I have a intermittent starting issue with my freedom z. I bought the mower in 2012 new. Since after the first or second year of use I'll have a starting issue once or twice a year. I think last year it did it to me once all year, I finished mowing, shut it down to clean it up, hopped back on 1/2 hour later, it wouldn't start. Usually wait a few minutes and it'll start and be fine. Last year I thought it might be the brake safety switch because I noticed it would start with the parking brake set or off. I replaced the switch and it still does this. When you turn the key, it does nothing. Anyway after the first mowing this season it did it again! Hoping you guys can give me some advise, it sure would be greatly appreciated!
Every switch on a Scag Freedom Z is involved in the engine starting/cranking circuit.
The seat, L/H and R/H neutral and the brake interlock switches are two switches in one housing.
Check out the wiring diagram, follow the green wire from the starter solenoid all the way back to the key switch.
I have a 4 year old Turf Tiger and it also wants to take a break once in a while. This is intermittent and completely random. I've read enough of these threads about Scag electrical issues until I've just decided that they are like English sports cars from the 1970's and 80's. The electrical circuits do what they want to.
One thing that did thin out the occurrences of not starting was to completely short circuit the seat safety switch (I heard you gasp, Mackie) However that's one little bugaboo I don't have to worry about when it decides to "take a break".
I don't even gasp when someone who had bypassed a safety switch and injured themselves or another.
You could actually replace the seat switch. Scag positioned them on the rear crossbar, they get dirt in them and fail. Suspension seat models have the switch mounted in the seat bottom and are more protected.
Frequently a seat switch failure precedes the failure of the cranking relay.
#7
ILENGINE
Scag is one a select few that require the seat switch to be activated for starting. There are a few Murray around that would crank but not fire if you weren't on the seat.
Recently serviced several Kubotas, Hustlers, one Exmark, my own Hustler X-ONE, Scag Tiger Cub and Ingersoll 4018 GT all of which have seat switches. Only the GT will start without actuating the seat switch. The GT will shut down if the PTO switch is on and the operator leaves the seat.
My 1993 Excel 260K had relays and a seat switch which became problematic over the years. This was an odd machine as it had two mechanical clutches, one for the hydraulic drive and the other for the mower deck. The deck hung from the frame with straps and had a crank winch to raise or lower the deck. but it was a trooper in the cemetery for 2,000 hours with a 60" rear discharge deck. The Kohler Magnum 20V gave up the ghost in 2012 and the Hustler X-ONE replaced it.
I have only dealt with commercial machines in recent years and not being a dealer I have been able to decide which type of machines that I would service. I did mobile service for 6 different cemeteries, many different machine brands and models with the objective of training their folk to be able to perform lower and mid level maintenance on their own. Along with this I had my own lawn care customers, so I was a fairly busy dude. Last fall I gave up all of this as it was getting to be too much for me.
My real passion is Older Case and Ingersoll garden tractors, you know the ones with the "big" rear tires!!! I recently put a lot of time into a friends 1986 Ingersoll 448/Onan B48M. I will get a few more Case/Ingersoll mechanical restorations in this season, but I wrap things up when cold weather comes as heating my shop is expensive and the incoming cash flow isn't what it used to be plus I'm in my 70s!!! Time for them young 60 year olds to get with the program!!!LOL:laughing::biggrin::smile:
#9
ILENGINE
Sounds like the butt to seat for start is common on the commercial mowers.
#10
55TBird
I'm new to Scag but not to starting issues. I had a Cub Cadet Commercial Tank for 13 years and had many recurring issues. The small wires on the starter solenoid were the most common culprit. Last year I basically had to jump it every time, but putting a new battery didn't help. As soon as I could afford the mower I wanted I trader that SOB in.
British cars? My brother had an Austin Healey Sprite. The way I started it was to push it myself, hop over the door (convertible) and pop the clutch. I got to where I just did it without trying the ignition cause it would NEVER start.
Only car worse than that was a FIAT I bought back in college. Starting chances were 50/50 at best. After graduating I was going to a job interview when it broke down on a major highway in winter. I had to walk in a suit with cars spraying me with slush. My blood pressure is going up thinking about it.
I notice the same problem with my Freedom Z (2007). Every once in a while lately I don’t get rotation when I turn the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch on a whim. Right after bolting the dash board back in, my first crank was a fail. Turned the key again and kicked right off. The switches seem to be fine (left and right drive, clutch, seat). I changed the starter solenoid with a newer beefier unit two years ago but I think that may be the culprit. Could be high resistance on one of the control circuits. Going to clean them today.
Also, off topic slightly but, what after market suspension seat fits the 11X11 inch bolt pattern on the Freedom Z?
