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With no AVR, do you just increase the RPM's with the carb idle settings to get the V's needed to keep it at 120? The brushes, (from what little I know about brushes) are still pretty long, and the springs behind them aren't too stiff or strong.

Note to add: Was only getting 106v out of one socket. The other socket, (right below it) not getting anything.

Need to put a tach on it and see what it is running. Should be around 3750 no load. Or if you have a hz setting on your meter, set it to hz and then act like you are testing for voltage. Should be running around 60-62 no load. Then go back and check voltage, if you still don't have correct voltage then time to start doing other testing. Gets much more complicated at that point.

Also there should be a bolt or nut to turn to increase rpm that attaches to a governor spring just like a lawnmower. Reason for the 3750 setting is to account for governor droop under load will pull it down to 3600 rpm and 60 hz,

Also the other outlet may be connected to the other leg of the output from the stator. That is the reason that you have to break the interconnect between the 2 outlets on generators to prevent feedback.

ILENGINE said:

Need to put a tach on it and see what it is running. Should be around 3750 no load. Or if you have a hz setting on your meter, set it to hz and then act like you are testing for voltage. Should be running around 60-62 no load. Then go back and check voltage, if you still don't have correct voltage then time to start doing other testing. Gets much more complicated at that point.

Also there should be a bolt or nut to turn to increase rpm that attaches to a governor spring just like a lawnmower. Reason for the 3750 setting is to account for governor droop under load will pull it down to 3600 rpm and 60 hz,

Also the other outlet may be connected to the other leg of the output from the stator. That is the reason that you have to break the interconnect between the 2 outlets on generators to prevent feedback.

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Awesome info, thanks.

Man, I have gotta invest in a tach, like now. I should've done it when I ordered the 2cy vac tester. Was doing a few 2 cycles, and thought I needed it more. UGH!!!!!
Amazon, here I come. lol

If you are going to work on generators, make sure your meter has a hertz setting, as hertz is more important than voltage. Before setting the unit, look at the tag and make sure your unit has 50 or 60 hertz output. Have seen some of the cheaper units only have a 50 hertz output.

240VAC at 50hz is the European standard, very scarce on this side of the pond. Seems odd a 5kv unit would not have an avr. Does it have capacitors?

Might need to put some more load on it to get it all energized?

Rpm meter works just as well. just got to covert rpm to Hz.

RPM / 60 = Hz

Where IL said 3750 it comes out as 62.5 Hz. unloaded. Then the RPM drops to 3600 which is 60 Hz under load. If running at the correct rpm and the voltage is still down or too high then suspect the regulation system.

When ever possible, I always set RPMs under load.

And old mysery guts here will add, beware of your insurance cover.
I do not touch the electrical side of any generator because I am not covered should the unthinkable happen & a customer get a shock.
Almost nobody bothers to ground their generators when using them which makes them very dangerous.
IF they hook the generator that you fixed up to a appliance & the gen runs wild and wrecks the appliance you can also be liable .
To load test a big resistance is the best thing like strip heater with no fan or a water heating element ( might solve the cold wash problem ) as these are not Hz sensitive .
You don't want the bugger your own heat gun / drill / saw etc when trying to put a load on a customers generator that you only have 1 hr worth of billing against it.
What tends to happen ( well to me anyway ) is generator has a major fault so customer tosses it into the shed for fixing latter on then forgets about it & what is wrong with it.
Then there is a black out and they gab it and race it down to you forgetting t tell you when they used it last it blew everything it was connected to.
When testing generators I always hook them up through a cheap power board with a 10A breaker .
The other problem is we are 240 V @ 50 Hz down here and I get a lot of cheap imported generators set up for US 110 @ 60 Hz sold illegally via the web.