Export thread

GCV160 engine boggs down when...

#1

N

nbpt100

When I engage the blade clutch on a GCV160 the engine will bogg down to the point where it will sometimes stall. It usually does not but it almost always does seem close to doing so. What adjustment are needed to make this smoother? I have cleaned the carb and am using fresh gas. Air filter is clean. wondering if governor is not responding quick enough. Does the spring on the throttle butter fly control this somewhat? That spring seems tired. Idle speed with blade off is about 3500 rpm. With the blade on it is about 2900 RPM.


#2

sgkent

sgkent

I'd set the fast speed mixture if it has one.


#3

N

nbpt100

That would be a good idea but it does not have one. I am considering to open the main jet .001. Not sure what else I can do.


#4

S

Sparkland

Mine will only do that when it is first started for the day. After it warms up it is fine.


#5

sgkent

sgkent



#6

B

Briantii

Have you checked the auto choke? Some bogging when cold is somewhat normal. Once warmed up the choke should open automatically and it shouldn’t happen.


#7

N

nbpt100

Briantii said:
Have you checked the auto choke? Some bogging when cold is somewhat normal. Once warmed up the choke should open automatically and it shouldn’t happen.
Click to expand...
This has a manual choke. But a good thought.


#8

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

nbpt100 said:
When I engage the blade clutch on a GCV160 the engine will bogg down to the point where it will sometimes stall. It usually does not but it almost always does seem close to doing so. What adjustment are needed to make this smoother? I have cleaned the carb and am using fresh gas. Air filter is clean. wondering if governor is not responding quick enough. Does the spring on the throttle butter fly control this somewhat? That spring seems tired. Idle speed with blade off is about 3500 rpm. With the blade on it is about 2900 RPM.
Click to expand...

Did this start before you cleaned the carb?


#9

StarTech

StarTech

I currently working on GCV160 here that when cold will start usually on the third pull but when hot will not start at all. Done cleaned the carburetor three times. tired new spark plug, adjusted the valves, tried a new coil. Currently awaiting on an OEM carburetor. If that is not it then will do a leak down leak both cold and hot. I got an idea it is just plain worn out but may have an internal clog in the carburetor that I can't get out.


#10

N

nbpt100

PTmowerMech said:
Did this start before you cleaned the carb?
Click to expand...
IDK. When I got it it would not run. Ceaned carb and it ran good except for what I am describing a excessive bogging down when engaging the blade.

Every one I have seen boggs down a little bit but never to the point of stalling. It is somewhat normal but not when it is this extreme.

I may try to open the carb a tiny amount. That seems like the most practical thing to try.

Could there be something about the governor that may cause it to have a delayed reaction?


#11

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

nbpt100 said:
IDK. When I got it it would not run. Ceaned carb and it ran good except for what I am describing a excessive bogging down when engaging the blade.

Every one I have seen boggs down a little bit but never to the point of stalling. It is somewhat normal but not when it is this extreme.

I may try to open the carb a tiny amount. That seems like the most practical thing to try.

Could there be something about the governor that may cause it to have a delayed reaction?
Click to expand...

There could be a governor issue. But you're getting decent RPMs
There's no noticeable smoke when it bogs down?


#12

S

slomo

nbpt100 said:
Every one I have seen boggs down a little bit but never to the point of stalling.
Click to expand...
Agree. Most of those small 160cc engines lack the torque to spin start 2 blades from a stop. Really bad if you have thick Bermuda or Zoysia. Or wet grass as some cut these days. Dull blades and so on..... Trying to cut off too much at once. Mulch mowing.....

This is one of my main gripes about Honda push mowers.


#13

N

nbpt100

slomo said:
Agree. Most of those small 160cc engines lack the torque to spin start 2 blades from a stop. Really bad if you have thick Bermuda or Zoysia. Or wet grass as some cut these days. Dull blades and so on..... Trying to cut off too much at once. Mulch mowing.....

This is one of my main gripes about Honda push mowers.
Click to expand...
Yes, The 160cc is about 4.5 HP. For a mower of that size and class it should have a bit more power. That is why the newer modles went to the 190 and now 200 cc engines which are around 5.5 to 6 HP. Although, 3.5 hp mowers have cut a million lawns. It will do it,the question is how much time does it take?
In my case the bogging is excessive. I leak tested the engine cold and it was very tight. I suspect it is something else like inadequate fuel supply to the jets.


#14

S

slomo

nbpt100 said:
Yes, The 160cc is about 4.5 HP. For a mower of that size and class it should have a bit more power. That is why the newer modles went to the 190 and now 200 cc engines which are around 5.5 to 6 HP. Although, 3.5 hp mowers have cut a million lawns. It will do it,the question is how much time does it take?
In my case the bogging is excessive. I leak tested the engine cold and it was very tight. I suspect it is something else like inadequate fuel supply to the jets.
Click to expand...
I've mowed with some that nearly killed the engine. And around 1987, we had to put what I call a power strap on them. That was a bungee cord connected to the handle bar and the throttle lever directly. As in running it wide open, with the blade on first. On mowed weekly grass, they would costs us time per yard no doubt. Bags wouldn't fill all the way and such. Owner of that lawn crew I was on got rid of them in 2 days.

