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Fire around the blade spacer spindle

#1

P

PeterJones

Hi,

I had smoke coming from under the deck of my Scag Cheetah yesterday and when looked underneath there was blaze around the top of right outside spacer spindle above the blade.

Anyone had a similar experience and what was the cause?

BTW the Scag is 8 years old.

Cheers, Peter


#2

G

Gcorron

It sounds as if you have a bearing that has decided to learn how to weld!! If it got that hot, it will NOT be easy to get out.

George


#3

B

bertsmobile1

You get lots of stuff wrapped around there
If dry enough the friction will cause it to burn
Remember the bades are fanning it with lots of air so perfect place for a friction fire .


#4

P

PeterJones

HI guys,

Thanks for the very prompt responses. Both make sense.

I'll clean out the bearing area for all three blades. Would there be an easy way to tell if it is a bearing issue, i.e. would the damage be visible.

TIA, peter


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Without the belt on the blade should rotate freely smoothly & quietly.
If you grab the edged there should be no see-saw type of movement
A tiny amount ( about 0,5mm to 1mm ) of up & down is acceptable to give running clearance but no rock.


#6

P

PeterJones

Cheers, Bertsmobile1 first job tomorrow.

Heading into summer (35 degrees on Sunday) don't want to start a grass fire.

Cheers,Petet


#7

R

Rivets

I would remove the spindle assembly and replace both spindle bearings. If they drop in easily your will also have to replace the spindle housing. At that point it may be cheaper to replace the entire assembly instead of trying to rebuild with parts.


#8

StarTech

StarTech

I would remove the spindle assembly and replace both spindle bearings. If they drop in easily your will also have to replace the spindle housing.
They suppose to be easily dropped in and they will fall out if the spindle shaft nut is not install.


#9

R

Rivets

Most I have found the outer race fits tight, with the nuts tighten the spacer on the shaft between the bears allows them to turn freely on the inner race.


#10

StarTech

StarTech

Most I have found the outer race fits tight, with the nuts tighten the spacer on the shaft between the bears allows them to turn freely on the inner race.
Considering these are two piece bearing sets, the inner bearing and race will fall out leaving the outer bearing in the hub when the spindle shaft nut and seal are removed. The only thing that slow the falling out then is the grease.

Hint: These are L44649/L44610 bearing sets that a preload must be set. Even though there is a spacer the outer bearing (cup) must fully seated prior to the torquing the spindle shaft nut.

Also note some call what you are calling the races the bearings and middle section the race. To me it is just a cup and cone set. Either way it is still a bearing setup.


#11

G

Gord Baker

Considering these are two piece bearing sets, the inner bearing and race will fall out leaving the outer bearing in the hub when the spindle shaft nut and seal are removed. The only thing that slow the falling out then is the grease.

Hint: These are L44649/L44610 bearing sets that a preload must be set. Even though there is a spacer the outer bearing (cup) must fully seated prior to the torquing the spindle shaft nut.

Also note some call what you are calling the races the bearings and middle section the race. To me it is just a cup and cone set. Either way it is still a bearing setup.
I didn't know that tapered bearings were used on mower spindles. Carefully grease the new ones with wheelbearing grease and torque to spec or until they just begin to show resistance to turning.


#12

StarTech

StarTech

I didn't know that tapered bearings were used on mower spindles. Carefully grease the new ones with wheel bearing grease and torque to spec or until they just begin to show resistance to turning.
I actually done spindles on Cub Cadet, JD, and Scag mowers that used tapered bearings. It all depends what spindle OEM used for their design as they can use ball bearings or taper bearings.

The posters here should at least know what they helping with by looking up the equipment IPLs but many here don't do it. They are just plain too lazy to do it.


#13

P

PeterJones

Bearing it 'was'. Just a melted piece of metal!!

My Scag has done just 800 hours so I presume this is an anomaly however should I replace this bearing only or all three?

TIA, Peter

PS

In looking for the Scag bearings on the internet I find ads for spindle assemblies:

Spindle Assembly for Scag 32" 36" 42" 48" 52" 61" 72" Deck 46631 461663 285-597​

Replaces OEM Numbers Scag 41001, 41007, 41008

Do these assemblies include the bearing, i.e pull one out and drop in another?



scag1.jpg
scag2.jpg


#14

B

bertsmobile1

Yep,
Do all 3
Hiding under the pulley is a grease nipple & a relief valve
Around once a month you should give the nipple a few strokes of grease till clean looking grease come out of the valve .
If greased regularly those tapered rollers should last almost forever.
The landlord has a fleet of 2000 series Cubs that are all better than 20 years old and get at least 1000hrs a year for the farm ones and about 300 for the house mower
Never changed the bearings but I have needed to remove a bit off the spacer to take up the wear .


#15

P

PeterJones

Thanks Bert,

Yes, they get greased regularly - every 10 to 20 hours I guess.

Any thought on the sprinkler assembly - do they contain the bearings? I'm more of a replacement mechanic rather than a repair mechanic!

TIA, Peter


#16

B

bertsmobile1

sprinkler assembly ?


#17

M

MParr

You are going to need a thin walled socket, if you plan on rebuilding them.


#18

P

PeterJones

Bert,

Oops, "Spindle Assembly"


Mparr

Yes, the area around the bottom nut is tight - I hadn't really taken note of that. I had better check out my socket collection. Thanks


#19

M

MParr

1 1/2” thin walled socket for the big spindle nut.


#20

P

PeterJones

Problem solved. Just had a look at the parts list in my owners manual and I see there is blow up box around the spindle drawing and arrow will a number which I hadn't noticed previously. Low and behold the it refers to part 461663 - which is the entire assembly including bearings. This is what my inner mechanic was looking for.

Thanks for all the very helpful comments from one and all. Merry Christmas from the Antipodes.

Cheers, Peter


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