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I just ordered what I thought were decent aftermarket carbs for both of these pieces of equipment that have been sitting for a few years. The manufacturer's box stated "HUTZL" brand, but both give me the same results on both machines: easy start, but no power, no acceleration, no running after a few seconds. One won't prime properly, the other does, but both machines just bog down with any attempt to get the motor(s) beyond mid-range RPM.

Am I missing something? I've torn down outdoor power equipment for years, have done hundreds of maintenance overhaul kits (carb, fuel/air filter, plug/gap, fuel lines, tank clean out, oil pumps (on saws), and so on, but I just can NOT get these two machines to run, and they both run exactly the same, CRAPPY!

Does anyone here have a recommendation for a good quality aftermarket carb for these units? I'm CERTAIN I'm dealing with a carb issue, but then again. Heck, I just don't know, but I'd like to get them running since I'm doing this for a buddy and doing it for nothing to help him out.

Thank you!

Not that this helps but stay away from non OEM carbs. Some of them "might" be okay but I call them the Kenny Rogers Gambler Series of carbs.

slomo

slomo said:

Not that this helps but stay away from non OEM carbs. Some of them "might" be okay but I call them the Kenny Rogers Gambler Series of carbs.

slomo

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"Roger" that! I'm of the same opinion, but the OEM carbs are sometimes priced at more than the stupid piece of equipment is worth! Ughhhh!

SamD said:

"Roger" that! I'm of the same opinion, but the OEM carbs are sometimes priced at more than the stupid piece of equipment is worth! Ughhhh!

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I would clean the snot out of the original one. Run it through the wife's dishwasher on hot pot scrubber mode. Course remove the float and rubber pieces first. Blow both ways with compressed air. Might take 3 cleanings to get her to hum. Spray out both ways with carb cleaner and EYE PROTECTION. Soak the sucker in vinegar if needed or lemon juice.

slomo

slomo said:

I would clean the snot out of the original one. Run it through the wife's dishwasher on hot pot scrubber mode. Course remove the float and rubber pieces first. Blow both ways with compressed air. Might take 3 cleanings to get her to hum. Spray out both ways with carb cleaner and EYE PROTECTION. Soak the sucker in vinegar if needed or lemon juice.

slomo

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Are the Echo rebuild kits any good??

SamD said:

Are the Echo rebuild kits any good??

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Never used one but but don't see any issues. Some of the other guys might chime in with actual experience with them. What is wrong with yours?

slomo

I am used to just replacing carbs rather than rebuilding them as my time is worth more to me than the time it takes to rebuild one - quick couple of bolts, and I'm back in business. These aftermarket carbs (two of them, one on each machine) will not let the motors run. It's worth noting that the hedge trimmer and string trimmer both use the exact same carb, so I've been able to swap the carbs back and forth to see what changes.

They start up just fine, idle fine, but will not accelerate past about 2000rpm before bogging down. I can feather the throttle trigger and get them up a little higher, but they eventually bog down, sometimes shutting off completely. They will both fire right back up, but it doesn't get any better. I'll take the carb off one machine then put it on the other, but same issue.

There is a weird caveat to this however: I eventually got the hedge trimmer (HC-150) to run like it should after messing with feathering the throttle for about 5 minutes and it ran well. I put it aside for a few days, then tried it again yesterday, and I'm back to the bogging down. I really can't figure this one out beyond the two aftermarket carbs

Make sure to fuel lines are clear and not cracked. And the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank is good.

Bogging is either a plugged exhaust screen EPA Forestry crap deal or insufficient fuel delivery. Or a screw setting on the high or low side if you have those.

Hoping you are trying with fresh mix right? Plugs are clean?

slomo

slomo said:

Make sure to fuel lines are clear and not cracked. And the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank is good.

Bogging is either a plugged exhaust screen EPA Forestry crap deal or insufficient fuel delivery. Or a screw setting on the high or low side if you have those.

Hoping you are trying with fresh mix right? Plugs are clean?

slomo

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All of those were replaced with new components. Replaced the following:

carburetor
air filter
fuel filter
fuel lines
rubber grommet for fuel lines
spark plug

I have used a lot of the Hurtzl / farmer tech/ arbourtech products over the years with quite good results, to date .
They are all the same products.
What people forget is carbs are changing and most now days contain a check valve that is destroyed by using carb cleaner.
This is why Walbro brought out their new carb spray .
I stopped using carb spray quite some time ago .

SamD said:

All of those were replaced with new components. Replaced the following:

carburetor
air filter
fuel filter
fuel lines
rubber grommet for fuel lines
spark plug

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When I started out 8 years ago, I was just a parts swapper when it come to hand held engines.
The I made the effort to lear how to test them properly and since then the number of carbs I have ripped apart or replaced has dropped off drastically.
Find the Joe Pace videos on You tube.
Note he always starts by testing the fuel tank, then the crank case seal then the carb.
Since that time I have replaced countless fuel lines & tank grommets that were the actual problem , not the carb

bertsmobile1 said:

When I started out 8 years ago, I was just a parts swapper when it come to hand held engines.
The I made the effort to lear how to test them properly and since then the number of carbs I have ripped apart or replaced has dropped off drastically.
Find the Joe Pace videos on You tube.
Note he always starts by testing the fuel tank, then the crank case seal then the carb.
Since that time I have replaced countless fuel lines & tank grommets that were the actual problem , not the carb

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Interesting, thanks for sharing that Bert. I will have to check it out.

slomo

I used no carb spray in the new Hurtzl carbs, but I hear you. I'm lost on these two pieces...

bertsmobile1 said:

When I started out 8 years ago, I was just a parts swapper when it come to hand held engines.
The I made the effort to lear how to test them properly and since then the number of carbs I have ripped apart or replaced has dropped off drastically.
Find the Joe Pace videos on You tube.
Note he always starts by testing the fuel tank, then the crank case seal then the carb.
Since that time I have replaced countless fuel lines & tank grommets that were the actual problem , not the carb

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I'm with you, and for higher end products I'll do that, but this was to be a quick process. Thank you for the insight though! S