Generac/ Dixie Chopper carburetor bleed air jet O-rings.

[Auto Doc's]

That RPM range drops the Hz down to 57.5-58.34 Hz and not 59-60 Hz which would be 3540-3600 rpm for a two pole alternator.

Formula is RPM / 60 for Hz. The formula changes to RPM / 30 for 4 pole alternators but of these are on diesel generators.

Hello Star Tech,

If they are servo-controlled throttle they maintain a close target speed goal of 60Hz (3600 RPM).

When it comes to the conventional linkage type with a surge spring I try to set them at 61.5Hz under no load conditions and then test for governor droop under full load. I seldom see a properly loaded conventional small generator drop below 58Hz unless there is a governor issue or the motor is just plain worn out and compression is low.

I would prefer to have a larger industrial diesel 4-pole generator when times get tough, but I just don't have that in the budget, and I do not have enough power outages (yet) to justify going any larger than what I have. Aside from that, I would likely have to rewire direct for larger input automatic transfer switch. Even worse is the price of diesel fuel, so I do not see any savings happening in the long run.

Even though my generator is rated for 15KW continuous running Watts, the most it can produce through a 50A outlet is 12KW. This is what confuses people who buy larger portable generators. The total rated Wattage is calculated by adding the output of all the outlets on the generator and not just the 1 outlet.

 

[Rivets]

Star, you are mathmaticaly correct, but it doesn’t always work that way in real life. To often i’ve seen where real life techs and behind the desk engineers don’t always agree. I’m sure you have seen the same. As i said, 50% of the time reducing the RPM’s has helped me solve this problem.

 

[ILENGINE]

Hello ILENGINE,

Even though we are straying off the current subject a little, this is an interesting question you pose.

Most I have seen require a dedicated scanner/ code reader platform, but I have seen OBD adapters offered for various UTV's and other equipment, not sure if the communications protocol is the same Baud rate for an automotive scanner to communicate. (Maybe Generic ODB might work on these because all network systems are approved/ developed to meet SAE standards?)

The biggest problem is manufacturers are withholding code a repair information and treating has exclusive to only their dealer networks. Sad problem with that is that no one is training the dealer tech or the technology is too advanced for many of them to even understand. Dealer tech training is a joke. Aside from that, the employee turnover rate is very fast.

I have not had the pleasure of dealing with very many fuel injection systems on riders, but I have been dealing with these on-board diagnostic systems in the automotive and UTV vehicles since they came out. (I'm formerly a master ASE automotive technician)

On the UTV side practically everything has switched to fuel injection, and they can be tricky to work with if a person does not understand how a BMAP, TMAP and TPS sensor work. A person cannot just start adjusting the idle stop screw without making things worse.

I mostly deal with 5 to 20-year-old fuel injected Polaris Rangers, John Deere Gators and Kawasaki mules around my area. The main problems I see are usually temp sensors, water in the fuel and failing fuel pumps. Of course, these get even more neglect and abuse than most other equipment.

Just with a little checking of service manuals. It appears that Briggs and Kohler are both using the J1939 protocol. So a J1939 compatible OBD2 scanner should at least be able to read them.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Thanks,

That is good to know.

At the moment I only have a 2-digit code reader for Polaris and mid 2000 Harley's along with a couple of special sensor testers. Most of the time just following through the special key on code sequence will provide a digital readout on the odometer, other times that method is not reliable.

Having the ability to read some basic live data makes a big difference.

I don't miss the old days in the automotive shops of cycling the key on and off 3 times and then counting the engine light blinking sequence.

I may take a chance on an OBD scanner adapter when I have another one come in that needs to be scanned.

For customers with fuel injection machines or anything I don't have repair data on, I have them pay for the repair information on CD as part of my initial diagnostic fees.

If they don't agree to that, I don't have time to play guessing games. I've only had one customer that did not agree and after about a month of shopping around and getting bad "shade tree" advice and parts guesses he came back and we did business.

