Frustrated with a Cub LT 1018 No Start problem

sgkent said:
what brand spark plug and where did you buy them from? Was it a local auto parts store, or online?

Have you checked compression on all cylinders?
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Don't know, didn't look, but this unit was serviced by the local cub dealership last year...plugs look pretty fresh. Did not check compression but turning the flywheel when I lashed the valves to bring the cylinder head to TDC minus .25 inch seemed to me the resistance seemed appropriate even though it's not the same as when fuel is ignited at the top of the Cylinder head. Besides that I don't have a Compression testing unit nor do I want to buy one. Remember this thing was running and mowing fine until the steering collum bushing broke and I parked it. Took a week or so to get the part and put it in and then it wouldn't start. Putting the steering bushing in did not involve getting into much except pulling the steering collum up, sliding in the bushing and buttoning it up. Thus when it wouldn't start came the cascade of following the power to the engine and troubleshooting everything I could think of.
 
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Tiger Small Engine said:
Stop. Take some time, do some reading online, think about it. You are jumping from one thing to the next. Ask yourself, what changed from the time the engine was running, until now?
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Good advice! Before I started the things I did I followed that line of thinking...it's good advice no matter what the problem.
 
I reviewed the posts and don't see if you checked spark. Pull plug, ground it, and crank the motor. Do it in the shade. Make sure you do whatever needs to be done to satisfy safety switches. Seat switch, neutral, put brake on, etc.
 
Hello R.,

I commend you on your efforts and your tenacity to stick with it and see it through.

Basically, this mower shut down and has not started and ran since?

Currently, it does crank well after a new starter was installed?

Initially, two things come to mind.... First is the after-fire solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. They are bad about the harness connector pins wearing and losing contact. Second is the possibility of debris piled up in the carburetor inlet to the float needle and seat. Stuff does get by these fuel filters and collect t the carburetor inlet.

Additional thoughts:

Had you just refilled from a fuel can that has been sitting open in the weather or in the back of a pickup truck for weeks? Being that the plugs seem wet, but clean.... is there a chance there is water in the fuel tank?

You have confirmed compression from what I have read. You need to verify fuel quality by taking a very small sample and go to a clear area to see if you can light it with a kitchen match. If it lights immediately, it is reasonable to say the fuel is good.

Next on the list is spark, you need an adjustable air gap spark tester and see if it will jump a blue spark 1/4 of an inch between the gap. The simple plug in neon "Christmas light" spark testers will lie to you if the coil is failing, they do not have the needed air gap.
 
No where have I read that you have gotten spark, unless I missed it. If no spark THRU the spark plug, then disconnect the kill wire and see if it returns. If so, you have a switch\wiring issue. If not, replace coil. I'd replace the plug too.
 
