Repairs Gravely zt hd drivebelt replacement

Windy Hill Farm

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Barely have 56 hours on new zt60 hd Gravely mower and tall grass broke the hydro drive belt . do I have to remove the clutch to replace the drive belt ? Looks that way to me but thought I'd ask first before I did all that .
 

mechanic mark

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Ariens Order Owners Manuals enter your model & serial numbers from mower data plate & click on owners or service manual & download for drive belt replacement instructions, I would not think you need to remove clutch assy. just belt keeper, study it visually taking your time.
 

twigsnberries

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Barely have 56 hours on new zt60 hd Gravely mower and tall grass broke the hydro drive belt . do I have to remove the clutch to replace the drive belt ? Looks that way to me but thought I'd ask first before I did all that .

I know it has been a few years but how did this go?? Mine went bad at 56 hours as well on a zt60. Started slipping then let go. I think this is a common problem. So....does the clutch have to come off??
 

PARTSGUY12

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I am in the process of changing mine as well. 2013 ZT60HD. It went out at 50 hours, dealer replaced. I am now at 200 hours and it broke again. I am trying, with no success, to replace it myself. The clutch does not have to come off, however I can not get the belt to fit over all 3 pulleys. I lack about 3/4 inch from being able to get the belt on. It is very frustrating. I am looking for advice as I will need to mow any day now lol!
 

bertsmobile1

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never been under a Gravely ZTR but if worst come to worst the engine is only held in place by 4 bolts, remove 3 and loosen the 4th that will allow the engine to rotate enough to give you room to get the belt on.
Dont take all 4 bolts out cause then it will be really hard to get them back in .
 

PARTSGUY12

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Well I got the belt on. Had to take motor loose and pivot the motor but got it on. All the pulleys are tight and seem fine. One thing that concerns me though is there is a cross brace from left to right of the frame and the belt rubs on it. Seems like that would wear it out but it definitely is the only way the belt can go so must be right.
 

PARTSGUY12

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2 hours of mowing and it shredded the belt again. Something is not right. Only 200 hours on this mower. Called the dealer to come get it and fix it, I'm done lol.
 

mhavanti

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PARTSGUY12,

Get an action camera (GoPro or equivalent), put it under the engine where the belt operates. With the rear wheels off the ground, run it thru all the different stick commands with the throttle wide open. Then watch the video of the belt operation. If during the operation the belt is hitting the fans, rubbing hard on the cross brace, etc. then you can get an idea what the culprit may be.

I would ask the dealer to document what they do so as to know if their fix was the cure or if the fix was only good while running around the parking lot at the dealership. No sense in repeating what you or the dealer may have already done if the fix isn't the cure.

Max
 

PARTSGUY12

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So, dealer called today and said the crank bolt/clutch bolt is broke off in the crank, allowing clutch to slip down about 3/4 inch. This is allowing the belt to slap against the frame cross brace. Not sure how I didn't notice this, but I didn't. It does probably explain why the belt wouldn't go on- I am guessing by the pulley being out of alignment it was just enough further distance that it would not physically reach. So they are going to try to drill it out but said they haven't had success in the past. New crankshaft or engine. The damn thing only has 200 hours on it. I am so frustrated I just want to trade the thing off, however I really cannot afford the payment. I can't afford to fix it either so I guess I'll sit here and drink beer and try to figure out what to do. Thanks for letting me vent.
 

mhavanti

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Drilling out a bolt broken off into anything can be fun. Main thing is, grind the bolt off best you can to a 90 degree angle to the crankshaft. Then remember to pay attention to the thread beginning. Once you see where the thread begins, take note of the depth of the thread and think about that same amount on the opposite side embedded into the crankshaft. Then you can find center to place a nice, deep dimple to begin drilling on center of the bolt.

Begin with small drill bits, lots of cutting oil and continue moving up to larger drill bits until you have drilled it to the point you can use an ease out on the broken bolt. You would most likely have good luck with a left handed cutting drill bit set. Before using the ease out, heat the crankshaft end to bright red, while using a couple of vise grips for heat sinks and you can also use wet towels from an ice bucket to keep the crankshaft cool before the heat gets into the crank seal.

Shouldn't be a big deal to remove the bolt.

Good luck,

Max
 
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