Export thread

I have a YTH 2448 T riding mower that I was given because the front wheels were not aligned. I have already replaced the wheel bushings which helped. The plate the drag link attaches to for the right side is bent and the weld is also broken. I am replacing it but my question is there are plastic bushings where the spindle goes through the axle that are not showing on the parts diagram I have. Does anyone know the part number I need to buy to replace these bushings?

Thanks

Funny, but they don't show up on the drawings for the YTH22V46 either. But a peek at older models does. I have a 2012 model, and even that far back, the bushings were not shown on the drawings.

Of note, I've found some very similar sized bronze bushings that I plan on doing a mod with. I'll let you know how it works.

No they are listed as they want you to buy a new front axle.

Buy some C93200 bronze bushings (bearings) 3/4" ID X 15/16" OD X 1" then for the Husqvarna cast iron front axle machine OD to .910 (.911), Ream ID to .753 (.754). It will take four of these modified bushings (bearings) to rebuild both sides. If not present drill and install two grease zerks and grease the assembly after the axle is fully reassemble.

StarTech said:

No they are listed as they want you to buy a new front axle.

Buy some C93200 bronze bushings (bearings) 3/4" ID X 15/16" OD X 1" then for the Husqvarna cast iron front axle machine OD to .910 (.911), Ream ID to .753 (.754). It will take four of these modified bushings (bearings) to rebuild both sides. If not present drill and install two grease zerks and grease the assembly after the axle is fully reassemble.

Click to expand...

I found some that are actually already .752 ID, and .908 OD (barrel) with a 1.125 flange on them so that the thrust washers will also be on bronze. It should take up a little of the axial slop in the spindle as well. I don't have a lathe, so I'm going to have to be dependent on shelf items, which also makes a mod for the average shade tree lawn mower mechanic easier to do. I'm trying to avoid tools that the average Joe doesn't have or can't easily get without it costing more than a new mower. Even if the bronze bushings turn in the axle, I don't really care, considering what the plastic ones look like. They're impregnated bushings and I'm gonna pump 'em full of EP Moly grease that I bought for my bigger tractor after assembly to slow down the wear. I'm just going to have to have a maintenance day for greasing tractors. There is definitely some wear on the cast iron. My objective is to improve, not try to make it new again. New was obviously deficient in design, and I hope the bronze will hold the spindle shaft well enough without crumbling. Zerks are already in place. Gonna put a shot of grease through them to clean out any abrasive debris, use solvent to clean the tubes, then maybe a brake cylinder hone to shine them up a bit before reassembly. I have a hone small enough to go in the rear wheel cylinders of a VW, so I should be able to polish up the spindle guide just fine..

What I was spec'g was a press fit which is what I did on the last customer's rider.

A lathe is something I going need to get when a my machinist retires. I kinda wanting one that also does milling.

StarTech said:

What I was spec'g was a press fit which is what I did on the last customer's rider.

A lathe is something I going need to get when a my machinist retires. I kinda wanting one that also does milling.

Click to expand...

Yet to see a mill drill that is worth shed space
All of them have very coarse threads on the lead screw and even coarser on the cross slide which makes them fairly useless as a lathe
BEcause you are milling onto the cross slide not a solid plate you loose the precision of even the cheapest nasty stand alone mill.
The landlord has one and the only thing we use it for is drilling holes or machining flats across round stock and threading rods using a tailstock die.
For home use I would be looking at an old tool makers lathe because even worn out they have better precision than most new lathes and if they come fully geared then you can cut any thread .
Down side is they have 1/2 million oiling points and the very fine pitch threads on the saddle slides means your arm can wear out.
The one I used to use had a cross slide that travelled 0.00005" per revolution , a vernier on the cross slide so you could set angles to 0.01 degrees .

That is why I don't have a lathe now is that most USA units can't even do decent Metric threads which half my machine that has to done. Just lucky the the machinist work a company that does a lot Space X . work. Some of the tools I am designing and having made does require flats cut. If I just find something that can do the standard Metric thread would be a big plus.

I have a little 6" Atlas lathe. Most machinists would laugh at it and probably me too. I have made a bunch of stuff but I suck at cutting threads. The hardest thing i ever made was turning a set of wedding bands out of a piece of titanium. That stuff was tough!

I got a 4" hobby lathe made in Tiawan from a local tool company & sold under their own brands , Hafco .
It is good enough for most common job I do which is turning up bushes for idler spindles , making spacers and boring out washers ,
Then there is a 10" Hercus, that is used for threadding as it came with a full set of gears for both metric & imperial threads including BA & CEI of which I make a lot.
The landllord has a mill / drill which as previously mentioned was not worth the effort of buying.
It is set up with collets because the chuck was useless and a tail stock die holder
It is really convienant for threadding long rods because it starts the thread dead true to the shaft
He also has a 18" ( swing m 26' dia ) Servco gap bed lathe.
It will be used for grinding motorcycle brake drums because we will be able to mount the entire wheel on the face plate & grind the drums still laced up to the rim.
Apart from that there is a shaper used for repairing splines, particularly on tractor drive shafts
A 1913 Addcock Shippley universal mill which will be used for boring motorcycle cylinders & if I still do mowers , mower blocks.
Down side is it came from a steam workshop & is fitted with a 100 Hp electric motor and while the Hp is good to have we worked out it will cost $ 45 /hr to run.
Power fed on all 3 axies & powered rotating table , should be fun when we get it wired in.

HE also has a small mill up in his workshop that we are really using to develop our machining skills on.

I had the chance to get a Bridgeport mill for free. Only a couple problems. No place to put it. No way to pick it up and move it. 3 phase motor and no tooling. Used to know a shop that would do one off custom work at an hourly rate but they are so busy they don't take in custom work. I used to get custom bronze bushings made fairly cheap but not now. I could make them on my little lathe probably but at my hourly rate would be too expensive for most customers unless i find stock with the right ID and just need to turn the OD.