On this one, I would remove and boil clean the carb. Dump the fuel tank out. Decarbonize the cylinder and valves. Valve adjustment and cooling fin cleaning. Give it the best shot at reviving some hp.


#15

N

nbpt100

slomo said:
I've mowed with some that nearly killed the engine. And around 1987, we had to put what I call a power strap on them. That was a bungee cord connected to the handle bar and the throttle lever directly. As in running it wide open, with the blade on first. On mowed weekly grass, they would costs us time per yard no doubt. Bags wouldn't fill all the way and such. Owner of that lawn crew I was on got rid of them in 2 days.

On this one, I would remove and boil clean the carb. Dump the fuel tank out. Decarbonize the cylinder and valves. Valve adjustment and cooling fin cleaning. Give it the best shot at reviving some hp.
Click to expand...
It does not smoke at all. Very strong leak down test. It could use a decarb. I see black junk on the piston head. A second carb clean may help some.


#16

S

slomo

nbpt100 said:
It does not smoke at all. Very strong leak down test. It could use a decarb. I see black junk on the piston head. A second carb clean may help some.
Click to expand...
That decarbonize trick, if you don't do it, chunks of really hard carbon will break off, get next to the piston and bore and gouge the snot out of it. This of course creates an oil burning engine. Get behind the valves too.


#17

N

nbpt100

Seafoam in gas.


#18

S

slomo

nbpt100 said:
Seafoam in gas.
Click to expand...
Doesn't decarbon a small engine. If it did I would love to have a case of it. You have to use a steel scraper and a lot of elbow juice to clean some of these carbon machines. Stuff laughs at carb cleaner.


#19

S

slomo

FWIW, just watched videos of new Honda HRX (200cc) and their commercial job HRC. All of them nearly die when the blades are turned on. Seen this for 40 plus years on Honda mowers.


#20

N

nbpt100

slomo said:
FWIW, just watched videos of new Honda HRX (200cc) and their commercial job HRC. All of them nearly die when the blades are turned on. Seen this for 40 plus years on Honda mowers.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that insight.
slomo said:
Doesn't decarbon a small engine. If it did I would love to have a case of it. You have to use a steel scraper and a lot of elbow juice to clean some of these carbon machines. Stuff laughs at carb cleaner.
Click to expand...
According to Project farm and Chris Fix Videos it does help. It will not do it 100% in one tankfull but it does have some impact after one tank. I am reluctant to remove the head as i do not have a new head gasket. I have reused old ones if it comes off clean with out any issues. But with my luck of late I will destroy it taking it off.


#21

S

slomo

nbpt100 said:
According to Project farm and Chris Fix Videos it does help. It will not do it 100% in one tankfull but it does have some impact after one tank
Click to expand...
Drive around and snag a push mower that is on someones curb. Run all the Seafoam you want in it. Pull the head. Take pictures of all the carbon that is still in there and behind both valves.

Bet you put seafoam in your cornflakes LOL. So $5.00 a gallon for gas. $8.75 for a tiny can of kerosene. Man you spend some cash on lawn mower fuel. (y)


#22

N

nbpt100

slomo said:
Drive around and snag a push mower that is on someones curb. Run all the Seafoam you want in it. Pull the head. Take pictures of all the carbon that is still in there and behind both valves.

Bet you put seafoam in your cornflakes LOL. So $5.00 a gallon for gas. $8.75 for a tiny can of kerosene. Man you spend some cash on lawn mower fuel. (y)
Click to expand...
I know your point for sure. But I would never eat corn flakes. That GMO corn is not going in my body.


#23

N

nbpt100

All I did was adjust the valve lash and change the oil. The heavy boging down is now pretty much gone. Once it is warms up for about a minute it will slightly bog down but a very normal amount. it runs good while the blade is engaged. However with the blade off at idle the engine tends to surge up and down. I do not know why. However that is not a big deal to me. If I could eliminate it easly I would . Not sure what I could practically do.


#24

B

bertsmobile1

nbpt100 said:
All I did was adjust the valve lash and change the oil. The heavy boging down is now pretty much gone. Once it is warms up for about a minute it will slightly bog down but a very normal amount. it runs good while the blade is engaged. However with the blade off at idle the engine tends to surge up and down. I do not know why. However that is not a big deal to me. If I could eliminate it easly I would . Not sure what I could practically do.
Click to expand...
There is an idle jet that hides under a screw that hides under the idle throttle stop screw
That will probably be partially clogged


#25

N

nbpt100

bertsmobile1 said:
There is an idle jet that hides under a screw that hides under the idle throttle stop screw
That will probably be partially clogged
Click to expand...
I know what you are refering to. Thanks, I will have to clean it out better.


#26

N

nbpt100

I reset the governor and adjusted the throttle cable and the problem went away.


Footer Links 1

Top