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I bought a new HRX today at HomeDepot and the guy said I need to use gas stabilizer due to ethanol additives. He also mentioned something else that I should use in the first tank. Ant idea what he was talking about and do I need stabilizer? Never used it on my 12 year old Honda.

Rouillier said:

I bought a new HRX today at HomeDepot and the guy said I need to use gas stabilizer due to ethanol additives. He also mentioned something else that I should use in the first tank. Ant idea what he was talking about and do I need stabilizer? Never used it on my 12 year old Honda.

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I, too, have a Honda HRX (2012 model) and also an older HRR. I don't use fuel stabilizer in mine, but that doesn't mean it is the right thing to do. All I can say is I have not had any trouble with mine. Robert@Honda will likely respond tomorrow to this; he should know the answer. So stay posted.

Also, I would suggest reading this.....it talks about the fuel recommendations a little bit: Honda Lawn Mowers - Fuel Recommendations. :smile:

I am experiencing cognitive dissonance with the thought of getting rid of my old Honda Master Series! It has been hard to get started and has had a little smoke when it first starts but I have loved it for 12 years. I was afraid it would cost too much to fix. I got a new HRX217HYA today at HD for $599 which I think is a good price.

Rouillier said:

I am experiencing cognitive dissonance with the thought of getting rid of my old Honda Master Series! It has been hard to get started and has had a little smoke when it first starts but I have loved it for 12 years. I was afraid it would cost too much to fix. I got a new HRX217HYA today at HD for $599 which I think is a good price.

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Yeah that is a good price! The MSRP on the Honda website is $800 and I think I got mine for $700 something. I love my Honda HRX217HYA! Way better than my 2006 HRR216TDA! You shouldn't be disappointed!

Is there a difference in a HRX217hya 2012 and 2013 model? I think this is a 2012 model since it was on sale. Never been run since oil still in sealed bag. Anything special I should do before running it the first time?

Rouillier said:

Is there a difference in a HRX217hya 2012 and 2013 model? I think this is a 2012 model since it was on sale. Never been run since oil still in sealed bag. Anything special I should do before running it the first time?

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I will start with "anything special I should do before running it the first time?". Again, Robert@Honda knows more than I do, but all I can say is I did not do anything special. But I will tell you one thing. The first time I tried to start my mower it wouldn't start. Myself and also the delivery-guy kept yanking on the cord, but it wouldn't start. We finally got it to start, and concluded it was because the mower was assembled only a few hours before I received it, so things needed to get working. After that it was fine and starts on the first pull every time. Now to your second question, about differences between 2012 and 2013 models. Read this thread by Robert.....it talks about the new Hondas: http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/honda-forum/12602-new-models-honda-2013-hondas.html. To my knowledge, there are no differences between the 2012 and 2013 HRX21HYA's. But there is a new model, the HRX217VLA. The HRR's are a different story, there were changes for them. They feature the new Clip Director.

What I have done having worked in motor cycle industry for a while and always working on mowers and doing lawn care is to fill up your gas can at the station ok. Then put either STAR TRON star bright or STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment (MUST BE ETHANOL TREATMENT NOT THE OLD ONE THATS RED cause it doesnt take care of ethanol problems) Put which ever you use In the gas can after you fill the gas can. Then when you put it in your mower it is treated then what you will do is before you put it away for the winter or even a week till you cut again is turn the fuel switch off and let it run the carb out of fuel. ( you will hear the idle go up and down then eventually it will shut off) That is the most simple method you can do without having problems. It doesnt take much to gum up a little carb on a mower. We saw this all the time on bikes especially since about 2007 on. The ethanol fuel just sucks and they keep pushing for E-15 then were all screwed because none of this stuff runs on E-15 only up to E10. Winter Time I run all my stuff Dry.

In my opinion the first thing to do is read the owners manual and follow those directions. Unless your salesman is also a warranty service rep, anything he tells you may void your warranty. He's there to sell product and won't help you if something goes wrong. Check with the Honda service people in you area on specific areas of concern. They know their units and can give you the best advice. This is one reason why I always recommend buying from a dealer, no matter the brand. I would not use any fuel additives in a new unit, unless you know that if something would go wrong, they would not void the warranty. One thing I would do is what we recommend to our customers, use non-ethanol fuel if at all possible. Attached I have included a website where it can be purchased in your state.

Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

Using a stabilizer will extend the storage time of fuel. That said, the fuel tank and carburetor of your new Honda mower are not a good place to store fuel. :thumbdown:

If you don't expect to use the mower for at least 30 days, drain the fuel from the tank (or let it run dry) and also the carburetor. Instructions are in your owner's manual.

You can use stabilizer to treat the fuel you may have in a fuel can, but if you expect it won't get used within 60 days, you should dump it into the tank of your vehicle.

Generally, the only trick to starting up a new mower (or one that's been drained of fuel) is to give the fuel a few seconds to drain from the tank down into the carburetor. Fill the tank with fresh fuel, turn the fuel valve to ON, then wait about 30 seconds. Be sure the choke is set to ON (closed) if your mower has one. Grab the recoil starter handle and pull it out gently until you feel resistance. This removes the slack from the cord and makes it less jerk/effort to start the engine. When the engine starts, slowly allow the cord to be pulled back, don't let it snap back to avoid damage.

Properly configured (choke, fuel, etc.) most Honda engines will start in 1-2 pulls. If not, recheck the choke, fuel valve, fuel supply, etc....they are almost always the reason the engine won't start right up.