Sometimes the customer has to be educated on the fact that many repairs are not simple.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Thanks,

That is good to know.

At the moment I only have a 2-digit code reader for Polaris and mid 2000 Harley's along with a couple of special sensor testers. Most of the time just following through the special key on code sequence will provide a digital readout on the odometer, other times that method is not reliable.

Having the ability to read some basic live data makes a big difference.

I don't miss the old days in the automotive shops of cycling the key on and off 3 times and then counting the engine light blinking sequence.

I may take a chance on an OBD scanner adapter when I have another one come in that needs to be scanned.

For customers with fuel injection machines or anything I don't have repair data on, I have them pay for the repair information on CD as part of my initial diagnostic fees.

If they don't agree to that, I don't have time to play guessing games. I've only had one customer that did not agree and after about a month of shopping around and getting bad "shade tree" advice and parts guesses he came back and we did business.

Sometimes the customer has to be educated on the fact that many repairs are not simple.

Auto Doc-
I will be getting into more ATVs and UTVs with fuel injection, sensors, and OBD troubleshooting next year. It seems the fuel pumps are problematic along with clogged fuel injectors. There is a guy on YouTube I watch, The ATV Hustle. He buys, repairs and sells rigs for a living. I see very few fuel injected engines with the mowers I repair because those are often for commercial customers.

 

[StarTech]

Just have fun with a lot of headache pills.

I had BobCat UTV in the shop several years ago that even the dealer couldn't fix, just keep selling the customer a lot parts. It took thoroughly reading the service manual to find the solution which was a simple adjustment. That adjustment was buried deep in the manual. It was the parking brake adjustment so the new injectors and fuel pump wasn't needed as it was in leap mode only.

Just watch out for those Cam Am ATVs nearly everything is computer controlled and no way to read the codes without their scanner; unless, things have changed.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Auto Doc-
I will be getting into more ATVs and UTVs with fuel injection, sensors, and OBD troubleshooting next year. It seems the fuel pumps are problematic along with clogged fuel injectors. There is a guy on YouTube I watch, The ATV Hustle. He buys, repairs and sells rigs for a living. I see very few fuel injected engines with the mowers I repair because those are often for commercial customers.

Hello Tiger,

It is just the way the consumer market trends go.

If it is pleasure equipment they can have fun with or need to make a living with, they will be more inclined to spend the money to keep them going.

Most of the commercial lawn equipment folks around my area are locked in with "cradle to the grave" dealer service contracts, so the independents like me don't have a chance.

If it is a mower for daily or weekly "chores", regular end-consumers are usually inclined to just throw away or give away the broken-down stuff and go buy new. (They have easy credit card financing) A new mower every 3 to 5 years is not uncommon for many folks. By the time I see a few of them, they are already on the 2nd, 3rd owner or ready for the salvage.

ATVs and UTVs cost serious money these days (even used) so people are less likely to trash them. When they compare the price of a new unit, it makes more sense for the customer to invest in the repairs and upkeep maintenance.

I get some UTVs that are "fully decked out" hunting rigs that are more like a compact many minivans on steroids than a utility work mobile. Some have A/C, heat, winches and a full stereo system with plenty of gun racks and mounts.

On the bad side of the UTV and ATV world are the "barn finds". They are literal. With those, you will find all sorts of rodent nests, chewed wiring harnesses and just nasty conditions. If they are too bad, I turn them away quickly. These are not a bargain for anyone.

With UTV stuff if the engine and tranny are still good, I will take the repairs and payments in "stages" for most customers and I never take in "emergency jobs". It is steady work.

If you do get into the ATV/ UTV stuff, invest in an ultrasonic cleaner and a 2-injector cleaning machine. Stay away from the aftermarket "junk" injectors and be careful of the in-fuel pump brands you choose. Genuine OE parts are expensive, but sometimes the only solution.