Fuel in Oil

[rancher_mac]

Your one picture is really dark and We cannot see what you are indicating that you see gas pooling in both cylinders????????????

Something to keep in mind on those engines is when they are not warmed up or hot and when you turn the key off the spark stops the governor goes wide open and the carb is dumping max gas into the intake manifold while the engine is coasting to as stop. If the engine is hot you will see gas vapor coming out of the carb throat. If the engine is cold you will see raw gas in the intake manifold below the carb because it's not hot enough to vaporize rapidly.
Some later model engines use a Anti Backfire Solenoid (ABS) on the bottom of the carb and it reduces the gas going into the manifold when the key is turned off.

Also you WILL FIND on some of the opposed twins that some engines ALWAYS require an immediate full choke for a quick start even when the engine is hot. Nothing is wrong, just the nature of the beast.

Do you have the Briggs service manual for that engine????
If you are going to keep that ENGINE you might want to eventually invest in a
Briggs Twin cylinder l-head service manual 02-271172 at about $30

Not to take anything away from this site, but here is a link to a site that has a really good small engine reference library for all kinds of small engine service manuals, but you have to be a member and post for awhile BEFORE YOU ARE ALLOWED TO VIEW AND DOWNLOAD SUCH.
Professional Power Equipment Technicians & Education Network (PPETEN) • Index page



With some searching few years ago I downloaded a freebie Service manual, BUT I also found a used manual on fleece bay at a reduced rate and just purchase such for the shop use.

Just a hint about static governor adjust. Ignore left/right/CW/CCW rotation of the shaft in the videos.
The governor shaft and lever is most generally turned/rotated in the same direction
that forces the throttle wide open when doing the static governor adjust.

Also on that engine the big screw that moves back and forth as you increase and decrease the throttle is the max RPM adjustment screw.
Sometimes this screw has to be adjusted to get the governor engine speed corrected at max throttle. (especially if the governor does not increase the engine speed enough when the engine is under a load mowing.
That bolt's nut that holds the governor arm clamp secured to the governor shaft coming out of the engine on those engines has to be tight. If you limp wrist the nut the lever will slip on the shaft and the governor will not work correctly AGAIN because the arm did not stay secured/locked to the shaft.
But be careful and not twist off the bolt or break the clamp. Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and a 6 point socket.

Leave the breather off the top of the carb push it outside and let it run at medium speed until it gets warmed up and do hot engine tests, killing and re-starting the engine checking for running rich, etc.
You are gaining ground for now, but sometimes Murphy will spring up again.

Them are good old engines when not worn out and only require little bit of TLC for long term use. You will find they are user friendly to work on when you get familiar with them.

That is a unusual exhaust on that one. They usually dump out and the muffler bolts in that square slot in front of the engine in the frame opening.
Just unbolt the muffler and it drops down out of the frame and leaves the two exhaust pipes bolted to the engine.
Also do not see a mower deck.

You will find that,
Patience is your friend.

Sounds good. I’ll be out of town but when I’m back I’ll do those things you mentioned. It is actually a different muffler on it, but the youtube video in the video about the governor is an instructional one I found. It’s hard to come by the stock muffler that fits the MTD frame at a reasonable price so I was able to use a muffler from a zero turn instead. Saved myself $100 or so and my neighbor is welding the pipes for me. Also, I actually do have that repair manual. Been referring to it a lot as I’ve been trouble shooting. Might be getting some more needle valves as I’ve polished seats but still have leaks. I’m sure it will be solved here at some point…

What’s your opinion on installing a fuel shutoff solenoid? I see a few available that fit this carb. I know they can be a pain to some people but it would at least cut off flow from the main jet when engine is shut off.

 

[Forest#2]

I've never seen a Anti -After fire solenoid (12v) for those old Briggs twins carbs.

My opinion. They are not needed on that engine.
I would not use one if they were available, not needed.

Some people are not aware that a afterfire solenoid does not turn off the fuel supply to the carb. It only reduces the fuel flow to the High speed portion of the carb. If needle seat is leaking during storage or otherwise the carb/engine still floods. Carb bowl still floods and fuel will go out the idling jet area and/or out the carb bowl vent portion.
Lots of info on line about SMALL engine Afterfire solenoids.
Here is one link about such used on Briggs engines/Carbs.

Small Engines - » The Anti-Afterfire Solenoid

www.small-engines.com

Most generally antifire is not needed on several other engines if the engine is allowed to just idle for awhile before the key is turned off, instead of turning the key off at high rpms. The backfire most generally is raw fuel being dumped into a hot muffler due to what I mentioned earlier due to the governor opening the carb throttle wide open as the engine is coasting down (key OFF) and sucking gas and no ignition spark from the spark plug. To me the antiafter fire seems to be another Al Gore enviromental thing.
AND
It's also not normal for me to have leaking needle/seat issues (constant reoccuring problems) with those carbs that have the front fuel pump,
Only time I had reoccuring leaking carb needle/seat issues was due to a fuel tanks that old gas had previously gone bad inside the tank and a sticky substance was coming from the gas tank that new gas was thinning and carrying through the fuel filter to the carb. The sticky stuff in the tank was being broken down by the new gas and was thin enough it would get to the carb needle/seat and would also eventually clog a clear see-thru fuel filter as a tacky substance. (I had to completely remove the tank for a good cleaning)

I've also never seen those type carb/fuel pumps leak enough gas during storage to contaminate the crankcase oil with gas during storage. Not saying it cannot happen but not likely.

