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Fluid color?
#1
N
normburns
N
normburns
I was doing a little prep work, getting ready for the new engine that is coming. I had to replace the line for the left tranny. Where it goes under the fuel tank, and then down through the hole in the frame... the line cracked, or got chafed, and let the fluid drain out. There is still fluid in the tranny, and it is a nice green color.
1. What color should it be?
Talked to the local Cub service dealer, and picked up a gallon of the Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus. Thar was a little spendy. THEY assured me that was what I needed, and that was what it came with. I called Cub, just to verify, talked with Ed. HE says that what they have been using is a 20-50 syn blend, and mentioned Shell Rotella synthetic.
The mower is a 2005 RZT50 (according to the manual), with a Briggs 22 intek. Does anyone have input on this fluid issue?
1. What is the proper fluid?
2. What color should it be?
3. When I refill the reservoir, is there a "burp", or bleed procedure? The res was empty due to the cracked line. The left tranny is not leaking, so I just need to fill the res, and the line to the left side. There are no leaks on the right, but I double check the line, while I am in there.
1. What color should it be?
Talked to the local Cub service dealer, and picked up a gallon of the Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus. Thar was a little spendy. THEY assured me that was what I needed, and that was what it came with. I called Cub, just to verify, talked with Ed. HE says that what they have been using is a 20-50 syn blend, and mentioned Shell Rotella synthetic.
The mower is a 2005 RZT50 (according to the manual), with a Briggs 22 intek. Does anyone have input on this fluid issue?
1. What is the proper fluid?
2. What color should it be?
3. When I refill the reservoir, is there a "burp", or bleed procedure? The res was empty due to the cracked line. The left tranny is not leaking, so I just need to fill the res, and the line to the left side. There are no leaks on the right, but I double check the line, while I am in there.
#2
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
A lot of the oils have different colors added...
Most all of the hydro systems are using a multi viscosity Synthetic engine oil anymore...
either mobile1 or Rotella T6 ... for the small amount you will be needing I would switch both sides out... after refilling, take the load off the drive wheels and operate it slowly, forward & reverse, it should push any air out from the system and into the reservoir, refill and repeat until it no longer needs any added... :smile:KennyV
Most all of the hydro systems are using a multi viscosity Synthetic engine oil anymore...
either mobile1 or Rotella T6 ... for the small amount you will be needing I would switch both sides out... after refilling, take the load off the drive wheels and operate it slowly, forward & reverse, it should push any air out from the system and into the reservoir, refill and repeat until it no longer needs any added... :smile:KennyV
#3
N
normburns
Thanks Kenny. Sooo, T6, eh? I run that in both trucks, and in the bike. The only "flavor" I have seen it in though, is 5-40. Is that okay? The Cub tech I spoke to said to use any good 20-50. I figure if I can find a synthetic 20-50... I'm in there. Otherwise, I will be looking at a Mobil 15-40.
To drain the units, it the drain plug somewhat obvious? I do not have a manual on this mower.
On another note, I need to increase my traction on the rear wheels. I do not want to add weight up on the frame (increased load on the axles/bearings), cannot find wheel weights, and I have had "liquid filled" tires suggested to me. I guess they do that with farm tractor tires? Do you have any ideas on that? Thanks again for the reply.
N
normburns
A lot of the oils have different colors added...
Most all of the hydro systems are using a multi viscosity Synthetic engine oil anymore...
either mobile1 or Rotella T6 ... for the small amount you will be needing I would switch both sides out... after refilling, take the load off the drive wheels and operate it slowly, forward & reverse, it should push any air out from the system and into the reservoir, refill and repeat until it no longer needs any added... :smile:KennyV
Thanks Kenny. Sooo, T6, eh? I run that in both trucks, and in the bike. The only "flavor" I have seen it in though, is 5-40. Is that okay? The Cub tech I spoke to said to use any good 20-50. I figure if I can find a synthetic 20-50... I'm in there. Otherwise, I will be looking at a Mobil 15-40.
To drain the units, it the drain plug somewhat obvious? I do not have a manual on this mower.
On another note, I need to increase my traction on the rear wheels. I do not want to add weight up on the frame (increased load on the axles/bearings), cannot find wheel weights, and I have had "liquid filled" tires suggested to me. I guess they do that with farm tractor tires? Do you have any ideas on that? Thanks again for the reply.
#4
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
You will be okay with T6 ... but if you want Mobil1 has a 15W50 with a good ZDDP...
I like Rotella T6, use it in everything...
On most of the small combination pump drive units there is no easy drain method, that's why most refer to them as non serviceable, but a fresh change of oil will extend their life...some have to be removed to dump the oil. Will removing the hose you were referring to drain most of the oil?
For liquid ballast nothing is heavier or works better than Rim Guard... Rim Guard - Liquid Tire Ballast
Post back with how everything works out... How many hours would you guess are on this tractor? It's only 6 years old, and already needing to replace the engine?
:smile:KennyV
I like Rotella T6, use it in everything...
