You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Gas leaking into crankcase
#1
M
mollydodger
M
mollydodger
Hello. NUBE here. I have a 5HP Briggs engine on a Snapper rider. Model # 195707 Type #0133-01. I have a problem with the gas leaking though the carb (Walbro) into the crankcase when it is stored between cuttings. I pulled the carb to check the needle and seat. Both look OK but I am replacing them anyway. The float is all plastic and appears to be OK but it has NO level adjustment. As long as I have the carb apart, I will replace the float to but I would like to know if there is a replacement available that has a level adjustment. Also checked the bowl vent hole and it is clear. Finally, I plan on installing an inline shutoff just to be safe. Any and all help is appreciated!!! Thanks!!!
#2
L
logan01
L
logan01
Likely the needle. If you install a shut-off inline, Turn it off as you are enroute to store the mower after mowing so that it starves it for fuel and shuts it down. Is your needle metallic tipped or rubber?Hello. NUBE here. I have a 5HP Briggs engine on a Snapper rider. Model # 195707 Type #0133-01. I have a problem with the gas leaking though the carb (Walbro) into the crankcase when it is stored between cuttings. I pulled the carb to check the needle and seat. Both look OK but I am replacing them anyway. The float is all plastic and appears to be OK but it has NO level adjustment. As long as I have the carb apart, I will replace the float to but I would like to know if there is a replacement available that has a level adjustment. Also checked the bowl vent hole and it is clear. Finally, I plan on installing an inline shutoff just to be safe. Any and all help is appreciated!!! Thanks!!!
#3
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
No replacement float (that is adjustable) is available for your carb. No need to replace it. Replace the needle and seat and you should be good to go. Also, change the oil. Needle and seat number should be 398188. Here is the procedure I follow, do about a half dozen a week.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
#4
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
And afer following rivets instruction to the letter, take up Logans suggestion , spend $ 5 and fit a fuel tap.
Starving engines is a much better way to stop them for storage now days that we have to use he slop called unleaded, which is nothing like petrol.
Starving engines is a much better way to stop them for storage now days that we have to use he slop called unleaded, which is nothing like petrol.
#5
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Putting a shut off inline is just a bandaid. Those who feel this solves the problem, are kidding themselves. Forget toturn in off one time and you're back to square one.
#6
L
logan01
L
logan01
It's a very effective solution for those who either don't want to bother with the temporary remedy of parts replacement or don't have the knowledge, skills, and abilities to carry out the task.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
Actually it is belts AND braces if you read what I actually said.
Fix carb THEN add the tap.
Every repair that comes in goes out with a tap and I get endless thank yous.
makes changins filters & /or carb cleaning so easy and CLEAN.
no one likes getting covered with gas, even unleaded gas.
The few seconds of running dry actually cleans off the plug so you get better starts and without any fuel left in the bowl you don't get phase drop out or heavy water condensation in the float bowl.
B
bertsmobile1
Putting a shut off inline is just a bandaid. Those who feel this solves the problem, are kidding themselves. Forget toturn in off one time and you're back to square one.
Actually it is belts AND braces if you read what I actually said.
Fix carb THEN add the tap.
Every repair that comes in goes out with a tap and I get endless thank yous.
makes changins filters & /or carb cleaning so easy and CLEAN.
no one likes getting covered with gas, even unleaded gas.
The few seconds of running dry actually cleans off the plug so you get better starts and without any fuel left in the bowl you don't get phase drop out or heavy water condensation in the float bowl.
#8
T
Tinkerer200
An inline shutoff is NO bandage, it is an insurance policy. You are an experienced tech, how many engines have you seen ruined by gas contamination in the oil? An old engine is going to leak sooner or later. I have been working with small engines a couple of years, well about 65.
By the way, a 19 series engine is an 8 hp. Adjust float level by bending pivot arm to make float parallel with carb body when held upside down.
Walt Conner
T
Tinkerer200
Putting a shut off inline is just a bandaid. Those who feel this solves the problem, are kidding themselves. Forget toturn in off one time and you're back to square one.
An inline shutoff is NO bandage, it is an insurance policy. You are an experienced tech, how many engines have you seen ruined by gas contamination in the oil? An old engine is going to leak sooner or later. I have been working with small engines a couple of years, well about 65.
By the way, a 19 series engine is an 8 hp. Adjust float level by bending pivot arm to make float parallel with carb body when held upside down.
Walt Conner
#9
lugnut1
lugnut1
If you have a gravity feed tank (tank higher than carb inlet) you need to install a in-line shut off valve just as a precaution.
and it does make it easier when working on carb.
down side: you forget to use it.
(TO ERROR IS HUMAN):ashamed:
and it does make it easier when working on carb.
down side: you forget to use it.
(TO ERROR IS HUMAN):ashamed:
#10
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you do work on engines as a business, installing in-line shutoffs is a bandaid. Just once the customer has to forget to turn it off and he is back at your door, ripping you a new one for not fixing the problem. I clean and rebuild at least a half dozen carbs a week, using the procedure I posted, and have a less than 1% rework rework. If a new float needle and seat are installed correctly they will not leak. If you know carbs and understand how they work, you can adjust the Briggs plastic floats, but if you are not careful they will break. That is why I will not post how I do it. If you are in business, you have to do it right the first time. If you don't you won't be around long!!
#11
T
Tinkerer200
T
Tinkerer200
Anyone who refuses to install an inline fuel shut off because of a new float needle, seat, NEW CARB, whatever and use it is being foolish. I have been at this for about 65 years and well speak from experience. Call it a band-aid if you wish, I call it being foolish to not use an insurance device. The local salvage yard is full of engines whose owner or repair person thought they knew better. You think your repaired carb will never leak is your repair better than the carb was when put out new? Do the carbs put out new ever leak? IF they never leaked then there would be no point in putting out repairs. Any repair person should know there is a constant possibility of small foreign particles getting under the float needle. These problems are much more prevalent today because the EPA made the mgf,s do away with the weep hole originally put in specifically to prevent oil contamination.
Walt
Walt
#12
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
You can call me the village idiot if you like, but it will not change what I do or how I do it. 90% of the people don't use shutoffs that are factory installed, why would they start when they are added to the line. Have I had carbs leak after repair, yes. Do new carbs leak, yes. Will I install a shutoff as "insurance", no. I also have as many years in this profession as you and in my experience have learned that customers want their equipment to be repaired right the first time. If you have to tell them that to prevent the problem from occurring again, all they have to do is remember to shut off the fuel line when they shut off the engine. This will not give them confidence in your repair work and they will not be back. If they forget, another oil change and down time for their unit. You are correct that they won't need to repair the carb if they install and use a shut off.
#13
T
Tinkerer200
T
Tinkerer200
Learning to use an inline shutoff is as simple as learning to use seat belts, people understand well when you show them the results, explain why it happens, the removal of weep holes, the use of smaller floats in present carbs and ethanol fuel affects has nothing to do with a repair tech, as they will understand. Often a leak is simply the result of a small partial getting under the float needle NOT the need of a carb overhaul.
Walt Conner
Walt Conner