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This is just to inform about a Kawasaki engine problem I fixed to help others. I bought a Gravely 52hd back in 2013, had the Kawasaki FR691V and smoked from day one at startup. Took it back to the dealer under warranty at the time, and they could not find a issue with it said I would have to call Kawasaki about the engine. Called Kawasaki and told them about the issue I was having and said that was "Normal". Well its not normal for blue cloud of smoke at startup almost every time. So Kawasaki offered no solutions for the issue. So I used the lawn mower for the next 7 years keeping an eye on the oil level, which it used very little but would drop from the full mark. So last year (2020) the problem finally showed its head. I was mowing and the engine just stopped. Had to pull the fuel line off to get it to crank back up. It started and I finished mowing my lawn. Put the lawn mower up after mowing and started to troubleshoot the issue. Pulled the air filter tube off the carburetor and noticed a pool of fuel sitting at the 90 degree bend in the intake just before the carb. Cleaned the fuel out of the 90 and tried to start the engine back up. Raw fuel started coming out the exhaust. Pulled the float bowl off the carb, then pulled the float and needle. The needle was the 2 piece needle with rubber on the end. The rubber was cracked and broke. So I ordered a new needle and gasket set for the bowl. When the new parts came in I noticed that the needle was a 1 piece metal without the rubber (guess Kawasaki knew this was a issue and changed it, but didn't tell owners about it, what else is new.) Anyway, put the new parts in the carburetor, and engine did not smoke at startup even after sitting for 2 months. So the conclusion is if you have this model engine of this same year and it smokes at startup, this is the issue. The giveaway is the fuel sitting in the intake with the engine not running, which should be dry as it is now with the new parts. I read all the forums and could not find this issue for smoke at startup.

Are you sure wasn't one the tip rubber is silvered? The last 16030-7003 was rubber tipped just just coated with a silver substance that matched the rest of the needle valve.

That is the part number I replaced with. Looked like it was solid, did not know they coated rubber with silver substance.

I kind of think if it blew smoke on start up it would be black from the extra fuel not blue...

Kind of what I would have thought that would happen, but it was blue, and magically it does not smoke anymore just from changing the float needle.

If I remember correctly most Kawaski dealers was told recommend 20W50 oil in these engines. I do know I install 15w50 Synthetic Kawasaki oil / zinc additive. Some of Kohler engines also were bad to smoke at start-up but use only a small amount oil too.

I used the recommended oil (20W50). My thought is that the old style float needle was letting excessive fuel into the engine at some point while it was sitting up or could have been when the engine was shut down and caused the pool of fuel in the intake. May have been enough fuel to mix with whatever oil was coming from breather tube, just me speculating. All I know is now I used the mower 2 times weeks apart since I changed the float needle and no smoke at all at startup. The intake is dry also and was wet before. The oil has not been changed yet. The engine has never not smoked at startup since I bought it new in 2013.

dpoole1375 said:

Kind of what I would have thought that would happen, but it was blue, and magically it does not smoke anymore just from changing the float needle.

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You had oil dilution from failed leaky float diluting the oil with gas and if the plug is down hill or near level when over full, eventually the oil level being a bit above the ring level in the engine, it will bypass the rings and add fluid to the cylinder on start up and smoke blue for a while. repairing the float solved tthe issue.

Thanks for 411. mine is a 2014, I bought new. No issues like that, but good to know these things.
I never went to the 20w-50, I switched from 30w, to 15w-40 Rotella T4.

I have a 691 on a Toro zero turn, have been disappointed at having to adjust the rattling valve rockers every 80 hours

Interesting, Service manual states every 300 hours.

Mine( 651 on Toro) I have adjusted once, but only because one rocker had a light tick. That was at 75 hours. Been fine since.

Are you getting them locked down good ?

7394 said:

Interesting, Service manual states every 300 hours.

Mine( 651 on Toro) I have adjusted once, but only because one rocker had a light tick. That was at 75 hours. Been fine since.

Are you getting them locked down good ?

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The OP probably been guessing at the torque spec of 97 in-lbs.