On most of the small combination pump drive units there is no easy drain method, that's why most refer to them as non serviceable, but a fresh change of oil will extend their life...some have to be removed to dump the oil. Will removing the hose you were referring to drain most of the oil?
For liquid ballast nothing is heavier or works better than Rim Guard... Rim Guard - Liquid Tire Ballast
Post back with how everything works out... How many hours would you guess are on this tractor? It's only 6 years old, and already needing to replace the engine?
:smile:KennyV
#5
N
normburns
N
normburns
Quote: "How many hours would you guess are on this tractor? It's only 6 years old, and already needing to replace the engine? "
My thoughts exactly. It has 195 hours on it, and I thought it was a rod knocking, but it appears I dropped a valve. One would think it would last longer. I had been using Mobil Synthetic, 10-30, if I remember right, and the engine was quite noisy. My local shop suggested I use ND SAE 30, so I tried it. The engine was quieter, and lasted about a season.
My new engine is a Briggs 24, ELS for a John Deere. My intention is to run synthetic. Do you think the T6 would be alright in it? I run that in my dooley, and in my bike. I would LIKE something a little thicker, so I may go with Mobil 15-40.
As for the tranny oil, it was not contaminated before, and was working fine. I lost the oil because the line had gotten hard (brittle), cracked, and I lost the oil. I am thinking of pulling out all I can with a syringe, and then add then new oil. Then service manual I downloaded tells pretty much nothing about them, and the Cub manual tells even less, but I don't think they hold much oil, they can't... they're not that big.
My thoughts exactly. It has 195 hours on it, and I thought it was a rod knocking, but it appears I dropped a valve. One would think it would last longer. I had been using Mobil Synthetic, 10-30, if I remember right, and the engine was quite noisy. My local shop suggested I use ND SAE 30, so I tried it. The engine was quieter, and lasted about a season.
My new engine is a Briggs 24, ELS for a John Deere. My intention is to run synthetic. Do you think the T6 would be alright in it? I run that in my dooley, and in my bike. I would LIKE something a little thicker, so I may go with Mobil 15-40.
As for the tranny oil, it was not contaminated before, and was working fine. I lost the oil because the line had gotten hard (brittle), cracked, and I lost the oil. I am thinking of pulling out all I can with a syringe, and then add then new oil. Then service manual I downloaded tells pretty much nothing about them, and the Cub manual tells even less, but I don't think they hold much oil, they can't... they're not that big.
#6
K
KennyV
You will Only see the 5 wt. of Rotella T6 at start up in the cold of winter... when you want a better flowing oil .... You will be better with T6 in any engine...
As to the hydro systems, with those low hours you will have almost zero sheer on the oil in it... The syringe will work but it will be tedious.... :smile:KennyV
K
KennyV
....My intention is to run synthetic. Do you think the T6 would be alright in it? I run that in my dooley, and in my bike. I would LIKE something a little thicker, so I may go with Mobil 15-40.
As for the tranny oil, it was not contaminated before, and was working fine. I lost the oil because the line had gotten hard (brittle), cracked, and I lost the oil. I am thinking of pulling out all I can with a syringe, and then add then new oil. Then service manual I downloaded tells pretty much nothing about them, and the Cub manual tells even less, but I don't think they hold much oil, they can't... they're not that big.
You will Only see the 5 wt. of Rotella T6 at start up in the cold of winter... when you want a better flowing oil .... You will be better with T6 in any engine...
As to the hydro systems, with those low hours you will have almost zero sheer on the oil in it... The syringe will work but it will be tedious.... :smile:KennyV
#7
N
normburns
been married almost 34 years... I've got "tedious" down cold. :laughing:
N
normburns
You will Only see the 5 wt. of Rotella T6 at start up in the cold of winter... when you want a better flowing oil .... You will be better with T6 in any engine...
As to the hydro systems, with those low hours you will have almost zero sheer on the oil in it... The syringe will work but it will be tedious.... :smile:KennyV
been married almost 34 years... I've got "tedious" down cold. :laughing:
#8
N
normburns
Well, back together, and the grass is cut.
For the rest of this season, I used Shell 20-50 in the engine. This winter, I will give it a good drain, and refill it with the Rotella. I like the idea of a "break in oil". I also had some exhaust noise with the old engine. Not any more.
I had a little T6 left over from the last oil change on the bike, and I used that for the pumps. I installed new hoses, put protection where the lines go through the frame, and put in a little oil at a time. Then I got the wheels off the ground, and did the forward and backward thing for a few minutes.
I also installed an Odyssey PC625 I had laying around. It used to be really slow to turn, and it was not the battery. I put that battery into my "towing tractor", and it spins that one with authority. So, I suspect I had been having some issues with the old motor, but just had not picked up on it yet. Anyway, with the PC625, this new motor really spins.
Impressions: Quieter, and more power.
Do you know what the difference is, mechanically, between the Intek, and the ELS engines? The ELS seems smoother, but I can detect a little "V-twin lope" at low idle, so maybe it is cammed up a little bit more than the Intek was. The obvious difference is in the warranty. This engine has a one year for commercial use, and I don't the Intek had any warranty for commercial use.