Rookiesmom said:
Fellas help a gal out. Y'all are going to laugh at me. I borrowed my neighbors LT1018 to mow my grass it was a little hard to start but would eventually do so. While mowing the steering bushing broke, from age mostly the engine was running fine. I replaced the bushing and could not get it to start. I checked the voltage on the battery which required charging from about 11.7 volts to 12.3 volts ..no problem doing that. Still would not start so I checked the voltage coming out of the starter solenoid, confirmed that when the key was turned the solenoid was getting power ......no joy ..power went in but solenoid was dead, fuse was good...replaced the soleinoid..confirmed 12 volts out of the hot wire to the starter and it was fine. Still no start. Neighbor bought a new starter and because of the way the starter bolts up to the engine housing (and the fact that I didn't have long torx tools) I took off the flywheel.when the flywheel was pulled the timing key fell out sheared. Replaced the timing key. Note that the timing key, though sheared was still in line with the key way when I pulled it so timing should have been fine. I replaced the starter but though now the engine turned rapidly all I could get out of it was a few weak cough's of trying to run for about 5 seconds then...nothing. Gaps on the coils were in spec. Noticed the breather tube was old and cracked. replaced that. Used starting fluid down the intake and nothing, no start. Went to AI GROK and it suggested checking the valve lash. Looked up the specs and reset the valve lash for both cylinders. Yes I have and used feeler gauges. Both intake and exhaust tolerneces were a little loose. Had high hopes that would do it but NOOOO it still would not start. I took the carberator off and checked the needle valve, used carb cleaner on the emulsion tube and used a maybe 24 gage wire to ream said emulsion tubes, cleaned the bowl and checked to make sure the fuel solenoid was working (it was). Put it all back together and though turning beautifully, it would not start. So, though rapidly losing my hair and mind, I put a new fuel filter on it and replaced a couple of 21 year old fuel lines. Cleaned the fuel pump and the screen on the back side of it. The vaccum tube from the valve cover to the fuel pump was fine...no rot or tears, no obstructions. Checked the fuel cap and made sure the vent holes were still good/present. Pulled the plugs after turning it and they were slightly wet so it was getting fuel. I'm Stuck in quicksand here, I know enough about these small engine to do what I have done but not enough to know what else to do or where I have gone wrong. The engine is a B&S Model 40H777, built about 2004 0r 2005. Any suggestions?
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You've done a lot of checking, but I don't see where you've tried a jump-starter on the battery, which would be simple compared to all the other measures you've taken. I've seen some strange problems from weak batteries, showing voltage but not weren't strong enough to provide the strong spark others reference. Doesn't take much time and costs minimal, if anything--worth a try.
 
Rookiesmom said:
Fellas help a gal out. Y'all are going to laugh at me. I borrowed my neighbors LT1018 to mow my grass it was a little hard to start but would eventually do so. While mowing the steering bushing broke, from age mostly the engine was running fine. I replaced the bushing and could not get it to start. I checked the voltage on the battery which required charging from about 11.7 volts to 12.3 volts ..no problem doing that. Still would not start so I checked the voltage coming out of the starter solenoid, confirmed that when the key was turned the solenoid was getting power ......no joy ..power went in but solenoid was dead, fuse was good...replaced the soleinoid..confirmed 12 volts out of the hot wire to the starter and it was fine. Still no start. Neighbor bought a new starter and because of the way the starter bolts up to the engine housing (and the fact that I didn't have long torx tools) I took off the flywheel.when the flywheel was pulled the timing key fell out sheared. Replaced the timing key. Note that the timing key, though sheared was still in line with the key way when I pulled it so timing should have been fine. I replaced the starter but though now the engine turned rapidly all I could get out of it was a few weak cough's of trying to run for about 5 seconds then...nothing. Gaps on the coils were in spec. Noticed the breather tube was old and cracked. replaced that. Used starting fluid down the intake and nothing, no start. Went to AI GROK and it suggested checking the valve lash. Looked up the specs and reset the valve lash for both cylinders. Yes I have and used feeler gauges. Both intake and exhaust tolerneces were a little loose. Had high hopes that would do it but NOOOO it still would not start. I took the carberator off and checked the needle valve, used carb cleaner on the emulsion tube and used a maybe 24 gage wire to ream said emulsion tubes, cleaned the bowl and checked to make sure the fuel solenoid was working (it was). Put it all back together and though turning beautifully, it would not start. So, though rapidly losing my hair and mind, I put a new fuel filter on it and replaced a couple of 21 year old fuel lines. Cleaned the fuel pump and the screen on the back side of it. The vaccum tube from the valve cover to the fuel pump was fine...no rot or tears, no obstructions. Checked the fuel cap and made sure the vent holes were still good/present. Pulled the plugs after turning it and they were slightly wet so it was getting fuel. I'm Stuck in quicksand here, I know enough about these small engine to do what I have done but not enough to know what else to do or where I have gone wrong. The engine is a B&S Model 40H777, built about 2004 0r 2005. Any suggestions?
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Freddie21 said:
No where have I read that you have gotten spark, unless I missed it. If no spark THRU the spark plug, then disconnect the kill wire and see if it returns. If so, you have a switch\wiring issue. If not, replace coil. I'd replace the plug too.
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Like what was already said since it will not run on starting fluid does it have a strong spark?
 
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