod that connects them so the throttle butterfly can not flutter due to wear in the holes the shaft goes into
I have seen people hook it up wrong
It is not particularly important and most engines will run fine without it .

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Here’s the new video, the only thing I did was take off the spring. Could it be a governor arm adjustment issue? Thank you all

CrusinSusan said:

Is there any harm in leaving it off? Everything seems to run perfect with it off. If it would damage it I’ll just keep fiddling. Ty again

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Just noticed you said it would be fine off, oops. Ty!

No problems what so ever
All that happens is you can get a little fluttering when the governor allows the throttle to open up .

bertsmobile1 said:

No problems what so ever
All that happens is you can get a little fluttering when the governor allows the throttle to open up .

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I was racking my brain last night cause this aerator engine has always started up every season, first second pull no problem. Ran great, always check/change oil and grease bearings on schedule. The only thing I can think of I did different was instead of running it dry of gas like I have been I remembered I watched a video saying that was bad for the gaskets blah blah and to pour some stabil 360 in with a bit of gas and leave that for storage . I should of left good enough alone, lesson learned lol. Could this be a carb issue you think? Even though it starts right up and runs? (Granted it don’t run correct and has high rpm’s now) or maybe a governor issue? Would valves being off cause that? Very much enjoy learning from you guys and I appreciate it as always!

Yes
While not critical for a governed engine variations in valve lash will vary the valve timing, the actual volume of fuel that can get into the cylinder and if it has a decompressor the amount of charge that is bleed off .
Lots of idiots on you tube who apply things that are correct for one type of engine to ones where it is incorrect.
The proceedure you were using is the best, run it dry , drain the fuel tank & put that in your car, turn the fuel tap off and leave it till next year .