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Hello everyone. I've tried doing some research but I can't seem to find my specific problem. Might be a long post but I assume it's better than "my engine won't start, what's wrong..."

I have a FR691V ~2-3 years old, bought used in great condition and have 0 issues with it. Not sure what the previous owner ran in it but I've always fueled it with ethanol free fuel. Two weeks ago I used the mower, ran like a champ, not a single hiccup. This past Saturday I hopped on it and when to start it like normal, throttle at 1/2 pulled choke, turned the key...nothing, just cranking. Let it rest a few minutes as I thought I may have flooded it. Tried without the choke, but it would only crank. Battery was good and cranked fast, no slow cranking issues. A bit of history, over the winter a mouse made a nest and decided that the spark plug wire off the coil was in her way, and chewed it in half. Nibbled small wire a bit but I taped it up well and it has run great for several months. I replaced both coils and spark plugs beginning of this year.

Here is what I did.
Pulled the air filter in case it was starving for air, cranked but wouldn't run except for an occasional pop/backfire.
Checked for spark. Didn't have a tester, but it seemed like a decent blue spark, both plugs.
Pulled fuel line to carb, had fuel and when I cranked it, pumped a flood of fuel.
Broke out the 'can of go juice' and gave it a few squirts, cranked for a bit and popped/backfired but did not run off the starter fluid
At this point I pulled off the fuel solenoid and checked it. When I turned the key it seemed to rattle a bit and pop down.
I then pulled off the carb thinking I had water in the fuel, pulled the bowl but no water.
Squirted carb cleaner in the orifices, etc.
Reassembled everything, hooked up a charger to the battery and cranked it and sprayed carb cleaner in it until it started.
Seemed like it fluctuated in RPM's a bit but picked up and ran like normal.
I began cutting the grass with only a slight rough running period when the blades engaged. Several passes around the yard, it was fine.
Decided to run down the ~800' lane and cut near the road. As soon as I went up the slight incline it began running rough and almost cut out. Dis-engaged the blades, backed up and headed for home.
Picked up and began running normal, so I was convinced I had water in the fuel/bowl. On level ground, I went to re-engage the blades and it died. After running for about 20 mintues, it would not re-start, only pop and backfire. I walked back to the house and got a jump pack, jug and carb cleaner. I pulled the fuel line at the filter and drained some fuel in the jug, not a drop of water and a nice steady flow of fuel. Hooked up the jump pack and used the starting fluid to get it running again. Seemed to run at normal RPM so I went for broke and cut the rest of the yard, about 1 hour of cutting, no issues at all. Before I shut it off when I was done, I ran it down to idle, ran nice, ran it up to full throttle, ran fine. Turned it off, waited 10s or so, went to restart and it would not re-start. I left it to cool down before covering. Spoke to my Dad about it as I could only thing it was a timing issue at this point, but being a 2 cylinder engine, I couldn't think how it could get out of time. He said broken flywheel key so I grabbed a puller and went home. Key was in perfect shape.
I tried to restart it and it seemed to start and run fine. I'm at a loss and hoping someone here has run into this issue and may know what is going on with it.
Thanks all!!

Read through information above especially Troubleshooting Guide. Use only OEM Kawasaki Replacement Parts.

one thing you said was that it ran rough up an incline. I would take a look at the fuel pickup if the fuel drains from anywhere but the bottom of the tank, and I would replace the fuel filter. Changing performance up an incline could mean fuel starvation. Or it could be as simple as your mouse friend ate another wire and you haven't noticed it yet. I had a sportscar that only hesitated on a left hand turn. Was sure it was the fuel - but nope, when it finally died for good it was an ignition wire touching the frame rail on left hand turns.

Difficult to start on starting fluid is usually either valves or ignition
As you have checked the key that only leaves faulty coils or bad valves
To check the first, remove the kill wires from the coils and try again with the starting fluid
NOTE
starting fluid should be very short shots as you can flood the engine easier on starting fluid than you can with the carb
IF it does not fire instantly then remove rockers and check both the valve lash and the single bolt that retains the rocker pivot to the head
I use a right angle screw driver to set the valve lash on Kawakasi engines as I find the eccentric adjusters a bit too coarse .