This winter when I drain the engine oil, I am thinking of splitting the tranny cases (unless it is ridiculously difficult) and draining them, and see if there is a place where I could install a drain plug in each one. That would make servicing the tranny really easy.
N
normburns
KennyV;37717 For liquid ballast nothing is heavier or works better than Rim Guard... [url=http://www.rimguard.biz/ said:Rim Guard - Liquid Tire Ballast[/url]
Post back with how everything works out... How many hours would you guess are on this tractor? It's only 6 years old, and already needing to replace the engine?
:smile:KennyV
Well, back together, and the grass is cut.
For the rest of this season, I used Shell 20-50 in the engine. This winter, I will give it a good drain, and refill it with the Rotella. I like the idea of a "break in oil". I also had some exhaust noise with the old engine. Not any more.
I had a little T6 left over from the last oil change on the bike, and I used that for the pumps. I installed new hoses, put protection where the lines go through the frame, and put in a little oil at a time. Then I got the wheels off the ground, and did the forward and backward thing for a few minutes.
I also installed an Odyssey PC625 I had laying around. It used to be really slow to turn, and it was not the battery. I put that battery into my "towing tractor", and it spins that one with authority. So, I suspect I had been having some issues with the old motor, but just had not picked up on it yet. Anyway, with the PC625, this new motor really spins.
Impressions: Quieter, and more power.
Do you know what the difference is, mechanically, between the Intek, and the ELS engines? The ELS seems smoother, but I can detect a little "V-twin lope" at low idle, so maybe it is cammed up a little bit more than the Intek was. The obvious difference is in the warranty. This engine has a one year for commercial use, and I don't the Intek had any warranty for commercial use.
This winter when I drain the engine oil, I am thinking of splitting the tranny cases (unless it is ridiculously difficult) and draining them, and see if there is a place where I could install a drain plug in each one. That would make servicing the tranny really easy.
#9
F
fifthstring27030
F
fifthstring27030
Synthetic is not recomended in an air cooled engine because it will cause the engine to run hotter. Petroleum based oil will absorb heat and help cool the engine synthetic will not. It is fine in a water cooled engine because water cools engine. Tranny oil from Cub is 20w-50 in a synthetic blend. any syn engine oil will do the trick in tranny. Do not fill resevoir with oil only cover bottom of tank. It is actually an overflow tank and when oil gets hot it will expand and fill resevoir.
#10
K
KennyV
I have seen a lot of wrong information about synthetic oil... But this is a Doozie.
Where have you came across this??
The thermal capacity of mineral oil and full synthetic are close, they are effectively equal... BUT the Thermal conductance is better with synthetics... synthetic oil has a BETTER rate of transfer of heat than mineral oils... With the relative low temperatures found in internal combustion engines the heat transfer Advantage of synthetics in normally not included in the statistics, but synthetic oils do have an advantage in Heat TRANSFER...
You can find the exact stats in The Yaws Handbook of Thermodynamic Properties of Hydrocarbons and Chemicals....
Synthetic engine oils are not Always the best choice... There are some Economic reasons to run mineral oil in 'some' applications... But heat transfer is Not a reason to select mineral oils.... :smile:KennyV
K
KennyV
Synthetic is not recomended in an air cooled engine because it will cause the engine to run hotter. Petroleum based oil will absorb heat and help cool the engine synthetic will not.
I have seen a lot of wrong information about synthetic oil... But this is a Doozie.
Where have you came across this??
The thermal capacity of mineral oil and full synthetic are close, they are effectively equal... BUT the Thermal conductance is better with synthetics... synthetic oil has a BETTER rate of transfer of heat than mineral oils... With the relative low temperatures found in internal combustion engines the heat transfer Advantage of synthetics in normally not included in the statistics, but synthetic oils do have an advantage in Heat TRANSFER...
You can find the exact stats in The Yaws Handbook of Thermodynamic Properties of Hydrocarbons and Chemicals....
Synthetic engine oils are not Always the best choice... There are some Economic reasons to run mineral oil in 'some' applications... But heat transfer is Not a reason to select mineral oils.... :smile:KennyV
#11
B
benski
B
benski
I have seen a lot of wrong information about synthetic oil... But this is a Doozie.
Where have you came across this??
The thermal capacity of mineral oil and full synthetic are close, they are effectively equal... BUT the Thermal conductance is better with synthetics... synthetic oil has a BETTER rate of transfer of heat than mineral oils... With the relative low temperatures found in internal combustion engines the heat transfer Advantage of synthetics in normally not included in the statistics, but synthetic oils do have an advantage in Heat TRANSFER...
You can find the exact stats in The Yaws Handbook of Thermodynamic Properties of Hydrocarbons and Chemicals....
KennyV, I'm with you all the way on this one. We may differ on our brand of choice, but we do agree that synthetics are superior to conventional oils. There is a TON of misinformation and myth out there with regards to synthetic lubricants.