Fixing the $50 Pony (oil change to start)

I just got a Troy Built Pony model 13AN779G766 from my neighbor for $50. It didn't run but it does now... After charging the battery, draining and replacing the oil, and reconnecting the carb to engine hose (1/2" hose, I think is probably for vapor to the cylinder).

Anyway, it was smelling hot by the time I got done mowing some taller (12-18") grass and clover, so I figured I'd change the oil. The issue is that I don't now what to use or how much. I have 5w-30 synthetic for the car and the push mower, but nothing in the Troy built manual says what to use, and I haven't been able to find anything on the engine. Is there an oil filter?

It's a briggs and stratton 17.5 ic engine model(?): 31c7070154e1.

It did a good job and the oil didn't look real bad, but it smelled hot.
 
First thing I suggest you do is remove the upper engine fan shroud and clean the cooling fins. This is an air-cooled engine, and the fins of the flywheel force a lot of air inside that cover to go over the cooling fins.

When they are worked hard, they will tend to smell a little hot.

If you have 5W-30 synthetic it's a better oil than the usual straight 10W-30 that most engine manufacturers recommend.

When you are mowing keep the throttle on high, so the engine gets maximum cooling air circulation.
 
492934 Briggs filter. I use Kawasaki 10W-40 Small engines take a high zinc oil.
 
Last edited:
Also, the fins and guard look pretty much pristine. At least from the top. If there is something underneath that I need to clean, I can give it a shot, but I'm ready to run this once I have some oil in it.
 
Would that be better than the 5w 30? What is the difference other than the zinc content?
People often use the word "Zinc", but it is known as ZDDP which is a protective compound in the oil that bonds to the moving metal parts inside the engine.

It has been severely reduced in automotive engines because it destroys the operation of the catalytic convertors that are widely used for reducing engine exhaust emissions.

Antique vehicle oils and small engine oils usually have ZDDP.

There is lots of good information online from Bob the Oil Guy.
 
People often use the word "Zinc", but it is known as ZDDP which is a protective compound in the oil that bonds to the moving metal parts inside the engine.

It has been severely reduced in automotive engines because it destroys the operation of the catalytic convertors that are widely used for reducing engine exhaust emissions.

Antique vehicle oils and small engine oils usually have ZDDP.

There is lots of good information online from Bob the Oil Guy.
So I would want to use an oil specifically designed for small engines that has that in it, then? And what weight would I need?

If there is a resource for that info, that would be great. I just haven't been able to find anything for this engine specifically.
 
I recommend using SAE 30W, 10W-30 or 10W-40 (for hotter climates). It's made for their engines. Brand name is not that critical, but B&S has their own product for sale at most Walmart stores.

If you want the formulation specs, research the MDS sheet for the oil you think you will use.

Bob the Oil Guy and Lake Speed Jr's websites has a lot of information for your reading pleasure.
 
Back
Top