Free pickup find at curb—gotta get it going!

[Gocanada]

Hi,
I always wanted a power rake, last fall there was a free giveaway day on my street and I was fortunate to be able to walk this thing home.


Today was first chance I had to take close look at it. Recoil spring needed some attention but got that straightened out. Changed the oil. There is spark and it fires when I drop some gas in the cylinder, but isn’t getting fuel (carb issue).

I cleaned the gas tank and sprayed carb cleaner in the carb, (removed it) but I know it needs a bit more attention than that.

I kinda just wanted to get a feel for how it all goes together.

Where should I be looking first? I hear there are is a diaphragm kind of thing, and I’m wondering about the tall stem like intakes that reach into the tank. Are there good ways to test if the carb is clear/working while it is still removed?

Any advice would be appreciated!! (Ps, I also have the belt guard, just off in photos. Gotta get a new belt.

 

[upupandaway]

I would check\replace the diaphragm first. If the gas doesn't smell funky, that would likely get it running.

The diaphragm is the 4 screw plate above the tank on the side of the muffler. When I get these, usually it IS the diaphragm that is no longer flexible. Heads up when u remove the diaphragm as a spring and spring retainer?!?! pops out.

 

[slomo]

1. On those engines which are great BTW, the tank must be spotless. As in brand new looking.
2.Briggs made a screen sock type filter that went over the main jet tunnel. I would find one and install it. It's a super fine window screen type filter. Not all carbs had those.
3.Oil level should basically be flowing out of the threads on flat ground.
4.Be careful with the air vane governor and other parts. Most of those parts are no longer available.
5.To fix the recoil spring, remove it and wipe with an oily red shop rag. Not a lot of oil is needed. You need to wipe down both sides of the spring with a small bit of oil. Don't spray it down either with anything. Just a thin film is all you need from an oily rag. Any more and you are attracting grit and grime wearing parts out.
6.Get a Briggs carb kit. Strip the carb all apart. I would boil it for 30 minutes in Dawn water. Spray out with carb cleaner. Then hit it with compressed air. Many carb cleaning videos online. Taryl and Donnyboy73 are preferred. That will get you you started for now.

 

[slomo]

7.Clean the block and cooling fins. Real easy on that engine.
8. Valve inspection/adjustment might not be a bad idea.
9.Remove the welch plugs on the carb to get behind them and clean it out.

 

[Gocanada]

What can I say other than WOW! And THANK YOU all for the excellent advice. What a great forum!
That screen sock suggestion for the main jet tunnel sounds like a very good one.

I’m no expert in these old engines, that’s for sure, but I like to learn and try to figure them out.

What would you say is best way to clean the gas tank? I tried carb cleaner and handful of nuts/washers, but still looks rough inside. I’ve heard of toilet bowl cleaner, vinegar, or cola—I’m thinking I’ll try vinegar first.

Just something rewarding about working on these old engines/machines.

 

[slomo]

Here's a small pic of the main jet filter I was talking about. They do not come on every pulsa jet carb. I helps keep trash from getting into the carb. If you can find one, get it.

Blue arrow that says main jet assembly below.

need help cleaning this carburetor

hi everyone i have a polutan pro PR550N22SH with a briggs and stratton engine. i have replaced the spark plug and put oil in it and it ran for about 3 hours and just stopped. after doing some searching it seems like i need to clean my carburetor. the problem is i don't have a carburetor bowl and...

www.lawnmowerforum.com

I posted on here a while ago about this filter. Might search my posts about these carbs.

 

[slomo]

What would you say is best way to clean the gas tank?

If this is something you are keeping and want it tip top shape, I would see if you could have it media blasted inside. Next just nuts and bolts as you did with Diesel. There are several motorcycle gas tank fixes out there. One uses and acid then neutralizes. Let that dry then pour in Kreem sealant. They work good if you do the prep work.

If the tank is in bad shape, one could weld on a new bottom piece of steel.

 

[bodean]

If this is something you are keeping and want it tip top shape, I would see if you could have it media blasted inside. Next just nuts and bolts as you did with Diesel. There are several motorcycle gas tank fixes out there. One uses and acid then neutralizes. Let that dry then pour in Kreem sealant. They work good if you do the prep work.

If the tank is in bad shape, one could weld on a new bottom piece of steel.

If you are talking about removing flash rust from inside the tank, plug all holes except the one for the filler cap. Fill completely with vinegar and let sit overnight. Drain out the next morning and add about a pound of copper coated steel BB’s along with diesel fuel or mineral spirits. Close the cap and gently shake in all directions. Drain and remove the BB’s. If you have a few that are hard to get out, use a magnetic pick up tool to remove them. Flush out again with diesel fuel or mineral spirits until it comes out clean. The copper coated steal BB’s aren’t as aggressive as rocks or bolts and nuts, are less likely to cause a spark, and will be less likely to wear a hole in the thin metal. They are cleaner than rocks as well.

 

[Gocanada]

Ok, time for an update. Cleaned the tank , picked up new diaphragm and gaskets. Cleaned out what I thought was every passage on the carb...STILL NO FUEL! It’ll run for a second on starter spray, and sounds good, but that’s it .HELP! I really want to get this thing running.

 

[Gocanada]

Ok, dig into this a bit more ..appears the brass pickup tube is split top to bottom (unless supposed to be like that, but I doubt it).