MowerMark
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2014
- Threads
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- Messages
- 331
Of the two lawns, chose the larger and to do only 60% of the lawn. Fertilized and watered three days ago. Haven't mowed in a week.
Mix was 2.5 cc Tenacity (about 0.5 tsp) 15cc blue dye, 1.5 tsp of surfactant. I should have walk tested the lawn first for spraying tempo, but this mixture was put on a mere 400 sq. ft.(22 x 18) , more than usually recommended. My fault.
The sprayer unit was excellent (Round-up)... a nice even spray. Because the blue could not be seen, the brick edging was purposefully sprayed
HOWEVER:
1. There must be a better blue dye. In most places could NOT see on color change on the grass. On perlite or dead grass the blue is visible. Any suggestions?
2. Had to scrub my hands with bleach and soap to get off most of the dye.
WHY ONLY PART OF ONE LAWN:
1. Not near a fruit tree.
2. Away from the street
3. No new lawn seeding
4. To see the contrast of treated vs. not treated on the same lawn.
5. Can always spray the remainder, in whole or part.

Mix was 2.5 cc Tenacity (about 0.5 tsp) 15cc blue dye, 1.5 tsp of surfactant. I should have walk tested the lawn first for spraying tempo, but this mixture was put on a mere 400 sq. ft.(22 x 18) , more than usually recommended. My fault.
The sprayer unit was excellent (Round-up)... a nice even spray. Because the blue could not be seen, the brick edging was purposefully sprayed
HOWEVER:
1. There must be a better blue dye. In most places could NOT see on color change on the grass. On perlite or dead grass the blue is visible. Any suggestions?
2. Had to scrub my hands with bleach and soap to get off most of the dye.
WHY ONLY PART OF ONE LAWN:
1. Not near a fruit tree.
2. Away from the street
3. No new lawn seeding
4. To see the contrast of treated vs. not treated on the same lawn.
5. Can always spray the remainder, in whole or part.

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