We do realize the service manual is good, but their are lots of need info not in the service manual or it's on a hidden page.

 

[volt]

It appears I’m getting fuel in my oil. I thought maybe it was a carb so I replaced and I still have the oil level increasing after a mow. I just checked compression and one cylinder is 95psi and the other is 100psi. Any thoughts as to what the cause might be? it is a twin opposed Briggs 42a707-2238-e1.
I should add that both cylinders are running. New spark plugs this season and the both look great when removed.

I also checked my Tecumseh 195ea and it had 90psi. Is that low enough to work on the valves?

Had same problem last year. Fuel is leaking into oil. The first sign something is not right is rope cannot be pulled to start engine. Had to have it repaired. They removed motor and did there thing. Now it runs fine. Cannot tell cost because they did other things while it was there.
Hope this helps.

 

[slomo]

What’s your opinion on installing a fuel shutoff solenoid?

Those just stop after-fires out of the muffler.

Now if you want a better option, install an inline shut off valve. Totally stops flow to carb when not using. No chance of the carb needle filling up the cylinder.

 

[rancher_mac]

Final update...hopefully.

I was finally able to get a carb to hold pressure. Installed a new needle valve, still had a leak. Tried a pump from a different carb, didn't work...tried from another and that worked. Installed new governor control bracket which was a lot more tight. Took off the fuel tank, pressure washed it, used delphi tank cleaner and let it dry out afterward. Cleaned out the fuel can and got new gas. New hose and new filter again. Started her up and she runs perfectly. Don't know which was the fix, but since the exhaust is still loud I only have few times of the day I'm able to run it. Did everything else when I could find the time. After running for 5 minutes I turned it off and no fuel under the carb. It seems all is well again. Big thanks to all you guys for all your help and expertise. You guys helped me solve work through this and get it back to great condition. Thank you!

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Forest#2]

Sounds good.

see you made lots of changes. Correct exhaust with heat shield between the carb and muffler. You say you changed the throttle/governor plate.
I've seen different colored gov springs on those and sometimes when changing them or finding one gone when working on old engines I just throwed on a governor spring, not knowing what color it should be and had to make a slight bend adjust to the metal governor arm behind the throttle plate to get a smooth governor control.

Keep a heads up on them 3 screws that holds the air filter metal pan to the top of the carb. I put green locktite on mine to keep them from coming loose and going into the carb throat. I also put the carb on full choke when removing/installing them to keep one from falling into the carb throat.

 

[slomo]

Cleaned out the fuel can

Another step we all could follow. I keep mine in the garage but still can get filthy inside.

Glad to hear she is a runner.

 

[rancher_mac]

Another step we all could follow. I keep mine in the garage but still can get filthy inside.

Glad to hear she is a runner.

Crazy thing is the can was pretty slimy inside like Forest mentioned could happen. It’s never seen ethanol, so I’m guessing I got old gas last time around. I know one place I won’t be getting gas from anymore.

 

[rancher_mac]

Sounds good.

see you made lots of changes. Correct exhaust with heat shield between the carb and muffler. You say you changed the throttle/governor plate.
I've seen different colored gov springs on those and sometimes when changing them or finding one gone when working on old engines I just throwed on a governor spring, not knowing what color it should be and had to make a slight bend adjust to the metal governor arm behind the throttle plate to get a smooth governor control.

Keep a heads up on them 3 screws that holds the air filter metal pan to the top of the carb. I put green locktite on mine to keep them from coming loose and going into the carb throat. I also put the carb on full choke when removing/installing them to keep one from falling into the carb throat.

Good to know. I’m going to verify later but I have full throttle set at 3,300rpm right now. Set the screw to about the same length as the previous and fortunately it matched right up. Good to know about those top screws, I’ll be putting some loctite on those for sure.

 

[Forest#2]

Good to know. I’m going to verify later but I have full throttle set at 3,300rpm right now. Set the screw to about the same length as the previous and fortunately it matched right up. Good to know about those top screws, I’ll be putting some loctite on those for sure.

I’ll be putting some loctite on those for sure.

Red locktite is a big NO NO. red IS THE PERMANENT ONE.

Use green or blue and strange that it's so expensive now days.

You just need enough to keep the screw from backing out own it's own due to the running engine vib's loosening the screw.
If a screw can be backed out with finger pressure once it's loosed it will back out on it own and fall into the carb throat then into the piston/head area eventually.

I've seen it happen MAINLY DUE TO SOMEONE LIMP WRISTING WHEN TIGHTENING AND THEY WILL STRIP EASY ALSO GOING INTO THE MAGNESUM CARB, SO lOCKTITE WORKS GOOD FOR SECURING THEM SCREWS.

No need in using small lock washers just get them screws little bit secure.