The 300 hour adjustment is a recommendation. Using automotive oil, that does not contain a sufficient amount of zinc can cause premature wear to all metal to metal contact parts.

txmowman said:

The 300 hour adjustment is a recommendation. Using automotive oil, that does not contain a sufficient amount of zinc can cause premature wear to all metal to metal contact parts.

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I'm aware 300 hours is a recommendation, + I have NEVER used auto oil in my Kawasaki. Oil I use has 1,200ppm of zinc in it.
And exceeds JASO specs ..

7394 said:

Interesting, Service manual states every 300 hours.

Mine( 651 on Toro) I have adjusted once, but only because one rocker had a light tick. That was at 75 hours. Been fine since.

Are you getting them locked down good ?

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Tight as a fishes...., they are just wearing, can't
unhear rattling. Only have 190 or so hours, started ticking at ~50, 130, too noisy at 80 & 160 to leave. You'll be doing yours at 160 probably, now that you've done them at 75!
On another subject, IIRC, the only difference between the 651 and 691 is the stop on the butterfly shaft, so there may be a bit more performance available if you die grind the stop on the carby so the butterfly can open.

100 td said:

Tight as a fishes...., they are just wearing, can't
unhear rattling. Only have 190 or so hours, started ticking at ~50, 130, too noisy at 80 & 160 to leave. You'll be doing yours at 160 probably, now that you've done them at 75!
On another subject, IIRC, the only difference between the 651 and 691 is the stop on the butterfly shaft, so there may be a bit more performance available if you die grind the stop on the carby so the butterfly can open.

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I've re-checked my valve lashes after this last mow season, just cause that's how I do. When I had the bower housing off as well.

Yes the carb can be modded to run like a 691, (same bore & stroke) I'm fine with it as a 651, it is a beast. And easier life for mine.
And since I added the FX donaldson air box, it runs better than ever.

7394 said:

And since I added the FX donaldson air box, it runs better than ever.

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Yeah I need a better air cleaner

My Toro Kawasaki FR to FX Air Box mod https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/52096-Kawaaski-FR651V-FX-air-box-conversion

It ain't rocket science..

And if you go that way, which you should then buy enough convoluted tubing to fit the cleaner to the ROPS , not directly to the blower housing so it does not impeede removal of the housing to clean the fins or general access to the engine.

Or..... as I did, mount it directly to the blower housing, so blower housing removal is still a breeze w/Donaldson still attached.
Just need to remove hose at the carb, like they all do.

PS: And depending on your altitude, you may have to re-jet..... I did NOT have to do this on mine tho.

It's a bug bear of mine
Got 2 Great Danes in the run with 18Hp Commands
One has the filter mounted on a stand alone bracket so it is just 2 extra bolts.
The other has 3 brackets holding it to the blower housing so it is 12 nuts & bolts to remove the filter + 4 more on the housing before you can even think about taking it off.
So there is after all canister filters go on the ROPS if possible & fitted vertically .
FWIW the Engineaire brand filters are a lot cheaper than the Donaldson ones

7394 said:

My Toro Kawasaki FR to FX Air Box mod

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7394 said:

It ain't rocket science..

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Nah, I think SpaceX has that covered.

Good job on the install!

bertsmobile1 said:

It's a bug bear of mine
Got 2 Great Danes in the run with 18Hp Commands
One has the filter mounted on a stand alone bracket so it is just 2 extra bolts.
The other has 3 brackets holding it to the blower housing so it is 12 nuts & bolts to remove the filter + 4 more on the housing before you can even think about taking it off.
So there is after all canister filters go on the ROPS if possible & fitted vertically .
FWIW the Engineaire brand filters are a lot cheaper than the Donaldson ones

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I hear ya Bert, I designed mine to not have to remove any additional bolts at all for blower housing removal, just loosen the (1) hose clamp at the carb as every one needs to do to remove blower housing. If I had ROPS, I would still prefer the way I did mine. I think it looks like it came that way.

thanks on filter options.

100 td said:

Nah, I think SpaceX has that covered.

Good job on the install!

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Thank You Sir, I appreciate it..